($55): Goldeneye, the Pinot Noir-focused winery in Anderson Valley, was founded in 1997 by the Napa-based Duckhorn winery. Their 15+ years of experience there with Pinot Noir shows in their wines, even this one, which is a blend from more than one site in the Anderson Valley. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – California
Dry Creek Vineyard, Clarksburg (California) Dry Chenin Blanc Wilson Ranch 2015
($13): Even though the grape variety is Chenin Blanc, Dry Creek Vineyard labels it as Dry Chenin Blanc for emphasis, which is appropriate. Fresh and vibrant, it’s a blissful harmony of fruit and zing. Think sushi or poolside. Buy it by the case for the summer.… Read more
Miner, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Family’s Cuvée” 2013
($50): This big and bold Napa Cabernet is surprisingly harmonious and not over the top. Full-bodied and robust, it remains balanced with a texture that alternates between chewy and suave. There’s a captivating savoriness and a lush, but not sweet, finish. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($32): With more creaminess than bite, Merry Edwards’s expression of Sauvignon Blanc is reminiscent of white Bordeaux rather than Sancerre. Long and refined, it’s a seductive wine with a glossy texture accented by a touch of electricity that reminds you it is, in fact, Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($29): Who knew that Duckhorn, well known for their brilliant red wines, made such an invigorating Sauvignon Blanc. Tension filled, it combines a pleasing bite with a hint of creaminess. A great ying and yang wine.
92 Michael Apstein May 17, 2016… Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2013
($43): Grgich Hills Estate consistently produces superb Chardonnay. And even the release of their super-duper Commemorative bottling has not detracted from their “regular” bottling. The team at Grgich Hills has managed to combine ripeness with enormous energy in this Chardonnay. It’s balanced, long and refined, with a hint of spice in the finish. … Read more
MacRostie Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): This straightforward Pinot Noir is bright and full of cherry-like fruit. A hint of savory herbal notes adds complexity. Mild tannins allow for immediate consumption. It would be a good choice for grilled salmon.
88 Michael Apstein May 17, 2016… Read more
MacRostie Winery, Sonoma Coast (California) Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2013
($40): One of the reasons I admire MacRostie’s Chardonnays is that their single vineyard offerings are sufficiently different from each other to make separate bottlings actually meaningful. They are unique wines. Contrast that approach with wineries whose “single vineyard” bottlings reflect a marketing strategy, not a difference in site.… Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2013
($35): Presqu’ile (pronounced press-KEEL) is already making a name for itself despite being founded less than a decade ago. This, their “basic” Chardonnay (though hardly basic at all), is energetic and refined, finishing with uplifting, lip-smacking citrus notes instead of sweetness. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Presqu’ile Vineyard 2013
($45): This, Presqu’ile’s single vineyard Chardonnay, is truly a singular wine. In a word, it’s graceful. There’s a luxurious creaminess, but it’s not in your face or over the top and it’s balanced by perfect lemon-y notes. Long and lacey, it reveals itself slowly in the glass. … Read more
MacRostie Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch 2013
($46): MacRostie is on a roll with their Chardonnays. Despite a stated alcohol of 14.6%, the wine is restrained, but not lacking in flavor or energy. There’s a touch of spice that adds interest. The overall impression is one of harmony and balance. … Read more
Jackson Estate, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2014
($28): This ripe (14.5%-stated abv) and toasty Chardonnay delivers plump melon-y flavors on a soft-ish background, even finishing a touch sweet. It’s fine as a stand alone — “I’ll have a glass of Chardonnay” — or to accompany spiced Asian fare. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2014
($32): With California Chardonnays and white Burgundies commanding high prices, it’s a delight to find an excellent one at a reasonable price. Jordan makes two wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and this Chardonnay. Both are consistently excellent. In a word — Okay, two words — Jordan’s 2014 Chardonnay is bright and rich. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Paris Tasting Commemorative” 2013
($93): Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, as much as anyone, is responsible for the world taking California wines seriously. In 1976, while he was winemaker at Chateau Montelena, he made a Chardonnay that astonished the world by beating out a bevy of white Burgundies for first place at a comparative tasting in Paris. … Read more
J Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cuvee 20 NV
($35): Ever since J Vineyards produced its first sparkling wine, it was clear that it was serious about the category. Extremely impressive, this cuvée is as distinctive as the label — J Vineyards’ stylish yellow J. The overall impression is that you are drinking a creamy green apple-like custard. … Read more
Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County) Pinot Noir 2012
($100): Hanzell, one of the pioneers in California with Pinot Noir, sometimes gets lost among the hoopla of the bolder wines made from that grape. Hanzell’s Pinot Noir is a study in how a delicate wine can convey extraordinary excitement. Savory elements are a wonderful counterpoint to the elegant fruitiness and by contrast, actually accentuate it. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($48): Merry Edwards is one of my favorite California Pinot Noir producers. One of her many virtues is that she’s not trying to make red Burgundy. Her wines express the climate and warmth of California without being overly ripe or heavy. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2013
