($30): Horse Heaven Hills, one of Washington’s most prestigious areas for wine, is a name worth remembering. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cabernet from there is dense and smoky with a rich, almost chocolate-like nuance. It combines power and succulence without overdoing it.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($15): Most of the fruit for this attractively priced wine comes from Paso Robles, a warm region becoming well known as the place for Cabernet Sauvignon. It conveys a masterful combination of Bing cherry flavors and a subtle, but balancing, hint of leafiness that adds an intriguing “not just fruit” aspect.… Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2010
($35): This substantial Pinot Noir delivers ripe red and black fruit flavors mixed with a healthy dollop of spice. A vibrant freshness, likely reflecting the cooler Carneros climate, enlivens the palate. This is a bold Pinot Noir, but not over the top, weighing in with a modest, by today’s standards, 13.9% stated alcohol.… Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache The Derelict Vineyard 2009
($29, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite its punch of ripe wild strawberry notes, this is a mid-weight wine with a charming rusticity. It grows in the glass with smokey spicy elements appearing after the fruit notes. The more you sip it, the more you like it.… Read more
Joel Gott, California (United States) Red wine 2011
($14): Joel Gott is what the French call a négociant. He buys grapes from growers all over the state and puts together the blend he likes. This one, simply labeled, Red Wine, comes from a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, grown in both Monterey and Knights Valley.… Read more
Joel Gott, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon “815” 2010
($14): Gott purchased grapes from five different areas — Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Lodi, Paso Robles and Lake County — to put together this beautifully balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. He has managed to combine lush black fruit nuances with mouth-watering acidity without going over the top with either.… Read more
Fracture, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Languedoc – Roussillon, France) Grenache “Shatter” 2011
($29, USA Wine West): The label says it all. This bombastic Grenache-based wine is massive and intense, but it not hot or rough, carrying, as Grenache often does, its 15.9% stated alcohol remarkably well. For all its ripeness, it actually has a pleasantly bitter, not sweet, finish.… Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2010
($27): Sweet lush fruit is the clear focus of this Pinot Noir. A hint of oak ands spice and reinforces its intense style. It tastes riper than its 13.5% stated alcohol suggests. Supple smooth tannins allow for immediate enjoyment–even without food.… Read more
Weingut Meinhard Forstretter, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Grooner” 2012
($12, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Austria’s primary white grape and wine, Grüner Veltliner has the potential to soar in popularity because it is an ideal choice with a wide range of foods. In the past, I’d advise those in doubt about what wine to serve with a particular food to choose Riesling or Champagne.… Read more
Innocent Bystander, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2011
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Contrary to conventional wisdom, not all of Australia is hot. Indeed, the Yarra Valley in Victoria is quite chilly and, as this wine shows, perfectly suited for stylish Pinot Noir, a grape that doesn’t like the heat.… Read more
De Bortoli, King Valley (Victoria, Australia) Bella Riva Vineyard “Bella Riva Red” 2011
($11): Here’s a pleasant surprise. I was not expecting much from an $11 wine from Australia. Instead of some simple fruit bomb, De Bartoli has fashioned a refreshing and vibrant red with by blending equal amounts of Sangiovese and Merlot. Bright, cherry-like flavors are infused with subtle smoky notes.… Read more
Domaine Paul Blanck, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2011
($16, Michael Skurnik): Blanck’s 2011 Pinot Blanc is a wonderfully versatile wine. The barest hint of sweetness, which comes across as a pleasing roundness, makes it a perfect stand-alone aperitif. A paradoxical bitter grapefruit rind nuance in the finish and excellent balancing acidity adds backbone and verve, making it a great choice to accompany spicy food.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Unoaked 2011
($17): 
Chateau Ste. Michelle, one of the locomotives of the Washington State wine industry, produces a series of “limited release” wines. Wendy Stuckey, their talented white winemaker, made only about 2,500 bottles of this unoaked Chardonnay. Delivering a crisp green apple-like fruitiness, it has a refreshing austerity.… Read more
