Kumeu River, owned by the charming and humble Brajkovich family, is arguably New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producer. Founded in 1944, they started making fortified wines and gradually transitioned to high quality still wine with, of all things, Müller-Thurgau, and eventually landed on Chardonnay.… Read more
Category Archives: New Zealand
Kumeu River, North Island (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Kumeu Village” 2022 ($25, Wilson Daniels)
If someone can find a better $25 Pinot Noir, please tell me. Until then, just buy this stunning one by the case. Although the wine is labeled Kumeu Village, the grapes come from Hawke’s Bay where they purchased vineyards in 2017, not being able to expand around Kumeu because of its proximity to Auckland.… Read more
Wither Hills Winery, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023
($15, Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners): Here is an example of why New Zealand — specifically Marlborough — Sauvignon Blanc has captured the world’s attention. It delivers a delightfully cutting and invigorating lime-like edginess that cuts through any flavor on the plate, as well as the heat and humidity of summer. … Read more
Loveblock Vintners, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Tee” 2022
($22, Terlato Wines International): The owners of Loveblock Vintners, Erica and Kim Crawford, are certainly no newcomers to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, having established the very popular Kim Crawford label. Loveblock Vintners is their new venture, after selling the Kim Crawford brand to Vincor which eventually was gobbled up by Constellation Brands. … Read more
Frenzy, New Zealand () Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($15, Wilson Daniels): The Marlborough region of New Zealand’s south island is responsible for the acclaim, enthusiasm, and world-wide excitement for that country’s Sauvignon Blanc. That region does make distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. But, as this wine shows, Marlborough does not have a monopoly on distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Te Awanga Estate, Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand) Syrah 2018
($28): Yes, New Zealand makes distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. As those late-night television ads proclaim, “but wait, there’s more.” And indeed, New Zealand produces more than Sauvignon Blanc, including Syrah, as exemplified by this one. Hawke’s Bay lies on the east coast of the north island and is well suited for reds, such as Syrah and the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($33, Moet Hennessy): Over 35 years ago, in 1985, Cloudy Bay put New Zealand wine on the world’s stage with their riveting Sauvignon Blanc. They, more than anyone, were responsible for the meteoric growth and popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Year in and year out, they continue to produce a stellar example of that wine. … Read more
Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($22, Vintus Wines): Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc has been a favorite of mine since Fred Ek, owner of Ex-Cellars, their importer at the time, introduced me to it a couple of decades ago. Dog Point, still family owned, made a delightful one in 2021.… Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2020
($14, Winebow): The popularity of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough area of New Zealand’s South Island has grown enormously over the last two decades. And Villa Maria is one of the reasons. This clean and fresh Sauvignon Blanc displays an electricity-like energy that accompanies, but does not overwhelm, its subtle fruitiness. … Read more
Dog Point, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($21, Vintus): New Zealand is known around the world as a top producer of distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. And Dog Point has rapidly become one of the best producers of Sauvignon Blanc in that country. Their 2019 is stunningly good. It’s vibrant without being over the top. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (North Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2016
($21, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Though not the current release, this wine is still on the retail market broadly across the country and shows how nicely New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc can develop. A welcome mineral-like complexity has appeared a top an ever so slightly decreased hallmark vibrancy of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($13, Constellation Brands): Kim Crawford’s Sauvignon Blanc moderates its cutting nature with riper fruitier notes. It’s a softer, gentler expression of New Zealand’s signature wine, which is a wonderful introduction to the style and a great bargain.
