Piaggi, another of the leading producers of Carmignano, has made a positively brilliant 2022 Riserva. The legal definition of Riserva is additional aging prior to release. Practically, however, Riserva in Carmignano, and most other DOCGs, indicates a better wine made with better grapes that will improve with additional aging.… Read more

Barco Reale di Carmignano fits the Italian “rosso” category, as in Rosso di Montalcino, a fruit-forward rendition of a structured age-worthy wine. Capezzana, a leading producer in Carmignano, has fashioned a fragrant and refined one, filled with red cherries counterbalanced by earthy savory notes.… Read more

Capezzana opts to hold back several thousands of bottles that they then release at a decade of age because they know that Carmignano, and not even the Riserva, needs plenty of time to show its complexity. Of course, they’re correct. From a recent tasting of their Villa di Capezzana that showed wines back to their first vintage, the 1925, it was abundantly clear that Carmignano, like other great wines, needs time to develop and show their stuff.… Read more

Vin Ruspo is, for lack of a better word, dialect for “stolen wine.” It originated during the sharecropping era in Tuscany. At the end of the day, the farmer would hold the last barrel of harvested grapes overnight before taking them to the landowner’s winery the next morning.… Read more

Carmignano requires the inclusion of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese, producing a substantial and structured young wine, capable of virtually unrivalled development with proper aging. Well, Fabrizio Pratesi’s 2021 Carmignano Riserva can serve as “Exhibit A.”… Read more

Regulators carved Lamole, the smallest of Chianti Classico’s UGAs (unità geografica aggiuntiva, additional geographic units) out of Greve because its high altitude and rock-laden soil has the potential to make unique and distinctive wines. Lamole di Lamole, by far the largest producer in the UGA with more than one-third of the total acreage, has done just that with their Duelame Chianti Classico.… Read more

A step up from “Duelame” bottlling is Lamole di Lamole’s pure Sangiovese Riserva. From a single vineyard that sits at almost at the pinnacle of elevation at which Sangiovese can ripen (400 to 500 meters above sea level), Lareale focuses on minerality and firmness rather than fruitiness, though enticing black cherry notes are noticeable in the background.… Read more

Gran Selezione sits at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. The wines must be aged for 30 months, compared to 24 for Riserva, and come entirely from the producer’s own vineyards. Lamole di Lamole opts to make two Gran Selezione wines, both from single vineyards, Vigneto Campolungo and this one, Vigneto Grospoli.… Read more

Sophie Ginervra Conte took over the family estate, Tregole, with the 2015 vintage and has been refining the wines ever since. Her father had planted Merlot, but she decided the wines are better without it, so it is no longer included in the blend.… Read more

Tregole’s 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva, made from older vines planted in the 1980s, has more muscle and complexity than their annata without losing any elegance. It shows the value of old vines and Sophie’s talents. The Riserva captivates with similar aromatics after which the youthful profile takes over.… Read more

Tregole’s Gran Selezione, made entirely from Sangiovese, comes from a single vineyard planted in the 1970s, which abuts the vineyard they use for their Riserva. Despite the proximity, the wines are very different, which also may be a result of vintage.… Read more

Monsanto, an outstanding Chianti Classico producer and no relation to the agribusiness company, has fashioned a superb Riserva in 2020. Regulations for Chianti Classico Riserva require more extended aging (24 months versus 12 for the annata) before release. But practically, Riserva means a better wine that can benefit from additional aging.… Read more

As this wine shows, Chianti Classico remains the “go-to” category for well-price, high-quality wines that are ready to drink. This organic beauty from Radda delivers bright herbal notes that complement its minerality. Succulent black cherry fruitiness and vibrancy complete the package.… Read more

Those who are familiar with my preferences know that I eschew pink wine and opt for chilled light reds when the occasion calls for a rosé. Rosato of Sangiovese from a top producer, such as this one from Rocca di Montegrossi, could change my paradigm.… Read more