Domaine Durand, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Réserve 2012
($17, Monsieur Touton): A solid Sancerre reflecting its origins, not just the Sauvignon Blanc grape, Durand’s 2012 delivers nice bite, without being aggressive. Citrus elements dazzle the palette in the finish. It’s refreshing and a good choice for mussels or other shellfish.… Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2010
($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): 
Hecht & Bannier is a high quality négociant specializing in the wines from the Languedoc. If you ever want to explore how the wines from the different appellations in this part of the South of France differ, pick up bottlings from Hecht & Bannier and taste them side by side. … Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2011
($14, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The Languedoc, an enormous swath of vineyards in the sunny South of France extending west from the Rhone River to the Spanish border, is a minefield for wine. The wines range from unique and wonderful to astringent and dilute. … Read more
Pech-Latt, Corbières (Languedoc, France) 2011
($12, HB Wine Merchants): You have just found your summertime grilling wine! Pech-Latt is one of the star producers in Corbières, one of the Languedoc’s most important appellations. A blend of Grenache (30%), Carignan (30%) Syrah (25%) and Mouvèdre, it transmits the sun and spice of the South of France. … Read more
Château de Pennautier, Cabardès (Languedoc, France) 2011
($13, Baron Francois): Cabardès, a small appellation in the Languedoc, sits where Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences meet. It’s one of the few areas in France where regulations permit grapes from both regions. Reflecting the tradition of the area, the Château de Pennautier, owned by Comte Nicolas de Longeril, one of the Languedoc’s most reliable names, is composed of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Grenache and Syrah. … Read more
Jean-Maurice Raffault, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2011
($17, The Country Vintner): The vast majority of wines from Chinon, likely more than 95%, are red, so you don’t see many on retailers’ shelves. If you see this one, buy it. Made from Chenin Blanc, it’s entirely dry with vibrant stone fruit-like nuances.… Read more
Domaine Paul Mas, Limoux Blanc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay “Arrogant Frog” 2011
($9, Palm Bay International): Despite the name, I must recommend this Chardonnay because it delivers more than the price suggests. Most Chardonnays at this price are clumsy and slightly sweet. Paul Mas, one of the region’s notable négociants, has made one that’s clean and fresh, with a delicate creaminess atop its tart apple-like fruitiness.… Read more
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Languedoc-Montpeyroux (Languedoc, France) 2010
($20, Kermit Lynch): The appellation system in the Languedoc is currently undergoing dramatic changes. Technically, this wine is still an AOC Coteaux du Languedoc with the name of the subregion, Montpeyroux, on the label. Soon, it will have its own appellation, simply Montpeyroux.… Read more
CVNE, Rioja (Spain) Rosado 2011
($13, Europvin): Although 95% of Rioja’s production is red, the region makes some attractive whites and rosés. And this rosé is one of them. CVNE, one of the region’s top producers, used Tempranillo entirely for this crisp, lively wine. Bright cherry-like fruit notes are framed by refreshing acidity. … Read more
Rippon, Central Otago (New Zealand) Riesling 2009
($30, Station Imports): Although New Zealand’s Central Otago region on the South Island is prized Pinot Noir area–80% of the vineyards are planted to that grape–it should come as no surprise that Riesling does very well there as well because it, like Pinot Noir, likes cooler climate. … Read more
Burn Cottage, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2011
($50, Classic Wines): 
The international backgrounds of the people involved with Burn Cottage help explain why this Pinot Noir is exceptional. Marquis Sauvage, owner, though hailing from Kansas, is no stranger to the wine business. He and his family own wine distributorships in the Midwest and Koehler Ruprecht in the Rhinepfalz. … Read more
Couly-Duthei, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “La Coulée Automnale” 2011
($15, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): 
I don’t have enough experience with Chinon to say that Couly-Dutheil is the area’s best producer. But I can’t think of producer whose wines are consistently better. Couly-Dutheil produces a variety of bottling reflecting the diversity and individuality of their vineyards.… Read more
Bodegas Ramírez de la Piscina, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2008
