Fabio Costantino explained that his father planted Minnella, a rare indigenous white grape, 50 years ago. They include a small amount of it in their Etna Bianco because, as he puts it, “we have it, so we use it.” He believes that the inclusion of both Catarratto (15%) and Minnella (5%) softens what could otherwise be an overly acidic Carricante in the Etna Bianco.… Read more
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Terra Costantino, Etna Rosso Riserva DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Contrada Blandano” 2018 ($39)
Fabio Costantino bristled when he was introduced as a Sicilian producer, remarking succinctly and pointedly, “Etna, not Sicily.” After tasting their wines, it is easy to understand why he called Etna “an island on an island.” The successive layers and flows of lava create enormous diversity of terroir, which has allowed the locals to create 133+ contrada or geographic areas, whose size range wildly.… Read more
Antonelli, Spoleto DOC (Umbria, Italy) Trebbiano Spoletino “Trebium” 2023 ($23)
Antonelli, located in Montefalco, is an outlier there in one respect—almost a third of their production is white, compared to about ten percent for the area in general. After seeing the quality of this wine, I understand why. Trebbiano Spoletino is not a clone of Trebbiano but has a different and unique DNA.… Read more
Librandi, Val di Neto IGT (Calabria, Italy) “Critone” 2024 ($16, Winebow)
Traditionally, Librandi’s region of Cirò was a red wine-heavy area, but as Paolo Librandi explains, in the last 30 years the proportion of whites has doubled and now equals that of reds for them. Their Critone typically contains a small (10%) amount of Sauvignon Blanc, a grape rarely seen in these parts because, as Paolo explains, to farm it correctly, “you must live in vineyard at harvest time.”… Read more
Michele Satta, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Piastraia” 2022 ($53)
Michele Satta was one of the founders of the Bolgheri DOC, so the estate is no newcomer to the area. That said, Satta’s blend is rare for the region because it includes a bit of Sangiovese, typically about ten percent. Giacomo, Michele’s son who took over running the estate in 2019, believes Sangiovese adds “freshness” to the wines.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2023 ($70, Misa Imports)
Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the famed Côte d’Or that makes only white wine, remains an underappreciated site for white Burgundies. As usual, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines shows the heights an appellation can achieve. Les Combes, produced from young vines planted in 2012 in this south facing vineyards, displays the stoniness you’d expect from Montagny, but with an added touch of excitement.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmelottes “Vieilles Vignes 1939” 2023 ($100, Misa Imports)
Philippe Pascal, who along with winemaker Guillaume Marko, run Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, explains that the soil and exposure of the vines for their Les Charmelottes are basically the same as for their Les Combes. The difference is the age of the vines.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier aux Moines “Les Dessus”2023 ($130, Misa Imports)
The team at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines has been fanatical in replanting their vineyard over the last decade plus, pulling out old vines, which as owner Philippe Pascal quips, “produced grapes the size of potatoes.” They are replanting with a massale selection, a traditional viticultural practice that propagates a variety of vines from the vineyard instead of using a “Mother” vine or clone.… Read more
Paolo e Noemia d’Amico, Umbria IGP (Italy) Pinot Nero “Notturno dei Calanchi” 2021 ($34)
Pinot Noir in Central Italy? Call me skeptical, but that is exactly the reason to taste. And am I glad I did! The volcanic soil of the Calanchi Valley—hence the name of the wine—likely imbues it with such a compelling combination of fruity and savory notes.… Read more
Paolo e Noemia d’Amico, Tuscia DOC (Lazio, Italy) Grechetto “Agylla” 2023 ($20)
Paolo e Noemia d’Amico make wine exclusively from organically grown grapes on their family-run estate that sits on the border of Lazio and Umbria. This 100-percent Grechetto comes from Tuscia, also known as Colli Etruschi Viterbesi, a tiny 220-acre DOC in Lazio.… Read more
Old Vines—Better Wines? Evidence from Givry’s Domaine du Cellier aux Moines
Conventional wisdom holds that grapes from old vines make better wine. The science behind that conventional wisdom is fuzzy, which of course, leads to a plethora of explanations. One sensible one is that older vines yield fewer grapes but that those grapes have more “oomph”—they’ve concentrated the same amount of energy into a smaller volume.… Read more
Weekly Wines in the Spotlight: Clotilde Davenne
