($20, Eagle Peak Estates):  Trivento produces a host of Malbec so be sure you read the label.  This plummy one, named “Golden Reserve” and with a black and gold label, is a big, ripe red with suave texture and mild tannins that makes it ideal for entering a crowd this summer around the grill. … Read more

($23):  Mount Langi Ghiran, best known for their array of stunning Shiraz wines, makes an equally compelling Riesling.  I know, isn’t Australia too hot for Riesling?  Much of the country is, but Mount Langi Ghiran’s location in the cool Grampians district of Victoria is ideal for that grape — and of course, given their reputation, for Shiraz. … Read more

($18, RWG USA):  This charming and restrained Cabernet is exactly the opposite of the heavy weight Cabernets coming from Australia or California.  This mid-weight wine delivers a seamless and balanced combination of spice, black, and red fruit notes.  The small (six percent) amount of Cabernet Franc in the blend announces itself by subtle and alluring leafy and herbal nuances and amplifies the wine’s charms. … Read more

($27, RWG USA):  Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that producers in the Margaret River they like to focus on what they do best — Cabernet Sauvignon.  He notes with great pride that Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon wins, on average, 75 percent of all trophies in Australian wine competition, despite accounting for only three percent of the Cabernet Sauvignon that is crushed. … Read more

($18, RWG USA):  The 77 moniker refers to 1977, the year Dr. John Lagan, an Irishman, founded Xanadu.  This light, fresh Chardonnay, weighing in at only 12.5 percent stated alcohol, will delight those who avoid the opulent buttery style of that varietal. … Read more

($27, RWG USA):  Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that the blend, two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and one-third Semillon, is the signature of Western Australia, especially the Margaret River.  He treats the varieties differently, “no witchcraft” as he puts it for the Semillon, simply tank fermentation. … Read more

($27, RWG USA):  Xanadu’s rich and luxurious Vinework Chardonnay bookends beautifully with their Circa 77.  It is plush yet not heavy.  It may not have the alluring minerality of white Burgundy, but it does have the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight, as the 12.5 percent stated alcohol reflects. … Read more

($50, Sovereign Wine Imports):  Roussanne, an important white grape in the Rhône Valley, has taken hold in Australia.  Though usually blended with Marsanne and other varieties, Yangarra uses it exclusively in this wine.  The grape takes its name from the russet (roux) like color of the mature grapes, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes. … Read more

($40, Quintessential):   I still remember my low expectations were the first time I tasted an Australian Riesling decades ago.  How could a hot climate produce a racy Riesling?  Well, it most certainly can.  Firstly, the whole continent is not hot, especially if the vineyards are planted in the hills or near ocean influences. … Read more

($20): It could be the screw cap closure, but whatever, this wine benefits enormously from 15 minutes of aeration before consumption.  Then it sings.  Dry and cutting, it has the enamel-cleansing quality of first-rate Riesling.  A firm racy edge makes it better with food, such as spiced Asian or Indian fare, as opposed to a stand along aperitif.… Read more

($225): It’s worth repeating:  Will Berliner, winemaker and owner of Cloudburst, his tiny estate in Western Australia’s Margaret River, turns out consistently superb Chardonnay, in addition to his stellar Cabernet Sauvignon, despite his lack of formal winemaking training. There’s a Burgundian Grand Cru sensibility about this 2013 Chardonnay:  Engaging toastiness that is replaced by minerality and fruitiness as it sits in the glass and blossoms. … Read more

($250): As I’ve said before, “Will Berliner is either a visionary or has beginner’s luck.  An American married to an Australian and settled in Western Australia’s Margaret River area, Berliner has no formal education or real background in wine.”  Yet he continues to turn out spectacular wines. … Read more

($34): Jeffrey Grosset describes his 2014 Springvale Riesling as a “soft rock” compared to the Polish Hill Riesling, which he characterizes as a “hard rock.”  It’s an apt comparison.  The Springvale Riesling is more floral and slightly richer, but retains the wonderful cutting dry edginess characteristic of Grosset’s wines. … Read more

($49): Jeffrey Grosset makes an array of fabulous Rieslings.  Despite the impression — erroneous, as it turns out — that Australia falls into the “warm weather” category for winemaking, the Clare Valley is home to exceptional Riesling. Jeffrey Grosset told me that they have such ideal conditions there for that grape that they have not needed to acidity the wines for the last 14 vintages since they transformed the vineyard to organic farming. … Read more

($60, A):   Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2015… Read more

($200): I first tasted Cloudburst wines last year and was enthralled by them.  I figured owner/winemaker Will Berliner either had beginner’s luck or was a visionary.  Now that I’ve tasted another vintage of his Chardonnay, Cabernet and, now, Malbec, it is clear that his talents are not explained by beginner’s luck. … Read more

