($17, Robert Oatley Vineyards, Inc): 
Though a relatively new label, Robert Oatley has been an important part of the Australian wine industry for decades. He founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s most successful and reliable producers, before he sold that winery. Judging from this and other wines in his line, consistency remains his hallmark.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2012
($13, Alamos USA): 
This Malbec combines juicy succulent black fruit-like flavors with soft tannins that lend just the right amount of structure. Big, but not overpowering, this fleshy wine is a great value. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for with its price. … Read more
d’Arenberg, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Noir “The Feral Fox” 2011
($32, Old Bridge Cellars): 
d’Arenberg is known for their muscular and intensely flavored wines. This Pinot Noir — aptly dubbed The Feral Fox because of its gamey element — fits that profile. Thicker and more ponderous than a red Burgundy or Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, it is refreshingly distinctive and reflects its origins. … Read more
Louis M. Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($30): With supple tannins, Martini’s Alexander Valley Cabernet is velvety in texture. There’s far more going on in the glass compared to the Sonoma County bottling, which arguably could reflect a vintage difference. Engaging minty nuances complement its ripe dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Montes, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Alpha” 2010
($18, T.G.I.C. Importers): Aurelio Montes was one of the pioneers of the premium wine industry in Chile when he and his partners founded the Montes winery in the late 1980s. His dogged determination has helped draw the world’s attention to Chile as a source of upscale wines. … Read more
Montes, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Apalta “Alpha M” 2010
($80, T.G.I.C. Importers): 
With their “M” bottling, which they don’t produce every year, Montes has consistently demonstrated the heights that Chilean red Bordeaux blends can achieve. Indeed, the M could stand for “marvelous” or “magnificent.” It explodes on the palate delivering dense ripe and savory components that play off beautifully against one another. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir “Reserva Especial” 2012
($15, Vineyard Brands): Despite coming from the Casablanca Valley, a cool coastal area of Chile where you’d expect more delicacy in Pinot Noir, this one is a riper, more intensely styled wine with hints of bacon fat. Tannins are similarly ripe and supple, which means it’s a good choice for current drinking. … Read more
Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia) Chardonnay “Aradia” 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Those who still believe that all Australian Chardonnays are over ripe fruit bombs will be stunned by this dazzling wine. Bright apple-like nuances tingle the palate in this restrained style of Chardonnay. You’re left with a zesty citrus tang in the finish. … Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir 2011
($19): It’s hard to find drinkable Pinot Noir under $20 a bottle, which is why it was such a pleasant surprise to run across Erath’s. Drawn from grapes grown all over Oregon, this mid-weight wine emphasizes delicate red fruit nuances. Hints of spice add complexity and prevent it from seeming like a boring, one-trick-pony of a wine. … Read more
Mirassou, California (United States) Pinot Noir 2011
($12): This lightweight, fruity Pinot Noir conveys plenty of sweet cherry-like flavors without aggressive tannins. Its supple structure allows you to enjoy it chilled.
84 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013… Read more
Kilikanoon, Watervale (Clare Valley, Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2012
($18, Old Bridge Cellars): Australian Rieslings, such as this one, continue to captivate. The delight this wine delivers should come as no surprise. The Watervale area of the Clare Valley is especially well known for top-notch Riesling, and Kilikanoon is an excellent producer. … Read more
Cono Sur, San Antonio Valley (Chile) Chardonnay 2012
($12, Vineyard Brands): 
Chile’s geography–a long narrow strip of country protected by the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Andes on the other–explains why it’s a leader in organic agriculture, including grapes and wine. Cono Sur trumpets that this wine was made from organically grown grapes in four places, twice on the capsule and twice more on the label, just in case you might not get it. … Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Riesling “Art Series” 2012
($22, Old Bridge Cellars): Leeuwin Estate, one of Western Australia’s best producers, is known for 
their stunning Artist Series Chardonnays. Well, they now are also known for their Art Series Rieslings, judging by this stellar wine. Dry and stony, the citrus tinged finish lingers seemingly forever. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Bourgogne Gamay (France) 2011
($16, Louis Latour USA): Bourgogne Gamey is a newly created appellation for Burgundy with the 2011 vintage that allows producers to blend Gamay grown in the crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais with Pinot Noir. It differs and is a step above the longstanding and locally popular appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains because the Gamay for Passetoutgrains can come from anywhere within Beaujolais.… Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Kidnappers Vineyard 2011
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Craggy Range’s Kidnappers Vineyard shows the appeal of unoaked Chardonnay. Lean and lithe, its crispness and verve reflects the proximity of the vineyard to the cooling influences of the sea. While many unoaked Chardonnay’s are hollow, this one is not. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2011
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This bargain Bordeaux blend is the 2nd wine of Craggy Range’s Sophia, their red Bordeaux flag ship. Winemaker Steve Smith says they’ve identified areas of their Gimblett Gravels vineyard that produce grapes that lack the character they are seeking for Sophia. … Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Côtes de Provence Rosé (Provence, France) 2012