Clotilde Davenne 2022 Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre 93
It’s common knowledge that Burgundy produces sensational, sought-after, and expensive wines. Less well known is that the region also produces excellent and affordable wines, such as this white Burgundy, that is currently available in the U.S.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2022 ($73, Misa Imports)
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is setting a new benchmark for the wines from Givry. Their 2022 from the famed Clos du Cellier aux Moines, arguably Givry’s top Premier Cru vineyard, is just one example of how they are redefining the appellation.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France Les Chaumées 2023 ($180, Misa Imports)
The 2023 vintage in Burgundy has the reputation of producing forward or “approachable” wines that are ready to drink. Don’t be fooled. This stunning and age-worthy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is not. Don’t get me wrong. It is a fabulous wine, as my score shows.… Read more
Can Sumoi, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) “La Rosa” 2024 ($24)
Can Sumoi is a relatively new, still wine project from the famed Raventós i Blanc sparkling wine producer, which dates all the way back to 1497. Pepe Raventós, the current head of the family-run company, explains that this fine rosé is a blend of Sumoll, an indigenous red grape, and Xarel-lo.… Read more
Can Sumoi, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Garnatxa / Sumoll 2023 ($25)
Pepe Raventós, the current head of the family-run sparkling wine company, Raventós i Blanc, purchased and resurrected an old farm, Serra de l’Home (literally, “mountain of man”) that dates from 1645 and is making still wine there under the Can Sumoi (literally, “house of Sumoll”) label.… Read more
Domaine Mont Bessay, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) “En Bessay” 2023 ($60, Misa Imports)
Even with the resurgence of interest in Beaujolais, Juliénas, one of the region’s 10 crus, has been overlooked or under-rated. With Domaine Mont Bessay, Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are changing that and, in the process, are redefining the wines from that cru.… Read more
Pasqua Vigneti et Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Famiglia Pasqua” 2017 ($50)
Pasqua’s bold and warming Amarone delivers everything you’d expect from that appellation: dense, black fruitiness tinged with an engaging, raisin-like accented note. The 15 percent stated alcohol delivers an enveloping warmth without being hot or intrusive. It is finely textured with great balancing acidity and the barest hint of sweetness, which actually amplifies its appeal.… Read more
Pasqua Vigneti et Cantine, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Mai Dire Mai” 2015 ($64)
Valpolicella Superiore lies between Valpolicella and Amarone in style, displaying more density and oomph than Valpolicella yet not the power of Amarone. Think of it as an Amarone Rosso. Pasqua’s 2015, a mature and balanced 10-year-old wine, is a real treat.… Read more
Can Sumoi, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Xarel-lo 2023 ($23)
Can Sumoi is a relatively new, still wine project from the famed Raventós i Blanc sparkling wine producer, which dates its origins to 1497. Pepe Raventós, who currently leads the family-owned domain, insists that Xarel-lo is the world’s best white wine grape, surpassing Riesling or even Chardonnay.… Read more
Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia (Penedes, Spain) “De la Finca” 2020 ($39)
I know of no finer producer of Spanish sparkling wines than Raventós i Blanc. Note that I write sparkling wines rather than Cava, because Raventós i Blanc left the Cava umbrella over a decade ago (because they felt the quality level in general was abysmal in many wines bearing the Cava designation.… Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Luce” 2022 ($100, Vintus)
There are Super Tuscans — and then there are true Super Tuscans. Luce, an impeccable blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, falls squarely into the latter category. It delivers refined power, with the firmness and structure of Sangiovese balancing the more boisterous and juicier Merlot component.… Read more
King Family Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) “Mountain Plains” Red Wine 2021 ($85)
The weighty bottle accurately predicts the size of this powerful red blend of Cabernet Franc (45%), Merlot (37%) and Petit Verdot. Yet, despite its boldness, the wine is not overblown. Supple tannins support the ripe black succulent fruit notes without intruding.… Read more
Tenuta di Castellaro, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Ossidiana” 2021 ($50)
Located on Lipari Island, just off the coast of Sicily, Tenuta di Castellaro is focusing on Corinto, a native but obscure grape of Sicily. This one Nero Ossidiana, which takes its name from obsidian, a kind of volcanic rock, is a blend of organic Corinto Nero (90%) and Nero d’Avola.… Read more
