($28, Esprit du Vin): The Fourchaume vineyard, really a collection of neighboring plots all of which can be sold under the Fourchaume label, is known for producing the most generous and fruity Chablis.   That said, they typically have, like this one from L’Homme Mort (“the dead man”), a riveting underpinning.  The combination of fruitiness, stoniness and the brilliant acidity of the 2014 vintage makes this “dead man” very much alive and alluring.  It’s a bargain at the price.  Stock up because the disastrous weather in Chablis in 2016 is certain to result it unpleasant increases in price.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2016