Il Borro, one of the Ferragamo estates, is located in Valdarno di Sopra, one of the four areas delineated by Cosimo di Mèdici in 1716 as the site for fine wine, a sort of initial DOC, if you will. The aromatic and stately Vigna Polissena, Il Borro’s flagship, shows the power and elegance of Sangiovese in this, now, real DOC.… Read more

Although based in Panzano, Fontodi, one of the top Chianti Classico producers, also makes a small amount of wine from another area of Chianti Classico, Lamole, whose higher elevation imbues wines from the locale with a different, a racier, profile. Using organically grown grapes, the gorgeous 2021 Filetta di Lamole combines dark cherry-like fruitiness with an earthy minerality.… Read more

The grapes for this Vermentino come from Bolgheri, an area on the Tuscan coast well-known of red wines made from Bordeaux varieties. Well, it turns out that Vermentino does well there too, as this wine shows. Good acidity balances the floral and subtle melon-like notes, making it a fine choice as an aperitvo as well as a good match for grilled white fish.… Read more

Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southern-most of Chianti Classico’s UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, or Additional Geographical Unit) is home to San Felice’s Chianti Classico property and helps explain the ripe, dense quality to this stunning Gran Selezione. What makes the wine sing and stand apart, however, is complementary herbal and mineral notes combined with fabulous and balancing enlivening acidity.… Read more

Rosso di Montalcino is a terrific introduction to the more prestigious and age-worthy “big brother” category of Brunello di Montalcino. Although Rosso is made from the same grape—Sangiovese—and similar terroir—vineyards in and around Montalcino—the wine is more approachable in its youth than its more respected elder.… Read more

Gran Selezione sits at the pinnacle of Chianti Classico quality pyramid, above Riserva. Regulations for Gran Selezione require that the grapes must come from the producer’s estate, but not necessarily from a single vineyard. In this case, they do, from the Campolungo vineyard that Lamole di Lamole believes produces exceptional Sangiovese.… Read more

Frescobaldi’s energetic Nipozzano is emblematic of the wines from Chianti Rùfina, a small, rugged high elevation area less than 10 miles east of Florence and often called a mountain Chianti. Predictably, given Frescobaldi’s stature and capabilities as a producer, this mid-weight 2021 Nipozzano sings with a combination of fruit and herbal nuances.… Read more

Chianti Classico is the heart of the broader Chianti area as well as its most famous appellation, extending from the outskirts of Florence to the outskirts of Siena. Although the subregion of Classico and Rufina rightly garner lots of acclaim, this wine shows that good value can be found in the broader Chianti region.… Read more

Wines from the subregions of Chianti, like Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina, often overshadow the wines from Chianti. Well, it’s a mistake for consumers to ignore wines labeled Chianti, a broad region with its own DOCG that can be home to excellent wines.… Read more

Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften.… Read more

Badia di Morrona packs unusually good depth into their Vermentino. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it fresh and balances its weight. This Vermentino has real substance so uncork it with creatures from the sea that are swimming in a hearty sauce.
92 Michael Apstein – Dec 25, 2024… Read more

Carmignano, a small DOCG, just northwest of Florence, requires the blending of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. Regulations require Barco Reale to be made from the same grapes as Carmignano grown basically in the area. Think of Barco Reale di Carmignano as a Rosso.… Read more

This stellar Brunello comes from a single vineyard in the northwest section of the DOCG, near their estate. In a word, it is fabulous. It has everything you’d expect from great young Brunello—minerals and dark savory fruitiness packaged in a firm, yet not hard, frame.… Read more

Rosso di Montalcino, sometimes called “Baby Brunello,” can come from vineyards designated for Brunello—usually declassified Sangiovese that didn’t make the cut—or vineyards that are presumably less well situated and reserved strictly for Rosso. Nardi, a top Brunello producer, uses Sangiovese from young vines in Brunello-designated vineyards as well as Sangiovese from Rosso vineyards to produce this charming and fresh wine.… Read more

