Maison Louis Jadot, Bouzeron (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Gagey” 2016


($29, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Bouzeron is the only white wine appellation in Burgundy that prohibits Chardonnay in favor of another grape, Bourgogne Aligoté, because the soil is particularly well-suited to it.  Although wines labeled Bourgogne Aligoté can been thin and harsh, the wines from Bouzeron generally are not.  Indeed, that appellation is a wonderful source for zesty mineral-driven wines.  This Jadot wine is bottled with the notation that it’s from the Domaine Gagey because the Gagey family (Pierre-Henri Gagey is currently President of Louis Jadot) purchased vineyards there several years ago.  Not particularly fruity, this wine focuses on stony, mineral qualities.  It has the hallmark Jadot breeding and balance.  Fresh and lively with good density, it conveys none of the screaming acidity sometimes associated with Aligoté.   It’s a bargain because the reputation of the appellation has not caught up to the quality of the wines.   That will change.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018