($225): Will Berliner, who has already shown his talent with his sensational Cabernet and Chardonnay, has added an equally impressive Malbec to his line up.  Berliner included a small amount of Malbec in his Cabernet Sauvignon previously and clearly liked how it did so he decided to make a small amount of wine (5,000 bottles) exclusively from that variety. … Read more

($250): Will Berliner, owner/winemaker at Cloudburst says he cares “about clarity and purity.”  He found both in his 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, an extraordinary wine.  In keeping with the Cloudburst style, Berliner squeezes incredible flavor and nuances out of his grapes without imparting heaviness.  … Read more

($20): The Yarra Valley, just northeast of Melbourne, is a cool region, nicely suited for Pinot Noir, which can lose delicacy if the weather’s too warm.    Indeed, this Pinot Noir has a lovely lacey, delicate quality enhanced by uplifting acidity.  A subtle savory character comes through the fruitiness, adding complexity. … Read more

($20, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): This is the kind of wine that made Australian Shiraz famous.  It’s a little meaty, a little spicy, a little fruity and most importantly, not over done, alcoholic or over wrought.  I’d even say it’s graceful, word rarely used to describe Australian Shiraz, and when it is, it’s describing a wine that’s far more expensive than this one. … Read more

($15): Those who still think Australian Chardonnays are big and buttery need to try this restrained example from Western Australian, an area at the forefront of producing stylish and balanced wines.  With subtle green apple nuances, this linear wine captures your attention its vivacity. … Read more

($55, Quintessential Wines): A Bordeaux-styled blend of 70% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, and 7% each of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a tightly wound wine, full of flavor now but brimming with yet unrealized potential.  Definitely a candidate for long (seven to ten years) cellaring, it’s a keeper.… Read more

($21, Negociants USA): The cooling maritime influences from the Indian and Southern Oceans explain why Western Australian wines differ from those of South Australia, the country’s major wine producing state.  The cooler growing season allows grapes more time to ripen and develop complex flavors resulting in wines with great refinement, as exemplified by Vasse Felix’s stunning 2012 Chardonnay.  … Read more

($15, Negociants USA): The conventional wisdom is that Australia Chardonnays are ripe, big and in your face.  Well, it turns out that conventional wisdom is wrong in this case (and in many others when it comes to Australian wine).  Victoria’s relatively cool climate compared to most of Australian grape growing areas is readily apparent in this Chardonnay and explains the wine’s alluring and captivating delicacy and enticing creaminess. … Read more

($150): Will Berliner is either a visionary or has beginner’s luck.  An American married to an Australian and settled in Western Australia’s Margaret River area, Berliner has no formal education or real background in wine.  Nonetheless, what he is producing is nothing short of amazing. … Read more

($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Robert Oatley, the man who founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s best and most successful wineries, now makes distinctive and easy to recommend wines under his own name. His remarkable talent is easy to see in the quality of his second wines, which he labels Wild Oats.… Read more

($150): Cloudburst is a new venture started by Will Berliner, an American who’s married to an Australian.  He entered the wine business serendipitously after he and his wife purchased a beautiful tract of land and house in the Margaret River area.  … Read more

($17, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): One of joys of Robert Oatley’s wines is that they clearly reflect regional character.  This Chardonnay from the Margaret River region in Western Australia is restrained just as you’d expect from that appellation.  It has an appealing whiff of oak that complements — not overwhelms — the inherent fruitiness. … Read more

($85, Old Bridge Cellars): d’Arenberg has turned up the power here while simultaneously increasing the polish of this Shiraz.  A luxurious wine, its suave texture is all the more impressive considering its power.  A dense and dark earthy quality has replaced the flowery aspect found in their Laughing Magpie. … Read more

($13, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite my lack of enthusiasm for the cutesy names the Australians attach to their wines, there is no overlooking the quality and value of this wine.  It is a superb $13 Shiraz.  Surprisingly for the price, it delivers more than just fruit flavors — there are subtle and intriguing gamey and savory notes. … Read more

($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Simply put, this is a fabulous $13 Chardonnay. Will it blow you away with depth and complexity? No, but it’s clean and fresh with a delicate hint of creaminess. Its finesse and balance makes it stand apart from most of the sweet and heavy-handed Chardonnay you find at this price.… Read more

($29, Old Bridge Cellars): By blending a touch of Viognier with the Shiraz, as in the custom in France’s Côte Rôtie, d’Arenberg has created a more layered wine compared to their super-value The Stump Jump.   Both flowery and gamey, it is balanced, not bombastic. … Read more

($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon blend focuses on plumy flavors sprinkled with a subtle herbal quality.  Supple tannins allow immediate enjoyment.  It’s a balanced wine with enough stuffing to stand up to steak.
85 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

