($70, Vintus Wines):  Condrieu, a small roughly 500-acre, appellation in the northern Rhône valley, mandates the exclusive use of Viognier, a temperamental grape.  Guigal, arguably the Rhône’s best producer overall, has (perhaps unsurprisingly) tamed it and turned it into an excellent wine.  Viognier, an aromatic grape, planted in the wrong place and turned into wine by less talented winemakers can come across as heavy and alcoholic.  Not so with Guigal.  Their ripe 2019 displays a palate of apricot, peaches, and even melon-like flavors, all supported by good acidity.  Its lovely viscous texture reinforces its richness.  It would make an excellent choice for spicy Asian cuisine.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023