89 Michael Apstein May 21, 2019… Read more
Wither Hills, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($14): “Bottled electricity” describes this wine. Consumers will either love it or hate because of its lapel-shaking cutting verve. Mouth-cleansing, with the characteristic grapefruit or lime-like freshness, it would be a great choice for oysters, other seafood, or sushi. Frankly, its edginess will cut through even a tomato-based seafood stew. … Read more
Teece Family Vineyards, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Sisters Ridge” 2018
($13): The Teece family, the owners of Mt. Beautiful, a top New Zealand Pinot Noir producer, have produced a lighter and more delicate style of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It still conveys the characteristic pleasant zingy bite you’d expect from New Zealand’s signature grape, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels. … Read more
Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “10 Barrels” 2015
($45): Since their founding, Mt. Beautiful has always focused on making high-quality Pinot Noir. The 2015 vintage was the first time they have produced a reserve bottling, labeled 10 Barrels, presumably because they used their top 10 barrels for the blend. It’s a wonderful Pinot Noir, showing both the fruity and savory side of that grape. … Read more
Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2016
($29, Broadbent Selections): Truly beautiful. It delivers the classic balance of earth and fruit that makes Pinot Noir a unique grape. Plenty of leafy savory notes balance dark fruit flavors in this refined wine. Fine tannins make it a joy to drink now. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017
($25): Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.” A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate. Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Dog Point, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($20): Dog Point consistently produces balanced, easy-to-recommend Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2016 is no exception. They strike a perfect balance between pungency and fruitiness while eschewing the often-found screeching aspect in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This is a Sauvignon Blanc with grace, which makes it perfect for grilled fish.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Although the Marlborough region of New Zealand put Sauvignon Blanc on the map, other regions fashion distinctive and equally enjoyable versions. Take this one from North Canterbury, a region on New Zealand’s east coast in the mid-portion of the South Island. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Chardonnay 2015
($14): The name of the winery aptly describes the wine: Beautiful. Crisp and lemony, it carries its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly. This stylish edgy Chardonnay has a green apple-like vivacity to support its mid-weight body. It works as a stand-alone aperitif or a fitting accompaniment to simply grilled fish.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2015
($18): The winery’s name describes its 2015 Pinot Gris — beautiful. It delivers a hint of pear-like spice and textural sensation buttressed by an enlivening structure. It has real depth and length. Not a watery Pinot Grigio or a heavy Pinot Gris, it delivers freshness and body. … Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($20): Whitehaven has fashioned a slightly more restrained style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It’s still clean and fresh, with an attractively pungent bite, but, thankfully, does not shake you with electrifying verve. In a word, they’ve achieved a lovely combination of fresh herbal notes and lime-like acidity. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Wild Grace” 2014
($26): Love the wine, hate the marketing. Kim Crawford’s Wild Grace Chardonnay is one of their wines in a category that they refer to as “small parcels.” In short, they cull the best grapes from their best vineyards to make a reserve-style wine. … Read more
Sauvignon Republic, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($10): Need a wine to cut through summer’s heat and humidity? Here it is — and a bargain to boot. Cutting and zingy, it will electrify the palate. Don’t drink it as a stand-alone aperitif, but reach for it when you’re having spicy Asian fare.… Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2014
($20, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Craggy Range remains one of New Zealand’s top producers, producing a consistently stellar range of wines, including this Sauvignon Blanc. The winery has always focused on single vineyard bottlings. It produces two Sauvignon Blanc, this one and one from Avery vineyard in Marlborough on the country’s South Island. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Icon” 2014
($18): New Zealand continues to be the go-to country for outstanding Sauvignon Blanc at reasonable prices, such as this one from Nobilo. Nobilo’s 2014 Icon provides pungency without screaming. It’s deep with hints of tropical fruit flavors and long with acidity that electrifies without overwhelming, which means it’s balanced. … Read more
Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2014
($26): Though not terribly complex, it’s hard to find authentic Pinot Noir at this price, which is why anyone with an interest in this varietal should embrace this bottling. It delivers light, bright red cherry-like flavors enrobed by mild tannins, making it an excellent choice for current drinking. … Read more
Babich, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2013
($18): The Marlborough region of New Zealand, though famous for its unique and electrifying style of Sauvignon Blanc, is not a one-trick pony, as this Pinot Noir clearly shows. A lighter style of Pinot Noir, it delivers a delightful combination of red fruit, savory notes and spice. … Read more
Amisfield, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2012
($39): Central Otago, an area on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island, is making a name for itself as a place for stylish Pinot Noir. Despite its more southerly locale (which should be cooler in the Southern Hemisphere), the Pinot Noirs from Central Otago are riper and more powerful than those for other areas of New Zealand, such as Marlborough and Martinborough because the area is more inland with fewer maritime influences. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($15): Although the vast majority of Sauvignon Blanc coming from New Zealand is produced in the Marlborough regions, other areas of that country make excellent examples with slightly different character. This one, for example, from North Canterbury achieves a lovely balance by being a touch broader with fractionally less grassy pungency. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2011
($21, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): New Zealand is clearly known for their electrifying Sauvignon Blanc, but this wine shows that country has vinous diversity. From a Bordeaux blend — Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec — Craggy Range has produced a gorgeous wine. … Read more
New Zealand Wines: An Update
Although still focused primarily on Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand is showing a lot of vinous diversity these days, both with that variety and with other grapes. In the cellars, winemakers are branching out by using oak barrels for fermentation and aging of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Coddington Vineyard 2012