Tenuta di Castellaro, Terre Siciliane Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Corinto” 2021 ($70)
Every so often when tasting wines, you come across one, like this grand one, that makes you wonder why you hadn’t known about it sooner. Well, in this case it is because the wine comes from an obscure grape planted on a volcanic island little known for red wines.… Read more
DuCard Vineyards, Virginia Cabernet Franc “Vintner Reserve” 2023 ($63)
Made exclusively from Cabernet Franc grapes from the winery’s 25-year-old estate vineyard helps explain the statue of this midweight delight. Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated alcohol, it displays more red rather than black fruitiness, which just adds to its elegance and charms.… Read more
50 West Vineyards, Virginia “Aldie Heights Cuvée” 2021 ($70)
You would think for a wine made almost exclusively from Tannat and Petit Verdot, two grapes known for their power, that this wine would be over-the-top. Well, it’s not. Yes, it is dark and plummy, but not just fruity, as hints of minerals and tar sneak in.… Read more
The Place to Experience Japanese Wine and Sake Pairing in Tokyo
In addition to Japan’s longstanding tradition of producing sake, the country has a burgeoning wine industry. Although sake is becoming more widely available in the U.S., Japan wine (koshu) is difficult to find here. One of the joys of coming to Japan in general and Tokyo in particular is to learn about these beverages and how they pair with Japanese cuisine.… Read more
Tenuta Santori, Offida DOCG (Marche, Italy) Pecorino 2022 ($20, Sounder Imports)
Offida, a small area in the southern part of the Marche, has been a DOCG only since 2011. Pecorino (the grape, not the cheese) has been growing in popularity with both growers and consumers. Growers like it because it ripens early, before autumn rains, and is relatively disease resistant.… Read more
Paradise Springs Winery, Shenandoah Valley (Virginia) Brown Bear Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2023 ($42)
Whether Cabernet Franc will become Virginia’s primary wine remains to be seen. But this balanced mid-weight one from Paradise Springs Winery shows why it could. It delivers paradoxically ripe yet restrained black fruit flavors accented by subtle herbal ones. A delightful hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its stature and prevents it from its being overly fruity.… Read more
Alma Rosa, Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($47)
Despite a stated 14.6 percent stated alcohol, this Pinot Noir is not overblown or wandering into the “Pinot-Syrah” category. Yes, the alcohol is apparent by a hint of heat in the finish, yet the overall impression is that of a balanced, fragrant wine that combines bright red and black fruit notes with a touch of minerality.… Read more
Col Vetoraz, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2024 ($40, Regal Wine Imports)
Col Vetoraz, founded about 30 years ago, has made the decision to make only Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG and label it as such, refusing to put Prosecco on the label. They feel that the generic Prosecco name has destroyed the reputation of the fine wines from Valdobbiadene area, the best part of the Prosecco region with the Cartizze Cru being the best of the best)/.… Read more
Barboursville Vineyards, Virginia “Octagon” 2017 ($95)
A seamless blend of Merlot (62%), Cabernet Franc (31%) and Petit Verdot, Barboursville’s 2017 mid-weight Octagon continues their run of outstanding wines and in the process, shows the potential of Virginia wines. This elegant Bordeaux blend provides plenty of enjoyment without being overblown.… Read more
Marchesi Frescobaldi Castello Pomino, Pomino Bianco Riserva DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Benefizio” 2022 ($45, Vintus)
Cosimo de’ Medici included Pomino, along with what is now Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra, in his 1716 edict defining areas capable of producing outstanding wine. Whether Chardonnay was planted in Pomino at that time is not known.… Read more
Tenuta Campo Maccione, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2024 ($22)
The talented Chianti Classico producer, Famiglia Zingarelli of Rocca delle Macie, owns the Campo Maccione estate. Unsurprisingly, they fashioned a lovely, easy going Vermentino from organic grapes in 2024. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it bright throughout a meal. It is an excellent choice for simple seafood this summer.… Read more
Tenuta Sassoregale, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2024 ($18)
The 2024 Vermentino from Tenuta Sassoregale, an estate that is part of the Santa Margherita group, blossoms in the glass, delivering subtle and engaging citrus notes accented by a touch of saline-like acidity.
