($12): Coteaux Bourguignons, a relatively new appellation in Burgundy, has few rules, allowing growers broad latitude. They can blend Burgundy’s Pinot Noir and Beaujolais’s Gamay, along with a couple of obscure varieties, grown anywhere in Burgundy from Chablis in the north to Beaujolais in the south. The quality is, like all Burgundy, very much dependent on the producer. Whatever this light to mid-weight red from Dominique Piron might lack in power, it makes up with charm. An uncomplicated wine, its appeal is immediately apparent and would be a great choice for take-out rotisserie chicken. The absence of tannins means it takes a chill nicely.
87 Michael Apstein Sep 28, 2021