($63): Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith Pinot Noir is proportioned similarly to her Georganne bottling. At this stage the black fruit is more apparent with the savory notes playing in the background. It has the same suave texture, with juicy acidity and well-polished tannins. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2013
($60): In addition to consistently making a fabulous array of Pinot Noir, Merry Edwards is a genius with her single vineyard bottlings. She embraces the Burgundian magic of terroir: How the same grapes grown in different vineyards express themselves differently in the respective wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2013
($65): With a different profile than her other Pinots — more red than black fruit intermingled with the hard to describe “leafy” character — Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane shows the virtue of single vineyard bottlings. Though all of the hallmarks of Merry Edwards’ wines are there: Beautiful balance, well structured but not oppressive tannins, and freshness, the wine is still unique. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2013
($25): Let’s hope that this example of lighter, fresher and more vibrant Chardonnay from California is truly here to stay. There’s still plenty of richness, but the overall impression is lightness and vivacity. The winery attributes the character of this stylish Chardonnay to their vineyard’s location near the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. … Read more
Dominus Estate, Napa Valley (California) 2011
($150): Dominus Estate has become a California icon in barely over 3 decades since Christian Moueix purchased the famed Napanook Vineyard in 1982. The first vintage, 1983, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot. Over the decades the Bordeaux focus has been constant while the blend has shifted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supplemented with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Murphy-Goode, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($26): This is the style of Cabernet Sauvignon that made California famous for that variety. It’s balanced and discreet, with haunting herbal influences that complement the ripe fruit flavors. Not overdone, over extracted or over oaked, the multifaceted flavors of Cabernet come through. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (California) “L’Ermitage” 2006
($46): Roederer Estate is my favorite California sparkling wine producer. Their quality can be traced to the philosophy of the Roederer Champagne house — the mother ship — and their ownership in Anderson Valley of sufficient vineyards to supply their needs. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2012
($26): This stylish Chardonnay shows restraint without sacrificing flavor. It’s plenty creamy, yet crisp. It manages to be full flavored without being heavy or ponderous. In short, it’s long and refined — and at a good price.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2015… Read more
Inconceivable, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2013
($25): A cutesy name and equally unconventional label makes me skeptical. But it’s important to taste. Here’s a clean and bright Chardonnay with a slightly creamy element and a hint of pepper-like spice that adds brightness. Thankfully, restrained, but not vapid, this is a refreshingly vibrant wine. … Read more
Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($27): It’s almost impossible to find this complexity in Pinot Noir at this price. Not that $27 is inexpensive, but it is for Pinot Noir, a whine whose quality tanks quickly as yields go up in an effort to keep costs down. … Read more
La Crema, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): This Russian River Pinot Noir is fresh and vibrant with supple tannins, which create a suave texture. Savory elements balance the fresh fruit notes. Not overdone, this Pinot Noir is an excellent choice for current drinking.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 20, 2015… Read more
Niner Wine Estates, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($35): This well-priced Pinot Noir delivers toasty black fruit notes complemented by savory nuances. It’s a hefty Pinot Noir, to be sure, but it is not over the top. A hint of sweetness and heat from alcohol peaks out in finish. … Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($35): You taste the Carneros pedigree immediately. Lively and bright, red fruit flavors dominate but don’t overwhelm. The unique character of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight — is apparent. If only the heat of alcohol didn’t peek out in the finish it would get higher marks.… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Meunier Estate Vineyard “Bacchus Collection” 2013
($40): The wines from Bouchaine, the oldest continuously operating winery in the Carneros District, according to their website, fly under the radar. I certainly can’t explain it given the stature of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which show why Carneros is a prized area for those varietals. … Read more
Reata, California (United States) Pinot Noir “Three County” 2013
($30): The grapes come from Monterey, Sonoma and San Benito Counties — hence the name of this cuvee. It’s a sweet and lush expression of Pinot Noir ready to drink now.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 20, 2015… Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2013
($60): Power and grace. That sums it up. Mike Grgich is the undisputed master of Chardonnay. He proved that almost 40 years ago at the “Judgment of Paris” tasting when the Chardonnay he made for Chateau Montelena beat out top white Burgundies for first place. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Miljenko’s Selection” 2012
($90): Grgich Hills, world famous for their Chardonnays, also produce stunning Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the first release of a specially selected Cabernet that comes from Austin’s Vineyard, which surrounds the winery in Rutherford. As you’d expect from a Napa Valley Cabernet, it’s full of flavor. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Stagecoach Vineyard 2012
