Category Archives: Reviews

Mas de Daumas Gassac, IGP Pays d’Hérault (Languedoc, France) “Moulin de Gassac Guilhem” 2011

($13, Polaner): Mas de Daumas Gassac, dubbed the Lafite of the Languedoc by France’s prestigious Gault et Millau guide in 1982, has been producing this value packed every day kind of wine since the early 1990s.  It is not a second wine by any means since the blend–Syrah (40%), Grenache (25%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Carignan–bears no resemblance to their top wine, which is primarily (80%) Cabernet Sauvignon.  … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2009

($30): A big step up from their very good Columbia Valley Cabernet, this single vineyard bottling from Chateau Ste Michelle is worth the premium. Although it’s more concentrated, its real virtue lies in the plethora of flavors it delivers. To complement the black fruit, there’s minerality and hints of earth that impart a savory component.… Read more

Maison des Terroirs Vivants, IGP Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Syrah “La Marouette” 2012

($15, The Organic Wine Company): An incredible value, this $15 Syrah manages to combine the attractive slightly beefy and the ripe plumy components that Syrah can deliver. It’s a masterful mix, especially at the price. Certainly bold enough for wintertime fare–or steaks on the grill (summer will eventually be here)–it’s not overdone or alcoholic.… Read more

Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Estate 2009

($30): The Michael Mondavi Family Estate, who produces this wine, was founded after the family lost control of the Robert Mondavi winery. Though Michael, one of the sons of legendary winemaker Robert (and an extraordinarily talented winemaker in his own right), is involved in a series of projects, such as the wines under the Isabel Mondavi label, his son Rob Jr.… Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Waussie” 2011

($22): Chateau Ste. Michelle, a world leader for Riesling, has done it again with this distinctive one. Super-talented Australian winemaker, Wendy Stuckey, calls it “Waussie” (Washington + Australia) Riesling because of its crisp Aussie style. I call it terrific. Citrus-infused and dry (appropriately indicated on the back label with the International Riesling Foundations [IRF] scale), its riveting acidity may overwhelm you if you sip as an aperitif.… Read more

Giraudon, Bourgogne Chitry (Burgundy, France) “Cépage Pinot Noir” 2010

($20, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Most wines from this little known appellation between Chablis and Auxerre, are simply labeled Bourgogne Rouge because virtually no one has heard of Chitry. Giraudon reminds us–with the moniker Cépage Pinot Noir–that this wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir because regulations allow a small amount of César, an obscure grape, in the blend.… Read more

Domaine du Haut Bourg, Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Muscadet 2011

($11, Polaner Selections): A small appellation between a lake and the Loire River, Côtes de Grandlieu is a much smaller and less well known subregion of Muscadet compared to Sèvre et Maine. Its location between two bodies of water entails a slightly warmer climate and explains why the wines tend to be just a touch riper than most Muscadet.… Read more

Alex Gambal, Grand Cru Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2009

($175, Schneiders of Capital Hill): The 2009 vintage produced excellent red Burgundies. This is one of them. Though quite ripe, reflective of the warmth of the vintage, it has not lost its focus or identity. This Clos Vougeot captures the minerality and floral aspect of that Grand Cru vineyard and has plenty of structure beneath the ripeness and to assure a long life.… Read more

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2010

($75, Jeanne Marie de Champs): This vineyard surrounds the Château de la Maltroye and is owned solely by them, somewhat of a rarity in Burgundy since most vineyards have been divided and subdivided among multiple owners over the centuries. Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of red wine from Chassagne-Montrachet because they can be green and rustic.… Read more