($15, Jorge Ordonez Selection): This must be one of the most enjoyable $15 wines I’ve tasted recently. It’s a classical and traditional Rioja with an unbeatable combination of red fruit flavors intertwined with herbal nuances and a little smokiness for good measure. … Read more
Gascón, Mendoza (Argentina) “Colosal” 2011
($15, Gascon USA): The name says it all. Made from a blend of Malbec, Bonarda, Syrah and 
Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s a big juicy fruit forward wine with supple tannins. Easy to sip for those who like that style, Colosal would also go well with full flavored pasta dishes.… Read more
Ruinart, Champagne (France) NV
($82, Moët Hennessey): Founded in 1729, Ruinart is Champagne’s oldest house. They focus on Chardonnay, which explains why their stylish and elegant rosé contains such a large proportion of it in the blend, typically 45%. The remainder of the blend is Pinot Noir, which contributes bright red berry fruit notes. … Read more
Huia, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2009
($22, Adventures In Wine): It’s clear to me after tasting a range of aromatic white wines from New Zealand that the Kiwis make exciting whites in addition to their unique and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. Huia’s Pinot Gris proves the point. It clearly has the weight of Pinot Gris — as opposed to the lighter style of Pinot Grigio, the other name for the same grape.… Read more
Forrest, Marlborough (New Zealand) Riesling “The Doctors’” 2011
($15, American Wine Distributors): The name of the wine reflects that the owners, John and Bridgett Forrest, both have PhDs. These smart people need to convey on the label the style of Riesling that’s in the bottle because it’s a touch sweet and consumers expecting dry Riesling will be startled. … Read more
Fonseca, Porto (Portugal) “Bin 27” NV
($21, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Fonseca’s Bin 27 is a satisfying Port you can enjoy every day, as opposed to vintage Port, which is a special occasion drink for most of us. As a ruby Port, Fonseca has aged it in large barrels for about five years, which softens it and makes it ready to drink upon release. … Read more
Croft, Porto (Portugal) 2009
($84, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Of the trio of 2009 vintage Ports from the family owned Fladgate Partnership, Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft, Croft’s is the silkiest at this stage. Supple and succulent, the ripe black fruit and spice almost caresses the palate. … Read more
Taylor Fladgate, Porto (Portugal) 2009
($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Taylor’s 2009 vintage Port is stunningly good. The 2009 vintage Ports in general are riper because of the warmth of the growing season. Even with the added power and density, the 2009 Taylor Fladgate retains its hallmark elegance and firm minerality because its vineyards at Quinta de Vargellas, a major source for vintage Port, face north, which means the grapes receive less strong sun. … Read more
Fonseca, Porto (Portugal) 2009
($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Fonseca vintage Ports are typically slightly riper and less taut than Taylor’s because of the location of their major vineyard, Quinta do Panascal. The difference holds true in 2009, with the Fonseca delivering lots of plumy fruit offset beautifully by exotic spice and firm yet suave tannins. … Read more
Domaine Jean-David , Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2011
($20, Polaner): Domaine Jean-David is a small 40-acre domaine located in Seguret, one of the 18 villages that make more distinctive wine and therefore are allowed to append their name to the Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages appellation. Made from the usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache (71%) and Carignan (14%) with Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah rounding out the blend, it is both floral and mineraly with suave tannins. … Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) “Crios Rosé of Malbec” 2012
($15, Vine Connections): Susana Balbo is one of Argentina’s best and most reliable producers. Her wines are a fine place to start when exploring Argentine wines because she stratifies them into at least two levels based on quality. The Crios label is the lower one and consistently offers a good price/quality ratio. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Pétalos” 2010
($22, The Rare Wine Company): 
Ricardo Perez and his uncle, Alvaro Palacios, whose last name is synonymous with great Spanish wine, are putting Bierzo and its unique grape, Mencia, on the world’s wine stage. Located in rural middle of nowhere northwestern Spain, Bierzo never had a reputation for producing fine wine. … Read more
Mas des Brousses, Terrasses du Larzac (Coteaux du Languedoc, France) 2011
