Category Archives: Spain

Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) “Monte Real de Familia” 2019 ($23, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Although Rioja Reserva wines spend only a year in barrel, like Crianza bottlings, the source of the grapes is typically better and the required two years of bottle aging before release smooths out the rough edges. The mid-weight Monte Real de Familia Reserva delivers less fruitiness, and more complexity, with a distinct savory component.… Read more

Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Gran Reserva, La Rioja, Spain “Monte Real” 2014 ($48, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Gran Reserva wines from Rioja require a minimum of five years before release, with at least two years in barrel. The grapes for Gran Reserva are always the highest quality, in this case Tempranillo from Bodegas Riojanas’ best vineyard. Fitting the expected profile, the mid-weight but not ponderous Gran Reserva from Monte Real conveys an impeccable balance of darker fruit and an appealing savory, almost leathery, kick.… Read more

Conde Valdemar, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2015

($30, Cru Selections):  Regulations for the Reserva category of Rioja require at least 3 years of aging, one of which must be in barrel, before release.  Many, like this beauty, are aged longer before they hit retailers’ shelves.  Hint of brown mahogany in the color announces it maturity and the non-fruit panoply of flavors (coffee and even leather-like notes) on the palate confirms it. Read more

Mar de Frades, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022

($23, Zamora Company):  Albariño and Rías Baixas are practically synonymous.  Yes, there is a little other white wine produced aside from Albariño, and of course, in neighboring Portugal, the same grape (Alvarinho in Portuguese) is used for Vinho Verde.  But Albariño from Rías Baixas is hard to resist, especially in the summer because its uplifting citrus acidity refreshes and simultaneously cuts through most anything on the table, even barbecued chicken. Read more

Conde Valdemar, Rioja Crianza (Spain) Tempranillo 2018

($20):  It’s hard to beat Rioja for satisfying mid-weight well-priced reds.  Take this delightful example.  Conde Valdemar has made a seamless combination of dark fruitiness touched by a kiss of seductive oak, all enlivened by lip-smacking acidity.  Fine tannins make this bright and fresh beauty great for current drinking with anything from a roast chicken and mushrooms to skirt steak fresh from the grill.Read more

Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019

($16, Carolina Wine Brands):  Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling.  The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive.  It adds weight and gravitas without dominating.  Though there is more “oomph” here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. Read more

Faustino, Cava Reserva (Penedès, Spain) Brut NV

($19, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits):  Cava, as most people know, is a D.O. (Spanish equivalent of an appellation) located in the northeast part of the country that produces sparkling wines using the same secondary in-bottle fermentation used in Champagne.  Cava Reserva means that the wine has been aged on the lees for a minimum of 18 months (compared to 9 months for non-reserva), which means they take on additional complexity from contact with the dead yeast (the lees). Read more

Vilarnau, Cava DO (Penedes, Spain) “Barcelona” Reserva Brut, Trencadís Edition NV

($15, Gonzalez Byass):   Don’t let the atypical packaging — an abstract art mosaic covering the entire bottle — put you off.  Nor that a company best known for their Sherry is making Cava.  A blend of two traditional grapes used for Cava, Macabeo and Parelleda, along with an atypical one, Chardonnay, Vilarnau provides a creaminess offset by a hint of bitterness. Read more

Bodegas Muriel, Rioja DOC Reserva (Spain) “Fincas de la Villa” 2016

($17, Quintessential Wines):  This mid-weight wine demonstrates clearly why Rioja is so popular.  This red brings a bit of everything, a bright savory combination of red fruits and spice, to the table.  Pleasantly drying tannins lend support without being intrusive.  Despite its mid-weight body, this energetic wine commands a serious presence and calls for red meats or hearty tapas.Read more

Gallina de Piel, Calatayud (Aragón, Spain) “Mimetic” 2018

($15, Bluest Sky Group):  Though I’ve given some background on the Gallina de Piel wines previously, it bears repeating because their wines represent great bargains.  So, it’s worth hearing the story again.  Two sommeliers, one of whom, David Seijas, worked at El Bulli, named the best restaurant in the world five times by Restaurant magazine, founded Gallina de Piel. Read more