($42, Wilson Daniels): In my experience, Kumeu River is the best New Zealand Chardonnay producer. Of course, I’ve not tasted every Chardonnay coming out of that country, but it’s hard for me to believe there’s a better overall producer of that varietal in New Zealand than Kumeu River. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2012
($28, Wilson Daniels): With this Pinot Gris, Kumeu River, justifiably known for their fantastic line-up of Chardonnay, shows they know how to transform other varieties into top-notch wine. It’s a unique Pinot Gris, falling somewhere between the lighter styled Italian version and the heavy ones from Alsace. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Hunting Hill Vineyard 2012
($50, Wilson Daniels): Though Kumeu River’s 2012 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is distinct from the winery’s other bottlings, it has the balance and precision for which that producer is known. Showing more minerality than Kumeu River’s Coddington Chardonnay, it could pass for a Grand Cru Chablis because of its density.… Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Maté Vineyard 2012
($48, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River’s Maté Vineyard Chardonnay, named for the patriarch of the family, is always their boldest and most complexity offering. The 2012 fits that description. Although richer and bigger than the winery’s other Chardonnays, it remains perfectly balanced without sacrificing any freshness or verve. … Read more
Peter Yealands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2014
($16, Palm Bay International): There’s no doubt that the Marlborough name is associated with edgy Sauvignon Blanc. Peter Yealands’ Pinot Gris shows this New Zealand appellation is not a one-trick pony. Definitely in the Pinot Gris (as opposed to the lighter Pinot Grigio) style, it delivers richness offset by tingling acidity. … Read more
Peter Yealands, Awatere Valley (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Yealands Estate Single Vineyard 2013
($25, Palm Bay International): The Marlborough region is composed of two principal valleys, the more well-known Wairau, home to Cloudy Bay as well as many others with broad name recognition, the Awatere, just to the south. Leigh Alderton, Vice-President of Sales for the USA for Peter Yealands, describes it as being cooler, drier, and windier, producing smaller grapes with more concentrated flavors. … Read more
Giesen, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($14): Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand now enjoy a world wide reputation for quality and for the palate electrifying zing they deliver. What’s unusual is to find one with those qualities at this price. Giesen’s 2014 has an alluring lime-like citrus character that gives it Marlborough’s hallmark cutting edginess, while not screaming or assaulting the palate. … Read more
Jackson Estate, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Stich” 2013
($20): The name of the wine, Stich, pays tribute to the Stichbury family who planted the vines almost 30 years ago, almost an eternity for Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough. The distinctive, piercing Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc aroma and bite is readily apparent. … Read more
Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($26, Vintus): The pleasant pungency and palate awaking electricity clearly defines the origin of Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc. But what puts it a cut above many Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is a subtle richness and great length. The result is a lively wine — that’s not shrill — with depth and an appealing subtly creamy texture. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Estate 2011
($34, Wilson Daniels): The grapes for this wine come from better-situated vineyards, either theirs or ones they manage. Indeed, they select the best fruit for this Estate bottling with the lesser quality grapes going into their excellent and very well-priced “Village” bottling, which, at $20 a bottle, is one of the best Chardonnays I’ve had at that price. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Maté’s Vineyard 2011
($52, Wilson Daniels): Readers know I am an enthusiastic fan of Kumeu River’s wines. For me, this one, named in honor of the patriarch of the family, is always their best. It holds that position in 2011. It conveys the all-too-often elusive balance of richness and vivacity, with just the right amount of each. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Hunting Hill 2011
($45, Wilson Daniels): I admit it — I am an unabashed fan of Kumeu River’s Chardonnays, which I think are the best overall coming out of New Zealand. Surprisingly, they’re in Auckland — the wine region, not the city — one of the country’s smallest wine areas, responsible for a whopping 0.2 percent of the country’s wine production, and most of that is red. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Taylors Pass Vineyard 2010
($42, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Villa Maria has managed to capture both the sweet fruitiness and the savory aspect of Pinot Noir in this single vineyard bottling. Paradoxically, even the savory elements have a purity about them. The fine tannins provide needed backbone without being intrusive. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2013
($12, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): A stunning bargain, Villa Maria’s “entry level” Sauvignon Blanc is piercing in an attractive way. From its aromatics to its delightful tartness and cutting edge, it awakes the palate. It’s a straightforward wine that may be too angular for some to drink as an aperitif, but its electricity makes it perfect for sushi, Asian fare, or grilled fish dribbled with olive oil. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Chardonnay Taylors Pass Vineyard 2011
($42, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Villa Maria’s 2011 Taylors Pass Chardonnay stands with New Zealand’s best examples of wine made from that grape. It has an alluring flinty, almost smoky aroma, followed by substantial weight, but no heaviness. The flavors penetrate the palate while paradoxically floating above it. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Reserve 2008
($45, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): It’s rare to find a Pinot Noir with this complexity and refinement at this price. With five years of age, it has developed beautifully. Leafy, even slightly mushroom-y, flavors are in the foreground pushing the bright fruit flavors of a youthful wine into a supporting role. … Read more
Mount Nelson, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($18, Wilson Daniels): Ludovico Antinori, who with his brother Piero established Mount Nelson Winery in 2003, knows a thing or two about Sauvignon Blanc, having made an outstanding one at Ornellaia in Bolgheri for many years. In addition to the typical, easily recognizable pungency and bite you’d expect from a Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region on the northern tip of New Zealand’s south island, the 2012 Mount Nelson has a subtle, but mouth-filling creaminess. … Read more
Kumeu River, Aukland (New Zealand) Chardonnay ‘Village’ 2011
($20, Wilson Daniels): I’ve not tasted all the Chardonnays from New Zealand, so I can’t say that Kumeu River is that country’s top producer of that varietal. But I can say that I haven’t found a better one from that country yet. … Read more