($30): As much as I liked Naumes 2016 Tempranillo, their 2017 struck me as even better. Its firmness and minerality presents a great contrast to the fleshy and fruitier Malbec. It is structured without being aggressive or hard. Its stature is apparent in the long and attractive hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – Oregon
A Rogue in Oregon
One definition of rogue is “something out of the ordinary.” It is fitting, then, that the Naumes Family Winery is located in Oregon’s Rogue Valley, because they certainly do something out of the ordinary. Ordinary, in terms of Oregon wine, is pretty clear: superb Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and notable Pinot Gris. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2018
($25): Although Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the French and Italian words for the same grape, the name chosen by New World producers usually defines the style of the wine. Naumes’ rendition, with its subtle hint of pear-like flavors, delivers the fleshy Pinot Gris version. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “GSM” 2017
($40): GSM stands for the classic Mediterranean blend: Grenache (50%); Syrah (33%) and Mourvèdre. Naumes has fashioned an exquisitely balanced mid-weight wine from these grapes, each of which adds something. Grenache makes its presence known with lively spice, while Syrah adds power and Mourvèdre savory nuances. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Barbera 2017
($35): Plantings of Barbera in Oregon, let alone in the Rogue Valley, must be miniscule. The 2018 Oregon Vineyard and Winery Report doesn’t even mention the grape in their detailed statistics. Judging from this wine, more wineries will be planting it. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018
($35): Siduri, named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, specializes in Pinot Noir, especially single vineyard bottlings. According to their website they make only single vineyard wines from a total of 20 vineyards throughout California and Oregon. Fortunately, they have expanded their production and now produce blended wines from three appellations: Willamette Valley in Oregon, plus two from California, specifically, Santa Barbara County, and the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Grenache 2016
($35): The Rogue Valley Winegrowers Association’s website tells us that the Rogue Valley, Oregon’s southernmost winegrowing area, has 4,000 acres of vines. The most important red wines in the warm area are made from Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, and Malbec. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($40): The history of the Naumes Family Vineyards seems to confirm the mantra that good wine starts in the vineyard. They’ve been making wine only for a handful of years, but have been farming fruit for 100 years, according to their website. … Read more
Penner-Ash, McMinnville (Oregon) Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard 2017
($35): Many consumers shy away from Riesling because it comes in a range of sweetness, which is not always apparent from the label. Penner-Ash uses the scale developed by the International Riesling Foundation on the back label that indicates this wine is “medium dry” on the scale that goes from “dry” (the least sweet) to “sweet” with “medium dry” and “medium sweet” in between. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2016
($30): Tempranillo in Oregon? Who knew? Not I. But now I do and I will look for more after tasting this one from Naumes Family Vineyards. Tempranillo, Spain’s signature variety grown in Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Toro, is an early ripening one that does well in southern Oregon, according to producers there. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2017
($65): Nicolas-Jay, a French-American collaboration that started in 2012, is producing superb Pinot Noir in Oregon. On the American side is music entrepreneur, Jay Boberg. Bringing the Burgundian perspective to the venture is super star Jean-Nicolas Méo, who currently heads the famed Méo-Camuzet estate in Vosne Romanée. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2016
($30): The Rogue Valley in southwestern Oregon does not have the cachet — yet — for wine that the Willamette Valley has. Wines from the Naumes family suggests that will change. The Naumes family has been growing fruit trees in Oregon for over a hundred years and added grapes and wine only in 2013, according to their website, making them a somewhat new player in the Oregon wine industry. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2017
($30): Viognier is a tough grape to transform into wine. It needs to ripen adequately to provide its floral dimension, but a little over ripeness brings with it high alcohol and an unbalanced wine. Despite the stated 14.5-percent alcohol, this one still harnesses delicate floral and peach-like notes both on the nose and the palate. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2016
($30): The Rogue Valley in southwestern Oregon does not have the cachet — yet — for wine that the Willamette Valley has. Wines from the Naumes family suggests that will change. The Naumes family has been growing fruit trees in Oregon for over a hundred years and added grapes and wine only in 2013, according to their website, making them a somewhat new player in the Oregon wine industry. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2017
($30): Viognier is a tough grape to transform into wine. It needs to ripen adequately to provide its floral dimension, but a little over ripeness brings with it high alcohol and an unbalanced wine. Despite the stated 14.5-percent alcohol, this one still harnesses delicate floral and peach-like notes both on the nose and the palate. … Read more
Lingua Franca, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Avni” 2016
($39): Lingua Franca is one of ever-increasing numbers of Oregon wineries that have a French connection. In this case, Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine consultant, purchased a vineyard in 2012 in the Eola-Amity Hills section of the Willamette Valley, originally planning to sell the grapes. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2015
($45): The Drouhin family, one of Burgundy’s star producers, made history when they bought land in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and started Domaine Drouhin Oregon there in 1987. Over three decades later, they remain one of Oregon’s — and America’s — leading producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. … Read more
Dusky Goose, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($65): John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. … Read more
Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock 2016
