($18, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé, a small, 500-acre appellation created only in 1998, was carved out of the Mâcon-Villages appellation because the wines from Viré and Clessé (along with a couple of other towns) had considerably more potential. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has realized that potential with their 2010 Viré-Clessé. This Chardonnay-based white Burgundy has the stoniness common to the wines of the Mâconnais, but with more persistence and focus than the run-of-the-mill Mâcon-Villages. The 2010, with its vibrancy reflective of the vintage, is particularly appealing, and, I might add, well priced.
89 Michael Apstein Sep 9, 2014