Category Archives: Spain

Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006

($22, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta, rightly known for their stylish wines from Rioja, recently purchased a property in Rias Baixas, Pazo Barrantes, and are now offering an Albariño to the public.  A rather fuller style of Albariño–with more mid-palate texture and a stone fruit quality–it has less of the biting acidity characteristic of this grape. … Read more

Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005

($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region.  Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor. … Read more

Roda, Rioja (Spain) 2002

($42, Kobrand): Roda–the name comes from the first initials of the two owners’ names, Mario Rottlant and Carmen Daurella–is another new-wave winery in the Old World.  But this ‘modern’ style of Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo (94%), Garnacha (4%) and Graciano, has its feet firmly planted in tradition with impeccable balance.  … Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial 1978

($60, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta retains a small portion of their Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva for extended barrel aging.  Bottled in 1998, this wine spent roughly 18 years–give or take a few months–in barrel.  But since the interior of the barrel develops a thick layer of rock hard tartrate crystals over the years, it’s more like aging in a giant bottle. … Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Dalmau Reserva” 2004

($174, Maison Marques and Domaines): I am thrilled to see this traditional firm making this modern style of Rioja because it means they have no intention of changing the character of their classic Rioja.  Although Tempranillo is still the dominant grape (86%)–Cabernet Sauvignon comprises about 8% of the blend and Graciano makes up the rest–it has no resemblance to their regular Rioja Reserva. … Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2004

($26, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although mostly Tempranillo, this traditional–American oak aged–Rioja, has a little Garnacha and Manzuelo included in the blend, which I think helps account for the wine’s alluring complexity.  The producer purposely avoids the new trend in Rioja of more ripeness and new oak aging in this bottling (they have introduced another bottling to satisfy that side of the market), focusing in this case on harmony. … Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial” 2000

($54, Maison Marques and Domaines): The Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva, the flagship wine of the Marqués de Murrieta estate, is produced in only great vintages–the 2000 is the fifth since 1978–and entirely from the bodega’s own grapes.  A blend of exclusively Tempranillo and Manzuelo (Garnacha and Graciano have been included in other vintages), the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in American oak barrels for approximately three years. … Read more

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2001

($70, Grapes of Spain): It’s not often that a producer’s early wines from a new area are so outstanding.  Usually it takes time to discern the quirks of the vineyards and area.  But the 2001 Paixar has it all.  Powerful, but not overdone- — a mere 13.5% alcohol — it delivers layers of mineral-infused nuances seamlessly intertwined with succulent black cherry-like flavor.  … Read more

Marqués de Riscal, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 1999

($37, Shaw-Ross International): One of the great things about Spanish wines is that many producers age them for years–sometimes even decades–before release so the consumer has an opportunity to taste the complexity bottle aging imparts.  This 1999 Gran Reserva, the current release, still has tannins of youth, but mature leather and coffee nuances peak out from under fresh dark fruit flavors. … Read more

El Quintanal, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2005

($12, Fine Wine Imports): A small cooperative in Ribera del Duero hired Oscar Aragón, winemaker at the well-regarded Cillar de Silos winery, to manage the vineyard and oversee the production of this wine made exclusively from Tempranillo grapes. Rather intense with a healthy dose of minerality, as is fitting for wines from Ribera del Duero, it has unusual class for a wine of this price.… Read more