($31): The Drouhin family, the famed Burgundy producer, is doing what comes naturally to Burgundy producers, focusing on the uniqueness of vineyards. They’ve purchased an additional vineyard in another part of the Willamette Valley and are making distinctive wines there that are different from the ones they produce in the Dundee Hills, showing that terroir is alive and well in Oregon. … Read more
Lingua Franca, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Avni” 2016
($39): Lingua Franca is one of ever-increasing numbers of Oregon wineries that have a French connection. In this case, Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine consultant, purchased a vineyard in 2012 in the Eola-Amity Hills section of the Willamette Valley, originally planning to sell the grapes. … Read more
Maysara, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Jamsheed” 2012
($33): The Momtazi family is not in a rush. In 1997, they purchased close to 500 acres — an abandoned wheat farm that had been free from chemical fertilizer since the beginning of that decade — and finally starting planting them in earnest two years later. … Read more
Maysara, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Asha” 2012
($50): Maysara’s Asha Pinot Noir comes from the same vineyard as the Jamsheed, but since the vineyard is large with multiple soils and numerous clones of Pinot Noir, they have the ability to create different blends. As enthralled as I was with the Jamsheed, this one is more spell-binding. … Read more
Brittan Vineyards, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Gestalt Block 2015
($60): Founded barely 15 years ago, in 2004, by Robert and Ellen Brittan, Brittan Vineyards is a name to remember. Robert, who was the winemaker and estate manager at Stags’ Leap Winery for 16 years, must be a fast learner because that winery didn’t make Pinot Noir, or if they did, it was not a focus of their production. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2015
($45): The Drouhin family, one of Burgundy’s star producers, made history when they bought land in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and started Domaine Drouhin Oregon there in 1987. Over three decades later, they remain one of Oregon’s — and America’s — leading producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. … Read more
Dusky Goose, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($65): John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. … Read more
Archery Summit, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris “Vireton” 2015
($22): Archery Summit, a top Oregon Pinot Noir producer, also makes distinctive Pinot Gris, judging from this one. It strikes the balance of subtle stone fruit flavors buttressed by vibrant acidity. They have captured the essence of Pinot Gris without falling into the trap of over ripeness. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Roserock Vineyard “Zéphirine” 2014
($60): Not surprisingly, Domaine Drouhin Oregon is following the Burgundy tradition of terroir: simply put, where the grapes grow influences the taste and character of the wine. In addition to their “home” vineyard in the Dundee Hills of the Willamette Valley, DDO has acquired an additional vineyard, Roserock, in the Eola-Amity Hills subzone of the Willamette. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): The Drouhin family, with their rich traditions and deep roots in Burgundy, made history in Oregon — and quite a stir back in Beaune — by creating Domaine Drouhin Oregon thirty years ago. Since then, other Burgundy producers have followed, but Drouhin was the first of the French to recognize the extraordinary potential in Oregon for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2013
($70): The Laurène bottling is Domaine Drouhin Oregon’s (a.k.a. DDO) reserve wine. As such, it is deeper and more concentrated, but without sacrificing refinement and elegance. While their “regular” bottling highlights the fruitiness found in Oregon, the Laurène emphasizes the gorgeous earthy leafy aspect of Oregon Pinot Noir. … Read more
Patton Valley Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate 2013
($34): At a trade tasting, I was impressed by the dramatic differences in Patton Valley Vineyard’s Pinot Noirs expressed depending on the location of the vineyard. Equally impressive is this one, blended from a variety of vineyard sites. Restrained, with more of a fruit than herbal focus, it is nicely balanced. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Though Drouhin’s Roserock vineyard, their new one in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, is focused on Pinot Noir, eleven of the 111 planted acres are devoted to Chardonnay. Laurent Drouhin notes the vineyard is at a higher elevation compared to theirs in the Dundee Hills and describes the soil as pebbly. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Maison Drouhin, the superb Burgundy-based négociant, was the first French firm to invest in Oregon when they purchased vineyards in the Dundee AVA of the Willamette Valley 20+ years ago. Over the subsequent two decades, they’ve produced a very impressive array of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from their Dundee vineyards. … Read more
Nicolas Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2014
($65): Full disclosure: I love the wines from Burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, so I could be prejudiced towards any project involving Jean-Nicolas Méo. That said, it’s hard to imagine not raving about this wine. Music mogul Jay Boberg and Jean-Nicolas have teamed up to make Pinot Noir in Oregon. … Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Two Messengers” 2013
($30): Perhaps the “Two Messengers” tag reflects the collaboration between Burgundy’s Louis-Michael Liger-Belair and the Willamette Valley. Or perhaps it’s the combination of two complementary flavors — ripe fruit and savory nuances. Whatever the origin of the name, the wine is easy to recommend because it does bring together the Janus-like essence of Pinot Noir, with bright red fruit notes harmonized with earthy complexity. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): Ponzi, one of the pioneers in the Oregon wine industry, continues to show that Pinot Noir is well-suited to Willamette’s climate and soil. Whereas their Tavola bottling focuses more on bright fruit, the Willamette Valley label has the near magical combination of smoky savory nuances to complement the dark fruit notes. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2011
($60): Dick Ponzi was one of the Oregon wine pioneers when he and his wife established their winery and vineyard in 1970. At the time, scarcely anyone thought Oregon was a place to grow Pinot Noir. Well, he was correct, as Ponzi’s Pinot Noirs have shown over the years. … Read more
Jadot in Oregon: Another French Invasion?