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($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This Shiraz could be viewed as a second wine to Franklin Tate Estate’s impressive Alexanders Vineyard Shiraz.  More plumy than gamey, it delivers clean bright fruit without being overdone.  Ready to drink now, it would be a good choice for burgers on the grill.… Read more

($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): The Franklin Tate Estate wines labeled Alexanders Vineyard are stunningly good.  I enthusiastically recommended their 2012 Syrah and am even more impressed by this Cabernet Sauvignon.  The immediately explosive nose prepares you for what follows.… Read more

($17, Old Bridge Cellars): With so much less expensive Riesling on the market, consumers might pass over this one. That would be a mistake. This bracing wine has a racy mouth cleansing zing and lots of minerality. Hints of spice and citrus emerge in its seemingly endless finish.… Read more

($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group):  Typical of many of the wines from Western Australia, this one shows power without being overblown.  What’s especially intriguing is how the wine captures both major aspects of what Shiraz has to offer–a plumy fruitiness and a peppery gaminess. … Read more

($20, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  When tasting the line of wines under the Robert Oatley label, it’s easy to understand how he turned Rosemount, the company he founded, into one of Australia’s most successful wineries.  This Shiraz combines the best of that grape’s dual personalities. … Read more

($17, Robert Oatley Vineyards, Inc): Though a relatively new label, Robert Oatley has been an important part of the Australian wine industry for decades.  He founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s most successful and reliable producers, before he sold that winery.  Judging from this and other wines in his line, consistency remains his hallmark.… Read more

($32, Old Bridge Cellars): d’Arenberg is known for their muscular and intensely flavored wines.  This Pinot Noir — aptly dubbed The Feral Fox because of its gamey element — fits that profile.  Thicker and more ponderous than a red Burgundy or Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, it is refreshingly distinctive and reflects its origins.  … Read more

($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Those who still believe that all Australian Chardonnays are over ripe fruit bombs will be stunned by this dazzling wine.  Bright apple-like nuances tingle the palate in this restrained style of Chardonnay.  You’re left with a zesty citrus tang in the finish. … Read more

($18, Old Bridge Cellars): Australian Rieslings, such as this one, continue to captivate.  The delight this wine delivers should come as no surprise.  The Watervale area of the Clare Valley is especially well known for top-notch Riesling, and Kilikanoon is an excellent producer. … Read more

($22, Old Bridge Cellars): Leeuwin Estate, one of Western Australia’s best producers, is known for their stunning Artist Series Chardonnays.  Well, they now are also known for their Art Series Rieslings, judging by this stellar wine.  Dry and stony, the citrus tinged finish lingers seemingly forever. … Read more

($40, Old Bridge Cellars): John Duval is no stranger to wine in general and the Barossa Valley in particular. As chief winemaker for Penfolds, he oversaw their entire portfolio of wine, much of which is made from Barossa grapes, and was responsible for Grange, Australia’s icon wine.… Read more

($29, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite its punch of ripe wild strawberry notes, this is a mid-weight wine with a charming rusticity. It grows in the glass with smokey spicy elements appearing after the fruit notes. The more you sip it, the more you like it.… Read more

($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Contrary to conventional wisdom, not all of Australia is hot. Indeed, the Yarra Valley in Victoria is quite chilly and, as this wine shows, perfectly suited for stylish Pinot Noir, a grape that doesn’t like the heat.… Read more

($11): Here’s a pleasant surprise. I was not expecting much from an $11 wine from Australia. Instead of some simple fruit bomb, De Bartoli has fashioned a refreshing and vibrant red with by blending equal amounts of Sangiovese and Merlot. Bright, cherry-like flavors are infused with subtle smoky notes.… Read more

($17, Moët Hennessey USA):  I’m always surprised that the SBS (as they’re known in Australia) wines aren’t as popular here as they are down under.  Cape Mentelle, one of Western Australia’s leading producers, made a particularly alluring one in 2011.  Its creamy luxurious side–Semillon speaking–is offset and balanced by a pleasant tang from the Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more

($17, American Wine Distributors):  The Clare Valley is a prime area for Riesling and Wakefield is one the region’s best producers.  Owned by the Taylor family and sold under the name Taylor in Australia, they use the Wakefield label in the US because of trademark issues. … Read more

($50, American Wine Distributors):  Wakefield is best known for their stellar Rieslings.  After tasting this Cabernet and the Wakefield Shiraz (also reviewed this week), I’m sure that these varieties will be giving Riesling a run for its money.  St. Andrews is the name Wakefield uses for their top tier of wines and this Cabernet Sauvignon certainly deserves to be included. … Read more