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): The foil disc on top hides the closure so it’s not quite clear whether you need a corkscrew. You don’t. Once you remove the plastic neck label, which takes the foil disc with it, an easy-to-remove glass stopper twists off. … Read more
The Four Graces, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2012
($20): The Black family purchased an existing vineyard in the Dundee Hills in 2003, immediately started to transform it and named the winery after their four daughters. This graceful (no pun intended) Pinot Gris shows the beauty of that varietal and is a classic example of it. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc “Reserva Especial” 2012
($12): Chile’s Casablanca Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean with its cooling influences has made it a popular source for lively white wines that focus on freshness. And this Sauvignon Blanc does just that. A grapefruit-like zing and mouth cleansing acidity makes it a good choice for this summer to accompany lighter seafood dishes. … Read more
Cougar Crest Estate Winery, Walla Walla (Washington) Syrah 2008
($34): Founded only in 2001, Cougar Crest Estate Winery is a name worth remembering, at least judging from this stylish Syrah. Syrah has gotten bad press recently with many critics lamenting its failure to deliver distinctiveness. Not so with this one. … Read more
Herdade do Esporão, Alentejo (Portugal) “Esporão” Reserva 2009
($90, Aidil Wines & Liquors): This is the kind of red wine people love. It’s robust, yet not tannic or hard. A blend Portuguese grapes, Aragones, Trincadiera, Alicante Bouschet with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in, it delivers spice and herbal notes that complement the deep black fruit flavors. … Read more
Taylor Fladgate, Porto (Portugal) 2011
($80, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Nature was kind to the Douro Valley in 2011 delivering perfect weather throughout the growing season. For most producers, it was an easy decision to “declare” a vintage. Taylor Fladgate’s 2011 is sensational. Tightly wound and mineraly, it’s surprisingly approachable and engaging already. … Read more
Fonseca, Porto (Portugal) 2011
($80, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
At a Kobrand-sponsored tasting of 2011 vintage Ports, tasters would be asking one another which they preferred, Taylor’s or Fonseca’s. What’s amazing to me is how different and distinctive these two Ports are, despite being owned by the same family run company (The Fladgate Partnership, where David Guimaraens is wine director for both houses).… Read more
Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2011
($20, Maisons Marques & Domaines): 
It should come as no surprise that Pazo Barrantes is a reliable label for an Albariño because that estate was founded and is still owned by the Creixell family, which also owns the exalted Rioja estate, Marqués de Murrieta. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Te Muna Road Vineyard 2011
($46, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Craggy Range recently held ten-year vertical tasting, from their first vintage in 2002 to the 2011, of their Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir. The tasting demonstrated that Craggy Range is–without doubt–one of New Zealand’s top producers of that variety. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace Vendange Tardive (France) Gewürztraminer 2007
($40, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Hugel is the giant among producers of Vendange Tardive (literally, late harvest) wine. The best ones, such as this 2007 (sold in a 375 ml bottle), impress with their concentration, elegance and acidity rather than their sweetness.… Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewürztraminer 2012
($29, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): 
Hugel is one of Alsace’s best and most consistent producers. Their wines always accurately reflect the varietal and the origin of the grapes. This one, a blend from a variety of vineyards, is a classic example of Alsace Gewürztraminer. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling 2012
($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, this house’s brand manager for the United States, summed up this Riesling, “It may not be perfect, but it is how we want it.” I would disagree slightly–it is perfect for the price. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée des Amours” 2010
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, Etienne’s enthusiastic son, loves the 2010 vintage because it gave them great ripeness without losing acidity. This Pinot Blanc, one of Hugel’s best ever, reflects that assessment. It has unusual depth for Pinot Blanc, and invigorating acidity keeps in fresh and lively. … Read more
Bodega DiamAndes, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) “Perlita” 2011
($13, Henry Wine Group): This “entry level” wine from DiamAndes, a Malbec (80%) Syrah blend is a good choice for this summer’s BBQs. The additional of Syrah to the blend and the talents of the winemaking team means this is not another “fruit bomb” Malbec.… Read more
Bodega DiamAndes, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2010
($20, Henry Wine Group): 
The Bonnie family who owns the Cru Classé Graves property, Château Malartic-Lagravière, have shown, with their project in Argentina, that their talents are not limited to Bordeaux. Their Argentine wines are a unique and stunning combination of New World fruitiness and Old World structure.… Read more
Château des Labourons, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2011
($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais. The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” … Read more
Craggy Range, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2012
($22, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Craggy Range specializes in single vineyard wines. I’m not familiar enough with vineyard-to-vineyard differences among New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to know whether the beauty of this one stems from the vineyard or the producer. Whatever the reason, it’s a stunning wine. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Le Sol” 2009
