($30): Bouchaine Vineyards specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, grapes that thrive in cooler climates, because of their location in the Carneros region. Carneros spans the southern parts of both Napa and Sonoma and is cooled by influences from the San Pablo Bay. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – California
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Syrah Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2004
($34): The Syrah grape can deliver peppery or plummy flavors depending on where it’s planted. MacRostie manages to get both, perhaps because the grapes came from two different blocks within its Wildcat Mountain Vineyard. The result is a lovely plummy, slightly peppery Syrah with nuances of smoke and bacon fat. … Read more
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): MacRostie used a combination of its own Wildcat Mountain Estate and purchased fruit for this stylish wine. An alluring earthiness marries nicely with bright raspberry fruit flavors and is balanced by good acidity and mild tannins. It carries the 14.2% alcohol nicely.… Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot Vintners Reserve 2004
($18): KJ — as it is affectionately called in the trade — obtains grapes from all over California to fashion this classy Merlot. Not overwrought, the hint of leafy quality characteristic of that grape complements the bright red- and black-fruit elements. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Merlot 2004
($18): With so many disappointing Merlots on the market, it’s especially gratifying to find one like Clos LaChance’s. A lovely mixture of herbs and black fruit is immediately apparent in the nose and follows on the palate. A hint of creamy oakiness is well integrated and adds to the allure. … Read more
Buena Vista, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004
($21): This wine explains why Merlot is so popular. Attractively gamey and earthy flavors–not just fruit–come across in the nose and carry onto the palate and are balanced by supple tannins. Not a ‘fruit bomb,’ its layers of flavor persist throughout the finish.… Read more
Kendall Jackson, California (United States) Meritage “Vintners Reserve” 2004
($13): Kendall Jackson has a seemingly never-ending ability to blend wines from throughout California to achieve excellent value offerings. Comprised of almost equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot–with a touch of Cabernet Franc thrown in–this bottling has sweet fruit balanced by mild tannins and just enough complexity to keep it interesting. … Read more
Herzog, Edna Valley (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($26): Herzog has fashioned a Kosher Pinot Noir with delicacy and class. Don’t let its lightish color deceive you, because it packs plenty of spiced, strawberry-like flavors. 86 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2007… Read more
Calera, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Cuvée 2004
($28): Calera is one of California’s top Pinot Noir producers. This bottling comes mostly from vines–usually young–on Mount Harlan that produce fruit for wines that are meant for immediate consumption. This ripe, big style of Pinot Noir conveys considerable finesse and complexity in the form of minerality atop ripe black fruit flavors. … Read more
Calera, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard 2004
($40): A significant step up from their Mount Harlan Cuvée, Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir has far more complexity and better balance. Smokey ash-like flavors in addition to ripe black and red fruit flavors show its California–as opposed to Burgundian–origins and add to its allure. … Read more
Kendall Jackson, California (United States) Syrah Vintner’s Reserve 2005
($12): Kendall Jackson has clearly found the formula for producing attractive well priced wines year in and year out. This Syrah–plumy, ripe and nicely balanced–is easy to like. Smokey elements add complexity rarely seen at this price. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): The cool Carneros region spans the southern ends of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys and is well suited for Pinot Noir, a variety that thrives in cooler climes. Bouchaine’s is a delightful combination of red fruit-strawberry, raspberry-like flavors–with just enough earthiness to keep it interesting.… Read more
Clos Pegase, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2005
($33): Clos Pegase should be complimented for restraint with this stylish Pinot Noir. With more and more Pinots tasting like Pinot Syrah, it’s encouraging to see producers strive for restrained elegance rather than over-ripe intensity. Ripe raspberry-like fruitiness is the predominant impression, but black cherry nuances appear in the finish.… Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($28): Despite this wine’s ripeness, the overall impression of this wonderfully balanced wine is one of restrained fruitiness because the tannins lend structure often lacking in California Pinot Noir. Subtle cherry flavors are only one of the several red fruit flavors than come though. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vintner’s Reserve” 2004