($40): Those consumers looking for “a glass of Merlot” before dinner should avoid this wine. Those, however, who want to see for themselves the complexity that the varietal can deliver should embrace it. There’s a hint of leafiness and earthiness that, frankly, a Merlot-based wine should deliver to accompany and complement the black fruit notes. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2012
($75): Though Dave and Emily Miner founded their eponymous winery less than 20 years ago, they must be included among any list of the top tier of Napa Valley producers, at least judging from their current releases from there. This Cabernet Sauvignon has the captivating — and paradoxical — combination of an almost chewy yet very polished texture. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) “The Oracle” 2011
($90): The packaging — heavy bottle, name starting with “The”– had two strikes against before I even pulled the cork. But, as the saying goes, you can’t judge a book by its cover. This luxurious Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot is stunning. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2011
($185): There’s no question that Grgich Hills’ Yountville Selection Cabernet ranks with California’s greatest red wines. Once again, the winemaking team at Grgich Hills manages to convey great power without overdoing anything. Indeed, the marvel of this wine is its elegance, which is in keeping with the Grgich Hills style. … Read more
MacMurray Estate Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($28): This refined Pinot Noir focuses on ripe, but not jammy, fruit flavors complemented by subtle spice and enough savory nuances to keep it interesting. The mild tannins appear even milder because they are so polished, giving a pleasing overall texture. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($45): Merry Edwards consistently makes a stunning array of Pinot Noirs. Four recent releases from the 2012 vintage continue her streak. This one, a blend from grapes grown in several vineyards in the Russian River Valley, delivers a wonderful tension between ripe fruit flavors and smoky savory nuances. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2012
($54): One of the things I admire about Merry Edwards’s Pinot Noir is that the single vineyard bottlings are different one from the other. The 2012 Flax Vineyard is more muted and more fruit focused at this stage compared to the Klopp Ranch with less savory character. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2012
($60): The 2012 Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir really sings. The first whiff announces an exciting savory and earthy component that ultimately balances the ripe, but not jammy, California fruit component. It’s more concentrated than her Russian River Valley bottling, but the increased power is not at the expense of elegance. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2012
($57): At this stage — and I qualify it because this wine, like Merry Edwards’ other Pinot Noir, is still evolving even though bottled — combines attributes of her Klopp Ranch and Flax Vineyard bottlings. Engaging aromatics grab your attention immediately, while a seamless combination of bright fruit flavors and savory nuances hold it. … Read more
Artesa, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Albarino 2014
($28): There’s not a lot of Albariño, a white grape that makes an aromatic and energetic wine in Rías Baixas (an area in northwest Spain’s Galicia area), grown in California. Indeed, at last count (2013) there were just over 200 acres of the grape planted in the entire state. … Read more
Clayhouse, Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard “Show Pony” 2012
($40): Petite Sirah is, of course, misnamed because there’s nothing petite about it. And that’s its major attraction and, simultaneously, its major flaw. Many Petite Sirah can be overwhelming — boisterous and alcoholic and nothing else. Clayhouse Estate is robust and intense, yes, but it is balanced and not overdone considering the grape. … Read more
ZD Wines, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($55): Despite being one of the pioneer wineries in Napa Valley, ZD Wines, established in 1969 and named after the founders, Norman deLeuze and Gino Zepponi, flies under the radar of many consumers. Originally focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Carneros, they added a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon a decade or so later. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Fumé Blanc 2014
($14): It’s abundantly clear that David Stare’s decision in 1972 to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was brilliant. That grape brought — and continues to bring — acclaim to Dry Creek Vineyard. The 2014, labeled, as always, Fumé Blanc (an allusion to the Loire Valley’s Pouilly Fumé) is marvelous with a rich texture offset by grapefruit rind-like bitterness and delicate bite. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($18): Dave Stare, who founded Dry Creek Vineyard, always made superb Sauvignon Blanc. Though he is no longer making the wines, the tradition continues. For the first time, they are including two clones, estate grown Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, with Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
McManis Family Vineyards, River Junction (California) Viognier 2014
($11): This Viognier is an unbelievable bargain. Viognier is notoriously difficult to get right because it often comes across as a heavy wine. McManis got this one right. It leads with a delicate whiff of white flowers and then dances delicately on the palate, finishing with a bright and racy signature. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Paris Tasting Commemorative” 2012
($92): Miljenko “Mike” Grgich put California wines firmly on the world’s wine map in 1976 when a Chardonnay he made when he was Chateau Montelena’s winemaker beat out a bevy of white Burgundies for first place at a comparative tasting in Paris. … Read more