($26, Polaner): Although the Terrasses du Larzac, one of the best subregions of the Coteaux du Languedoc, has not yet gained official recognition, I have listed it as the appellation because it is expected to be awarded that status within the year. … Read more
Mas de Daumas Gassac, IGP Pays d’Hérault (Languedoc, France) “Moulin de Gassac Guilhem” 2011
($13, Polaner): Mas de Daumas Gassac, dubbed the Lafite of the Languedoc by France’s prestigious Gault et Millau guide in 1982, has been producing this value packed every day kind of wine since the early 1990s. It is not a second wine by any means since the blend–Syrah (40%), Grenache (25%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Carignan–bears no resemblance to their top wine, which is primarily (80%) Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Spain) “Les Terrasses VV” 2010
($40, Rare Wine Company): 
Alvaro Palacios is one of the stars of Priorat, an area in Catalonia that he helped reinvigorate in the early 1990s. Don’t be put off that Palacios refers to Les Terrasses his “third wine” behind Finca Dofi ($75) and super prized L’Ermita ($700). … Read more
Domaine de Villalin, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) “Grandes Vignes de Villalin” 2011
($20, Polaner): Quincy, a small (400 acre) appellation in the Loire, is a good source for Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, especially as the prices of its more famous neighbor, Sancerre, escalate. This one has a milder, but still enticing, bite of Sauvignon Blanc supported by minerality and invigorating acidity. … Read more
Moulin Touchais, Coteaux-du-Layon (Loire Valley, France) 1985
($65, Polaner): You read the vintage correctly. The Touchais family, which has owned vineyards in the Coteaux-du-Layon appellation since the 18th century, produces sweet wines from extremely ripe Chenin Blanc grapes that concentrate their sugars by drying on the vines (as opposed to being affected by Botrytis). … Read more
Elke Vineyards, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir Boonville Barter 2011
($26): Thanks goes to Christy Canterbury, MW, who suggested I try this wine at a recent tasting. It’s an incredible bargain for authentic Pinot Noir. Mary Elke and her team have captured the nuances of which the grape is capable. It has what I refer to as the “flavor without weight” character almost unique to Pinot Noir. … Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($27, Vine Connections): Susana Balbo, one of Argentina great winemakers, has put together an easy-to-recommend wine by blending a small amount of Malbec (10%) with the Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec adds an extra dimension to this fruit-forward weighty wine whose supple tannins allow for current consumption. … Read more
Gatinois, Champagne (France) “Vintage Brut Grand Cru” 2006
($70, Polaner): Gatinois, a family run firm located in the village of Äy, focuses on Pinot Noir-based Champagne because Äy is a Grand Cru village that is one of the top places for that varietal. As such, all their Champagnes have the power associated with that grape. … Read more
Agrapart & Fils, Champagne (France) “7 Crus Brut” NV
($53, Polaner): 
Agrapart & Fils, a small producer who farms about 25 acres of vineyards in the Côtes des Blancs, focuses, not surprisingly given their location, on Chardonnay. The 7 Crus Brut takes its name from the 7 villages, four of which are Grand Cru, from which the grapes come. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Meritage Red Wine “Artist Series” 2009
($55): This is a big, bold, Bordeaux-style blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot (27%). Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot round out the blend. Polished tannins and sweet dark fruit make it lovely for current consumption especially with a fire-grilled steak.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2009
($30): A big step up from their very good Columbia Valley Cabernet, this single vineyard bottling from Chateau Ste Michelle is worth the premium. Although it’s more concentrated, its real virtue lies in the plethora of flavors it delivers. To complement the black fruit, there’s minerality and hints of earth that impart a savory component.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) “Boreal” Red Wine 2009
($30): 
Chateau Ste. Michelle is on a roll with their Rhône-style wines. This gorgeous blend of Syrah (95%) and Viognier is another winner. It’s another one limited release wine, only 603 cases, that is worth the search. The Viognier adds intrigue and lift to the Syrah.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Mourvèdre Wahluke Slope 2009
($30): With only 613 cases produced, it will be difficult to find this wine. But it’s worth the search. At first glance, Mourvèdre, a grape that needs lots of heat to ripen, would seem out of place in Washington State. But one taste tells you it is not.… Read more