($18): Sometimes large production wines with good availability are overlooked. But this one should not be. The grapes come from Kendall-Jackson’s sources throughout the state, hence the California appellation. This is very good, approachable–and stylish–Cabernet Sauvignon. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007… Read more
Migration, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) 2004
($30): This is sourced from the Anderson Valley outpost of Duckhorn Vineyards, the famed Napa Valley winery, which looked to the north for a site for their Pinot Noir production. They make two bottlings, Goldeneye, and this less pricey one. Made in a ripe, rich style with noticeable sweet oakiness, this won’t be mistaken for red Burgundy. … Read more
Bonny Doon, California (United States) Syrah “Le Pousseur” 2004
($16): This Rhone-styled wine from Bonny Doon is a little heavier and more alcoholic than their Cigare Volant, focusing more on black fruit as opposed to red fruit flavors. Not overdone as many California Syrahs can be, it retains elegance and a distinct peppery character, reminiscent of wines from the Northern Rhone.… Read more
Bonny Doon, California (United States) “Le Cigare Volant” 2003
($30): Randall Grahm, founder and winemaker at Bonny Doon, is known for his humorous labels as well as his talented winemaking. His Cigare Volant (flying cigar or flying saucer) refers to an ordinance promulgated by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a town in the southern Rhone Valley just north of Avignon, that prohibited the landing of flying saucers within the town limits. … Read more
Buena Vista Winery, Carneros (California) Syrah 2004
($24): The sweet, ripe, plumy fruit character in this wine announces its California origins, but the gamy and other more exotic notes suggest an Old World origin to this wine. It’s a balance that works well. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007… Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Cabernet Franc 2004
($35): Cabernet Franc, which comprises roughly 2/3rds of the blend of Château Cheval Blanc–one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines–is a tricky grape to get right. It produces wines with a distinctly vegetal character if it doesn’t ripen adequately. Fortunately, Clos LaChance got this one right. … Read more
Bridlewood Estate Winery, Central Coast (California) ‘Arabesque Reserve’ 2004
($24): Made from a blend of grapes traditionally found in France’s Rhône Valley, such as Syrah and Grenache, this wine is a California interpretation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with an emphasis on sweet fruit flavors buttressed by a lively spicy component. 86 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006… Read more
HdV Brings French Accent to Carneros
Here on the Eurocentric East Coast — remember we’re nearly as close to France as to California — I still am asked, albeit less frequently than two decades ago, whether America produces wines comparable to France. As my daughters would say, ‘Duh.’… Read more
Blackstone Winery, California (United States) Zinfandel 2004
($9): I wish California produced more of these inexpensive, yet satisfying, wines. Thankfully not a palate scorching, 16% alcohol Zinfandel, Blackstone’s rendition has the spice associated with the grape without the burn. It lacks the panache of a small appellation since the purchased fruit came from all over California, but it’s a delightful ‘everyday’ wine.… Read more
Rodney Strong Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2001
($55): A typical Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Rodney Strong’s 2001 Symmetry is a classy wine. Not overdone, the winemaker has ‘turned down the volume,’ allowing the layers of earth and mineral-like flavors to come through nicely.… Read more
Wattle Creek, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Shiraz 2001
($28): It should come as no surprise that the Aussie owners of this property have great success with Shiraz, which is considered by many to be Australia’s national grape. Rich and warm — as one would expect from California Shiraz — it is also meaty, exotic and smooth.… Read more
Atlas Peak, Atlas Peak District (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
($42): In my experience, it’s rare for a wine made from mountain grown fruit to have this kind of weight and elegance. But Atlas Peak’s winemaker, Darren Proscal, and its viticulturist, Tony Fernandez, Jr., have pulled it off with their 2003 Cabernet.… Read more
Rancho Zabaco, California (United States) Zinfandel “Dancing Bull” 2003
($12): Even allowing for the fact that the Gallo empire can draw upon vast vineyard resources strewn across California, it still amazes me that they can pull together a Zin this fine for twelve bucks. This wine is actually more interesting and useful than many counterparts now selling for upwards of $20 in the current Zin-crazed era, and though its balanced, integrated profile won’t jerk you to attention like many other bottlings, it will win your admiration with its impressive combination of bold flavor and seamless integration.… Read more