($30): With the 2017 vintage, regulators added a new sub-category, Côte d’Or, to Bourgogne, the very broad regional appellation that allowed grapes to come from anywhere in Burgundy. Wines labeled Bourgogne Côte d’Or mean that the grapes all come from the famed Côte d’Or, the very heart of Burgundy. Domaine Michel Bouzereau, one of the leading producers in Meursault has 10 acres of vines, a third of his domaine, that lie just outside the official limits of Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Grapes from these vines go into his stunning Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or. Their focused and mineral-laden 2017 is an impressive white Burgundy. Though not a village wine, it combines a Puligny-like minerality with a Meursault-like creaminess. It shows the enormous talent of this grower. Buy as much of it as you can afford.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020