($22, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta, rightly known for their stylish wines from Rioja, recently purchased a property in Rias Baixas, Pazo Barrantes, and are now offering an Albariño to the public. A rather fuller style of Albariño–with more mid-palate texture and a stone fruit quality–it has less of the biting acidity characteristic of this grape. … Read more
Category Archives: Spain
Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005
($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region. Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor. … Read more
Conde de la Salceda, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2000
($43, Kobrand): Originally founded in 1647 in Navarra, Bodegas Julián Chivite expanded into Rioja in 1998 when they purchased the Conde de la Salceda estate. This, their top wine, is aged in small French barriques for 18 months and even at 7years of age, the oak influence is still quite prominent. … Read more
Roda, Rioja (Spain) 2002
($42, Kobrand): Roda–the name comes from the first initials of the two owners’ names, Mario Rottlant and Carmen Daurella–is another new-wave winery in the Old World. But this ‘modern’ style of Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo (94%), Garnacha (4%) and Graciano, has its feet firmly planted in tradition with impeccable balance. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial 1978
($60, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta retains a small portion of their Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva for extended barrel aging. Bottled in 1998, this wine spent roughly 18 years–give or take a few months–in barrel. But since the interior of the barrel develops a thick layer of rock hard tartrate crystals over the years, it’s more like aging in a giant bottle. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Capellania Blanco Reserva 2003
($32, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although the vast majority of wines from Rioja are red, there are also white wines, most of which were dismissed by many in the past because of an oxidative character. Marqués de Murrieta’s, made entirely from Viura, is fresh and plush with an engaging, creamy, stone fruit character.… Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Dalmau Reserva” 2004
($174, Maison Marques and Domaines): I am thrilled to see this traditional firm making this modern style of Rioja because it means they have no intention of changing the character of their classic Rioja. Although Tempranillo is still the dominant grape (86%)–Cabernet Sauvignon comprises about 8% of the blend and Graciano makes up the rest–it has no resemblance to their regular Rioja Reserva. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2004
($26, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although mostly Tempranillo, this traditional–American oak aged–Rioja, has a little Garnacha and Manzuelo included in the blend, which I think helps account for the wine’s alluring complexity. The producer purposely avoids the new trend in Rioja of more ripeness and new oak aging in this bottling (they have introduced another bottling to satisfy that side of the market), focusing in this case on harmony. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial” 2000
($54, Maison Marques and Domaines): The Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva, the flagship wine of the Marqués de Murrieta estate, is produced in only great vintages–the 2000 is the fifth since 1978–and entirely from the bodega’s own grapes. A blend of exclusively Tempranillo and Manzuelo (Garnacha and Graciano have been included in other vintages), the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in American oak barrels for approximately three years. … Read more
The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Chardonnay/Albarino 2006
($12, Codorniu USA): Codorniu, best known for their excellent Cava, also produces a range of still wines. The Spanish Quarter label, their latest entry into the market, is meant to be an ‘easy to drink’ wine either as an aperitif or with food. … Read more
The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon/Tempranillo 2006
($12, Codorniu USA): Olivia Salas, the energetic young winemaker for The Spanish Quarter wines, blends Spain’s signature grape, Tempranillo, with Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) to achieve this soft, ‘easy to drink’ red. Despite the seeming large proportion of Cabernet, it doesn’t dominate or mask the brightness imparted by Tempranillo.… Read more
Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) “Tierras de Luna” 2003
($30, Grapes of Spain): Inclusion of Cabernet and Merlot in this blend gives the wine a slightly New Worldish style, but the rich complexity imparted by Mencia comes through loud and clear. Good power and remarkable acidity and lift- — considering the number of flabby wines from 2003 — equals an excellent choice for hearty fare this fall.… Read more
Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) Reserva 2003
($50, Grapes of Spain): The exotic complexity of Mencia is more apparent in this blend. Attractive creamy oak is still evident, which is not surprising since the wine spent 2-plus-years in barrel. Polished, with good structure, this wine needs another year or two to come together.… Read more
Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) Reserva 2004
($60, Grapes of Spain): Don’t miss this wine when it reaches our shores. A wonderfully balanced combination of exotic smoky elements, bright fruit, a patina of oak and fine structure makes this wine a delight to taste, and more importantly, to drink.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Pétalos del Bierzo” 2006
($23, The Rare Wine Company): Made from purchased grapes grown in villages neighboring Corullón as well as from Palacios’ vineyards, this has a rich combination of floral notes and stony minerality supported by fine tannins. It carries the 14% alcohol effortlessly. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Exaltos” 2004