Jadot’s seemingly sudden expansion into Oregon was, as Pierre Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, describes it, “a perfect storm,” though a good one in this instance.… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2012
($32): The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship. The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Estate Reserve 2009
($0): Given the limited production of this single vineyard wine, it will be hard to find. But it’s surely worth the search. Lange Estate makes impressive wines from purchased fruit, but this one shows the great heights they achieve when they use their own. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Reserve 2011
($35): Judging by their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, Lange Estate is a name to remember. This one shows the paradox of Pinot Noir — powerful yet delicate. Its power is in its persistence and layered flavors of fruit and earthiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2011
($20): I was not familiar with the wines from Lange Estate Winery until a recent tasting in Boston. That was a mistake I’m glad I’ve now corrected. This perky Pinot Gris has vivacity that harmonizes perfectly with its subtly spiced pear-like flavors.… Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir 2011
($19): It’s hard to find drinkable Pinot Noir under $20 a bottle, which is why it was such a pleasant surprise to run across Erath’s. Drawn from grapes grown all over Oregon, this mid-weight wine emphasizes delicate red fruit nuances. Hints of spice add complexity and prevent it from seeming like a boring, one-trick-pony of a wine. … Read more
The Four Graces, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2012
($20): The Black family purchased an existing vineyard in the Dundee Hills in 2003, immediately started to transform it and named the winery after their four daughters. This graceful (no pun intended) Pinot Gris shows the beauty of that varietal and is a classic example of it. … Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2009
($21): Tempranillo, Spain’s leading premium red grape, is a recent addition to Oregon vineyards. Judging from this example, growers will be planting more. Juicy and fruity, Abacela’s has a pleasant tang that gives it structure and prevents it from coming across as jammy. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Emery” 2008
($45): WillaKenzie bottles several vineyard designated Pinot Noir each year. For some wineries, vineyard designation is simply a marketing tool. Not for WillaKenzie. Their single vineyard wines are distinctive and unique. Slightly more power and concentration sets WillaKenzie’s Emery Vineyard bottling apart from their Aliette bottling (previously reviewed). … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Aliette” 2008
($48): WillaKenzie Estate, one of Oregon’s leading Pinot Noir producers, has several single vineyard bottlings, all of which are distinct in character. The Aliette delivers far more complexity without additional weight compared to their very good multi-vineyard blend, labeled Pierre Léon. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Pierre Léon” 2008
($35): WillaKenzie is one of Oregon’s great Pinot Noir producers. This one, Pierre Léon, is blended from grapes from all of their vineyards and gives an insight to their finesse-filled style. Delicate more than overpowering, this mid-weight, elegant Pinot Noir delivers fresh red fruit–raspberry-like flavors mixed with leafy nuances.… Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2008
($34): Ponzi is one the leaders in Oregon Pinot Noir. Their Reserve bottling is consistently top-notch because they make only about 1,500 12-bottle cases of it. The lesser quality fruit goes into their two lower tiers of Pinot Noir. This Reserve has an exciting combination delicate fresh red fruits and leafy savory notes. … Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Albariño 2011
($18): Abacela has focused on Spanish varietals, starting with Tempranillo, since their founding. They first made Albariño about a decade ago, when hardly anyone was familiar with this variety from Spain’s Rias Baixas region. There’s still little Albariño planted in the US and what is planted is rarely turned into wine of this caliber.… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2008
($48): Under the masterful leadership of Véronique Drouhin, the wines from the Domaine Drouhin Oregon (a.k.a. DDO) has gotten better and better since their first vintage, 1988. Part of the credit goes to time. The vines are older and now over 90% of the grapes for the Pinot Noir come from their vineyards. … Read more