($80, Louis Latour USA): Chablis was more successful than the Côte d’Or for white wines in 2012. Indeed, the 2012 vintage produced excellent Chablis. The Simonnet Febrve style of tightly wound, mineraly-infused, bracing wines is ideally suited to this vintage, which produced ripe grapes. Simonnet Febrve’s Chablis from Les Clos, arguably the grandest of the Grand Cru vineyards, is electrifying. Tightly wound — it took three days sitting open in my refrigerator to reveal its grandeur — this has the flinty and subtly smoky signature I associate with Les Clos. Combine those qualities with persistence and purity and you have a great young Grand Cru Chablis. Just don’t plan on drinking it for five years, at least.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 7, 2015