($27, Classical Wines): Bigger still than either the Albares or Baltos bottlings from Dominio de Tares, the Exaltos has attractive rusticity to boot. At this stage, the American oak is still apparent and the wine would benefit with another year or so of age to allow it to come together.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Albares” 2005
($11, Classical Wines): This 100% unoaked Mencia, made especially for the U.S. market, is a terrific buy. With lovely aromatics, fruit and little tannin, it has a Beaujolais-like style and sensibility, but with more substance. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Baltos” 2005
($15, Classical Wines): Made from slightly older vines and aged briefly in American and French oak barriques, the Baltos is a more muscular version of Dominio de Tares’s Albares. The oak doesn’t dominate; rather it imparts an attractive creaminess that balances the mild tannic structure. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2003
($46, Classical Wines): Made from 60-plus-year-old vines, this big and juicy wine is remarkably well balanced for a product of the scorching 2003 vintage. Nuances of tar, meaty overtones and black fruit are combined in this exotically flavored wine that is terrific to drink now.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2003
($78, Classical Wines): The P3, from a single plot of 100-year-old vines, has gorgeous aromas of minerals and black fruit. Plush and powerful, it’s nonetheless a graceful wine. The heat of the vintage probably explains a slightly stewed character to the fruit, but it still retains brightness in the finish.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2004
($46, Classical Wines): Brighter with better uplifting acidity than the 2003 Bembibre, the 2004 is nonetheless more awkward at this young stage. A captivating smoky, earthy nose mixed with tar and pepper in the finish suggests it will evolve nicely, and even after just 30 minutes in the glass, it softens. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Moncerbal 2005
($100, The Rare Wine Company): From a higher perch with rockier soil, the Moncerbal comes across as more of a ‘mountain’ wine than the San Martín. Cherry-like flavors fight through firm, pure minerality. Its hard edge, apparent at this stage, needs time to soften and allow its true complexity to shine. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Villa de Corullón 2004
($50, The Rare Wine Company): Despite packing lots of power, the Villa Corullón retains its elegance and class. Made entirely from estate grapes grown in vineyards scattered throughout the village, it has added spice and minerality complemented by freshness of fruit. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2004
($78, Classical Wines): Fresher with better balance that the 2003 P3, the 2004 P3 is a real success. It has the same alluring nose and delivers the same combination of power and plushness, but without a hint of over-extraction or over-ripeness.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) San Martín 2005
($100, The Rare Wine Company): With an annual production of less than 2,000 bottles, Palacios’ ‘single-vineyard wines’ are tough to find. Technically not sourced from a single vineyard, but rather several parcels all located on the San Martín hill, this wine is silky and plush with a fabulous nose of violets and spice. … Read more
Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2003
($70, Grapes of Spain): The 2003 Paixar has remarkable class especially considering the difficulties making wine across Europe in that hot dry year. It retains the uncanny combination of polish and power without being over-extracted or overdone. The family resemblance to the 2001 is clear.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) La Faraona 2005
($160, The Rare Wine Company): La Faraona is a single vineyard of just over one acre, and the highest in the village of Corullón. Minerals and a core of ripe sweet ripe balance the firm tannins that give it a clear ‘mountain’ character. … Read more
Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2004
($70, Grapes of Spain): Paixar’s hallmark of elegance combined with intensity is readily apparent in the 2004 vintage. Slightly fresher than the 2003, its minerality and succulence is sustained throughout an incredible finish. Polished fine tannins lend structure without being intrusive. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Las Lamas 2005
($140, The Rare Wine Company): Not yet bottled, this barrel sample marries the best of the Moncerbal and the San Martín. Floral aromas grab your attention and then a fabulous combination of a silky richness surrounding a mineral core holds it. … Read more
Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2001
($70, Grapes of Spain): It’s not often that a producer’s early wines from a new area are so outstanding. Usually it takes time to discern the quirks of the vineyards and area. But the 2001 Paixar has it all. Powerful, but not overdone- — a mere 13.5% alcohol — it delivers layers of mineral-infused nuances seamlessly intertwined with succulent black cherry-like flavor. … Read more
Bierzo: The Next Priorat, Only Better
Dismissed by many in Spain as a region suited only to producing bulk wine, Bierzo is poised to become one of Spain’s leading wine regions. The landscape, the focus on indigenous grapes, and the personalities involved convince me that still-obscureBierzo is destined for the big time. … Read more
Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Tempranillo 2005
($10, Freixenet USA): Made by the Ferrer family who owns the Spanish sparkling wine (Cava) house, Freixenet, Tapeña Tempranillo is an easy-to-drink, fruit forward, cheery kind of wine. 86 Michael Apstein May 22, 2007… Read more
Marques de Riscal, Vino de la Tierra Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Riscal 1860” 2005