($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Everyone these days knows that New Zealand is home to refreshing and zesty Sauvignon Blanc. It’s no secret that Martinborough and Central Otago are giving Burgundy a run for its money with their Pinot Noir. But Syrah? … Read more
La Bastide Blanche, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2012
($21, Weygandt Metzler): Bandol, a small, but important, appellation in Provence on the Mediterranean just east of Marseille, produces mostly robust red wines primarily from Mourvèdre. The appellation allows production of Rosé as well. This one, a blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache, combines the refreshing aspect of rosé with real substance that comes from Mourvèdre. … Read more
De Martino, Maipo Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($14, Opici): Chile’s location, a long thin country squeezed between the natural barriers
of the Pacific Ocean and the Andes, is well known for their pesticide-free organic agriculture. So it’s no surprise that we see lots of wines “made with organic grapes” coming from that country. … Read more
Cono Sur, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Viognier “Bicicleta” 2012
($12, Vineyard Brands): Viognier can be a difficult grape to vinify because the window between ripeness and over ripeness is narrow. Cono Sur has succeeded admirably with this attractive, bargain-priced rendition. They’ve captured the spice and floral nature of Viognier while avoiding heaviness and warmth of excessive alcohol. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2010
($30): More tannic and muscular than Chateau Ste. Michelle’s very good Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet, their Cold Creek Vineyard bottling is mineraly and dense. It is far less approachable at this stage than their Canoe Ridge Estate, which makes it a good candidate for a couple of more years in the bottle before pulling the cork.… Read more
John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia) “Plexus” 2010
($40, Old Bridge Cellars): John Duval is no stranger to wine in general and the Barossa Valley in particular. As chief winemaker for Penfolds, he oversaw their entire portfolio of wine, much of which is made from Barossa grapes, and was responsible for Grange, Australia’s icon wine.… Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
($53): I
usually avoid describing something by what it isn’t. But this time, I’ll break my own rule. Jordan’s 2009 Cabernet is not a big, bombastic, overblown and over ripe California Cabernet. Instead it’s restrained yet forcefully flavorful, the style that Jordan has adopted since its inception 40 years ago.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($11): Chateau Ste. Michelle has a way with their “entry level” wines. Year in and year out their Columbia Valley Riesling is easy to recommend. So too is this Sauvignon Blanc. A beautiful combination of subtle tropical fruit offset by just the right amount of bite and verve keeps you coming back for more.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard 2012
($18): Although Chateau Ste. Michelle does a consistently fine job with its entire range of varietal wines, they are especially talented when it comes to Riesling. This one is pure and precise. Its subtle sweetness is underpinned by riveting acidity, making it a superb choice either as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany full flavored Asian cuisine.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hill (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2010
($30): Horse Heaven Hills, one of Washington’s most prestigious areas for wine, is a name worth remembering. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cabernet from there is dense and smoky with a rich, almost chocolate-like nuance. It combines power and succulence without overdoing it.… Read more
Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($15): Most of the fruit for this attractively priced wine comes from Paso Robles, a warm region becoming well known as the place for Cabernet Sauvignon. It conveys a masterful combination of Bing cherry flavors and a subtle, but balancing, hint of leafiness that adds an intriguing “not just fruit” aspect.… Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2010
($35): This substantial Pinot Noir delivers ripe red and black fruit flavors mixed with a healthy dollop of spice. A vibrant freshness, likely reflecting the cooler Carneros climate, enlivens the palate. This is a bold Pinot Noir, but not over the top, weighing in with a modest, by today’s standards, 13.9% stated alcohol.… Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache The Derelict Vineyard 2009
($29, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite its punch of ripe wild strawberry notes, this is a mid-weight wine with a charming rusticity. It grows in the glass with smokey spicy elements appearing after the fruit notes. The more you sip it, the more you like it.… Read more
Joel Gott, California (United States) Red wine 2011
($14): Joel Gott is what the French call a négociant. He buys grapes from growers all over the state and puts together the blend he likes. This one, simply labeled, Red Wine, comes from a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, grown in both Monterey and Knights Valley.… Read more
Joel Gott, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon “815” 2010
($14): Gott purchased grapes from five different areas — Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Lodi, Paso Robles and Lake County — to put together this beautifully balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. He has managed to combine lush black fruit nuances with mouth-watering acidity without going over the top with either.… Read more
Fracture, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Languedoc – Roussillon, France) Grenache “Shatter” 2011
($29, USA Wine West): The label says it all. This bombastic Grenache-based wine is massive and intense, but it not hot or rough, carrying, as Grenache often does, its 15.9% stated alcohol remarkably well. For all its ripeness, it actually has a pleasantly bitter, not sweet, finish.… Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2010
($27): Sweet lush fruit is the clear focus of this Pinot Noir. A hint of oak ands spice and reinforces its intense style. It tastes riper than its 13.5% stated alcohol suggests. Supple smooth tannins allow for immediate enjoyment–even without food.… Read more