When tasted with Anita Colinot in 2019, she felt this bottling was just coming into its own. Though I hadn’t tasted it at a more youthful time, I can see what she means. Any rusticity that César may have imparted during its youth has morphed into an alluring complexity of earthy leafiness. A distinct minerality is still apparent. The savoury aspect that comes with bottle age and a polished texture makes it a delight to drink now. But it’s a balanced wine, so there’s not rush.