Category Archives: Italy – Tuscany

Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Filetta di Lamole” 2021 ($47)

Although based in Panzano, Fontodi, one of the top Chianti Classico producers, also makes a small amount of wine from another area of Chianti Classico, Lamole, whose higher elevation imbues wines from the locale with a different, a racier, profile. Using organically grown grapes, the gorgeous 2021 Filetta di Lamole combines dark cherry-like fruitiness with an earthy minerality.… Read more

Poggio al Tesoro, Vermentino Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy)“Solosole” 2022 ($25, Maze Row Wine Merchant)

The grapes for this Vermentino come from Bolgheri, an area on the Tuscan coast well-known of red wines made from Bordeaux varieties. Well, it turns out that Vermentino does well there too, as this wine shows. Good acidity balances the floral and subtle melon-like notes, making it a fine choice as an aperitvo as well as a good match for grilled white fish.… Read more

San Felice, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Grigio” 2020 ($55)

Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southern-most of Chianti Classico’s UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, or Additional Geographical Unit) is home to San Felice’s Chianti Classico property and helps explain the ripe, dense quality to this stunning Gran Selezione. What makes the wine sing and stand apart, however, is complementary herbal and mineral notes combined with fabulous and balancing enlivening acidity.… Read more

Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto di Campolungo 2019 ($54)

Gran Selezione sits at the pinnacle of Chianti Classico quality pyramid, above Riserva. Regulations for Gran Selezione require that the grapes must come from the producer’s estate, but not necessarily from a single vineyard. In this case, they do, from the Campolungo vineyard that Lamole di Lamole believes produces exceptional Sangiovese.… Read more

Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2021 ($17)

Frescobaldi’s energetic Nipozzano is emblematic of the wines from Chianti Rùfina, a small, rugged high elevation area less than 10 miles east of Florence and often called a mountain Chianti. Predictably, given Frescobaldi’s stature and capabilities as a producer, this mid-weight 2021 Nipozzano sings with a combination of fruit and herbal nuances.… Read more

Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021 ($26, VOS Selections)

Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften.… Read more

Tenute Silvio Nardi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($36, Kobrand)

Rosso di Montalcino, sometimes called “Baby Brunello,” can come from vineyards designated for Brunello—usually declassified Sangiovese that didn’t make the cut—or vineyards that are presumably less well situated and reserved strictly for Rosso. Nardi, a top Brunello producer, uses Sangiovese from young vines in Brunello-designated vineyards as well as Sangiovese from Rosso vineyards to produce this charming and fresh wine.… Read more

Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021

($26, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva.  The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively.  Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Taneto” 2021

($25, VOS Selections):  I was unfamiliar with the Pisa-based producer, Badia di Morrona until their Italian public relations firm sent me samples.  After tasting a trio of their wines, I’m glad I’ve been introduced!  Taneto, a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Merlot, delivers both dark fruit and a “not just fruit” character that makes it very appealing. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “VignaAlta” 2019

($42, VOS Selections):  With their N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows how well Bordeaux varieties do in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri.  With VignaAlta, they show that Sangiovese reigns supreme in Tuscany.  Racy and elegant, the youthful 2019 VignaAlta is show stopping.  Sure, red and dark cherries, the signature of Tuscan Sangiovese, are evident but more emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Read more

From Decanter Magazine: Capezzana’s Trefiano: Quintessential Carmignano

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of Trefiano – Tenuta di Capezzana’s stunning take on Carmignano Riserva – a vertical tasting of a handful of vintages ranging from 1988 to 2019 (the current release) was held in Florence this February.

In preparation for the tasting, I opened a bottle of the 2015 from my own cellar, so I have included my impression of that below, along with the wines from the tasting.… Read more

Argentiera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio al Ginepri” 2022 

($25, Volio Imports):  This ripe, 14.5 percent stated alcohol, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend delivers up-front fruitiness wrapped in plush tannins and supported by a touch of firmness that prevents it from being flabby.  Good acidity and a hint of bitterness in the finish keep it in balance though the overt fruitiness still predominates at this stage. Read more

Chianti Classico: A Perennial Favorite

Tasting through hundreds of Chianti Classico wines from the 2020, 2021, and 2022 vintages over two days reminded me why Chianti Classico is, justifiably, so popular around the world.  The setting for the tastings was the venerable — and quite enormous — train station in Florence where every year the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (the organization that represents producers) presents some 700-plus samples of Chianti Classico spanning several recent vintages and all quality levels. 
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Capezzana, Toscana Rosso (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2019

($60):  The Contini Bonacossi family owns Capezzana, Carmignano’s best producer.  Ugo Contini Bonacossi, who transformed the property from the typical sharecropping agricultural endeavor of the era, into the current modern wine and olive oil producing estate, adored a particular small Sangiovese vineyard that he thought consistently produced exceptional grapes. Read more

Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle” 2020

($19, Volio Imports):  Villa Cerna is the home, and one of the estates, of the Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany.  Primocolle — literally, first hill — comes from vineyards at lower elevations on the estate.  The bright and juicy 2020 Primocolle is a lovely, classically proportioned Chianti Classico filled with good depth and an impeccable combination of fruity and savory notes. Read more

Tenuta Calimaia, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020

($20):  Frescobaldi, a name synonymous with quality in Tuscany, has established this estate in Montepulciano.  It’s really a return to Montepulciano for them since Leonardo Di Niccolò Frescobaldi was the town’s mayor in 1390.  The exquisite 2020, their second vintage, is, in a word, gorgeous, melding black fruit that borders on tarriness with minerals. Read more

Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018

($52):  Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed.  Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. Read more

Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018

($52):  Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed.  Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. Read more