($30, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Pouilly-Fuissé, the best appellation in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, has such a following in the US that producers can bulk up yields or otherwise cut corners on quality. Drouhin does not.  The first sip conveys the refinement that separates this appellation from the rest of the Mâconnais.  It has wonderful intensity — a creamy stoniness — without being heavy or overtly ripe. Perky acidity amplifies the finish.  Drouhin’s 2013, a superb example of Pouilly-Fuissé, shows why that appellation is so popular.  Wines from Pouilly-Fuissé have a remarkable ability to develop and improve with bottle age, but frankly, this one is such a delight now, I suspect few people with cellar it.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2014