($8, Shaw Ross International): Marques de Riscal is one of the leading Rioja producers. They have branched out from their Rioja home to create this Tempranillo-based wine from grapes grown in Spain’s vast central plateau, an area not well known for producing quality wine. … Read more
Marques de Grinon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) “Caliza” 2004
($22, Moet Hennessy USA): Marques de Grinon’s estate, Dominio de Valdepusa, is considered one of Spain’s vinous gems. It was Spain’s first Denominación de Origen (DO) Pago, or officially recognized single estate. (To date there are still only two other estates). … Read more
Osborne, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Merlot/Tempranillo “Solaz” 2005
($8, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): This two-thirds Merlot and one-third Tempranillo blend is a charming wine. Supple, but not soft, the acidity keeps it fresh so you can keep tasting the black-cherry flavors. If it were Italian, I’d call it a good ‘pizza’ wine, but since it’s from Spain, think of it as a wine for tapas. … Read more
Marqués de Riscal, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 1999
($37, Shaw-Ross International): One of the great things about Spanish wines is that many producers age them for years–sometimes even decades–before release so the consumer has an opportunity to taste the complexity bottle aging imparts. This 1999 Gran Reserva, the current release, still has tannins of youth, but mature leather and coffee nuances peak out from under fresh dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Mas Romani, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2004
($70, Eric Solomon): Made from the classic blend of 50% Carignan and 40% Grenache (with the remaining portion split between Merlot and Syrah), this succulent Priorat blends power and elegance. Not over done, as can be the risk with wines from this region, La Basseta is a stylish wine. … Read more
THE ESSENTIALS: Spain’s Priorat region flexes its muscles
Editor’s note: Beginning today, the Wine section will profile noteworthy wine regions across the United States and around the world, with an eye toward helping you in your wine-buying decisions. Look for the Essentials every few weeks in Wine.
In just 20 years, wines from Priorat have gone from obscurity to being the most expensive in Spain.… Read more
Castano, Yecla (Spain) Monastrell Tinto 2004
($7, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Yecla, a small area on Spain’s southeastern coast surrounding the town of the same name, is well suited for the Monastrell grape (a.k.a. Mourvèdre in France or Mataro in Australia) because it needs the warmth of the Mediterranean sun to ripen. … Read more
San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha “Las Rocas Vinas Viejas” 2003
($14, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Although Spanish regulators awarded the Calatayud region, about 150 miles northeast of Madrid, D.O. status (official recognition as a unique wine growing area) about 15 years ago, it remains obscure, which probably explains why such bargains as this one still abound. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja () Reserva 2000
($20, Frederick Wildman): This succulent, easy-to-drink wine from Spain’s Rioja region is filled with cherry-like fruit, supple tannins, and a little spice imparted by aging in American oak casks. It shows why Rioja remains the most recognizable name in Spanish wines.… Read more
Castano, Yecla (Spain) “Solanera” 2003
($14, Eric Solomon Selections): Yecla, a small DO (Denominación de Origen or DO is comparable to France’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, or AOC) on Spain’s southeastern coast is well suited for the Monastrell grape (aka Mourvèdre) because it needs the Mediterranean sun to ripen. … Read more
Castell del Remei, Costers del Segre (Spain) “Gotim Bru” 2004
($11, Eric Solomon Selections): Castell del Remei judiciously blends Ull de Llebre-literally, the ‘hare’s eye’ and the local Catalan name for Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Gotim Bru. They avoid the pitfall of making an ‘international’ wine dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, instead delivering a unique, spicy, yet refined wine. … Read more
Torremorón, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tinto 2004
($10, Ole Imports): Torremorón, a cooperative in Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s priciest and most renowned wine districts, offers this attractive wine at a gorgeous price. An under-appreciated asset of cooperatives is most of the members are poor and have not been able to afford to replant their vines. … Read more
Hornillo Ballesteros, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Mibal Tinto 2005
($13, Ole Imports): Made exclusively from Tempranillo aged without benefit of oak barrels, the Mibal Tinto shows the incredible depth of fruit flavors interwoven with minerality that Tempranillo planted in the soils of Ribera del Duero can produce. Try it the next time you grill a steak.… Read more
Bodegas Vinos Pinol, Terra Alta (Spain) “Ludovicus Red ” 2005
($10, Ole Imports): Spain is leading the way in providing distinctive wines at bargain prices. This blend of Garnacha (aka Grenache), Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon provides plenty of fruit flavors without losing its sense of balance. Supple and spicy, it has more to it than you’d expect from the price.… Read more
El Quintanal, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2005
($12, Fine Wine Imports): A small cooperative in Ribera del Duero hired Oscar Aragón, winemaker at the well-regarded Cillar de Silos winery, to manage the vineyard and oversee the production of this wine made exclusively from Tempranillo grapes. Rather intense with a healthy dose of minerality, as is fitting for wines from Ribera del Duero, it has unusual class for a wine of this price.… Read more