90 Michael Apstein – April 30, 2025… Read more
Collemassari, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Melacce” 2024 ($19)
The famed Montecucco producer, Collemassari, produced a creamy, gentle bottling of Vermentino from organic grapes in 2024. Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated-alcohol, this Vermentino still invigorates the palate with mouth-cleansing acidity and magnifies its appeal. It is another great choice for summer sipping, either alone or with grilled fish.… Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Prelius” 2024 ($23)
It is no surprise that Castello di Volpaia, a top Tuscan producer based in Radda, fashioned a crowd-pleasing 2024 Vermentino. Their Vermentino, Prelius, has always been a hit with me. The 2024 is no exception. Made from organic grapes, it combines a touch of creaminess with an attractive and subtle white pepper-like spiciness.… Read more
Tuscan Vermentino’s Rise to Excellence
Many wine journalists and sommeliers look down their collective noses at Tuscan Vermentino. They believe that the only “real” Vermentino comes from just a few specific locations: Sardinia (Vermentino di Sardegna, or the even more exalted Vermentino di Gallura), Corsica, or Liguria (where the grape is known as Pigato, most notably in Coli di Luni DOC).… Read more
Carpineto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2019 ($26)
Wines like this one help explain the justified popularity of Chianti Classico. At five years of age, Carpineto’s Riserva delivers a harmonious combination of red and black fruits accented by spicy notes. It has depth without heaviness. Suave tannins lend support while providing a suave texture.… Read more
Elvio Cogno, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Nascetta “Anas-Cëtta” 2022 ($32 Wilson Daniels)
Nascetta, historically found only in the Novello commune, is Piedmont’s only autochthonous white grape. The wine is having a revival due, in major part, to Cogno’s role in saving the grape from extinction. Unsurprisingly, they are a leading producer of this captivating white.… Read more
Jordan Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($62)
Jordan, an iconic Sonoma producer, continues its track record of producing polished Cabernet Sauvignons. Their 2020 combines an alluring ripe mixture of plumy and savory notes, all atop a plush base. As usual, Jordan has created a wine with depth and power, while avoiding the temptation to go overboard.… Read more
Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Brut Réserve NV ($54)
Still a family run Champagne house that happens to be headed by a woman, Carol Duval-Leroy, the eponymous firm is a leading producer in the region. Their non-vintage Brut Réserve, a seamless blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, displays a pleasing fleshiness and roundness, all supported by a straight spine of acidity.… Read more
Taittinger, Champagne (France) “La Française” Brut NV ($63, Kobrand)
I have often wondered how Taittinger could make such a magnificent super premium Champagne, Comtes de Champagne, while simultaneously producing an anemic La Française, their non-vintage bottling. Something seems to have changed! Comtes de Champagne remains spectacular, still standing with any Champagne in that category, while La Française has taken on depth and complexity that balances its backbone.… Read more
Starmont Vineyards, North Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($22)
Predictably, California Sauvignon Blanc delivers more melon-like, riper flavors compared with the grapefruit profile of the New Zealand version. Sufficient spice and brightness keep this one lively, while the melon-y notes add depth and balance. It, too, can serve double duty as a stand-alone sipper and an accompaniment to something from the sea.… Read more
The Federalist, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($17, Terlato Wines International)
With its racy grapefruit-like zing, the Federalist could be the poster boy for Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Happily, reasonable weight helps balance the prominent citrus character, though that note still predominates. This straightforward and cutting Sauvignon Blanc will be ideal for barbeques this summer.… Read more
San Felice, Bolgheri Bianco DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Bell’aja” 2023 ($32, Total Beverage Solution)
It turns out that Bolgheri, well known for top red wines, also makes noteworthy whites like this one. Its captivating aromatics indicate that Vermentino is the predominant variety. Sometimes said to be a grape that does best when “it sees the sea,” Vermentino is well suited to growing on the Tuscan coast, where Bolgheri is located.… Read more
Tenuta Villanova, Friuli DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Cala Bennati” 2023 ($20, Park Street Imports)
Producers in Friuli, in Italy’s northeast at the base of Italian alps, note its cool climate and breezy air as the explanation for their terrific white wines. This floral Pinot Grigio, with good depth and pleasing, not mouth-puckering, acidity, will be a crowd pleaser.… Read more
Granbazán, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Etiqueta Verde” 2024 ($27)
The cutting edginess of this electrifying wine could serve as a replacement for teeth cleaning. But its joy, and my enthusiasm for it, comes from its harmony. Plenty of depth and adequate ripeness balances the ginger-like spice and racy profile. This long and balanced beauty makes it a fine choice for a plethora of flavors in an omakase meal or hearty seafood bathed in a tomato sauce.… Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Alberdi” 2020 ($25)
La Rioja Alta, founded in 1890, remains one of Rioja’s top producers. This muscular Reserva frames black fruit and spicey notes with firm but not hard supporting tannins, making it ideal for current consumption with hearty beef dishes. A long and long explosive finish with uplifting acidity amplifies its stature.… Read more