Combine a top Brunello producer, Tenute Silvio Nardi, with a top Brunello vintage, 2019, and the result is unsurprisingly sensational. Captivating floral aromas pull you in and then, wham, a balance of firm, dark, cherry-like flavors and a marvelous minerality holds your attention.… Read more

($20, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona packs unusually good depth into their Vermentino.  Saline-tinged acidity keeps it fresh and balances its weight.  This Vermentino has real substance so uncork it with creatures from the sea that are swimming in a hearty sauce.… Read more

($26, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva.  The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively.  Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. … Read more

($18, VOS Selections):  Wines from the subregions of Chianti, like Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina, often overshadow the wines from Chianti.  Well, it’s a mistake for consumers to ignore wines labeled Chianti, a broad region with its own DOCG that can be home to excellent wines. … Read more

($38, VOS Selections):  With N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows that a Bordeaux blend can be successful outside of Bolgheri. Bright and floral, N’Antia conveys the same striking fruit and “not just fruit” flavor combination as the Taneto, albeit with a more graceful, less chunky profile. … Read more

($25, VOS Selections):  I was unfamiliar with the Pisa-based producer, Badia di Morrona until their Italian public relations firm sent me samples.  After tasting a trio of their wines, I’m glad I’ve been introduced!  Taneto, a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Merlot, delivers both dark fruit and a “not just fruit” character that makes it very appealing. … Read more

($42, VOS Selections):  With their N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows how well Bordeaux varieties do in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri.  With VignaAlta, they show that Sangiovese reigns supreme in Tuscany.  Racy and elegant, the youthful 2019 VignaAlta is show stopping.  Sure, red and dark cherries, the signature of Tuscan Sangiovese, are evident but more emerges as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more

($30, Vintus):  Ornellaia is one of Italy’s iconic and greatest wines.  They produce a second wine, Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, that is made from young vines or from grapes that just don’t make the cut to be used for Ornellaia itself. … Read more

($110):  With Giorgio Primo, Giampaolo Motta, the owner of La Massa, shows that Bordeaux varieties do well in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri.  The sumptuous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, grown at their estate in Panzano in the heart of Chianti Classico, consistently thrills. … Read more

($76, Oz Wine Company):  Do not be put off by the vintage — not a great one for Chianti Classico — nor the late release, which is the current one for this top producer.   Their Riserva, made entirely from Sangiovese, comes from their best vineyards and spends two to three years in barrel aging prior to bottling. … Read more

($25, Volio Imports):  This ripe, 14.5 percent stated alcohol, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend delivers up-front fruitiness wrapped in plush tannins and supported by a touch of firmness that prevents it from being flabby.  Good acidity and a hint of bitterness in the finish keep it in balance though the overt fruitiness still predominates at this stage. … Read more

($24):  Badia a Coltibuono provides another compelling argument for the joys Chianti Classico in general.  Their luscious and well-priced 2020 delivers an ideal combination of dark cherry-like fruit balanced by savory or herbal nuances, while weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more

($28):  The wines from the higher, and therefore cooler, elevations, like Lamole, turned out especially well in 2020, another year with a hot and dry growing season.  Lamole’s cooler climate imbued the wines, such as I Fabbri’s, with a firmness and freshness that balances the dark cherry-like nuances. … Read more

($60):  The Contini Bonacossi family owns Capezzana, Carmignano’s best producer.  Ugo Contini Bonacossi, who transformed the property from the typical sharecropping agricultural endeavor of the era, into the current modern wine and olive oil producing estate, adored a particular small Sangiovese vineyard that he thought consistently produced exceptional grapes. … Read more

($18):  Rùfina, the smallest of the Chianti subzones, is mountainous and wild.  The wines, like this one, have an appealing wildness and refinement.  Frescobaldi, Rùfina’s largest and most important producer, never falters, which means that this 2020 delivers more than its price suggests. … Read more

($21):  The ready-to-drink 2020 Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico shows why Chianti Classico is so popular.  Lip-smacking acidity acts as the foil for its succulent black cherry-like fruitiness.  Subtle spice common to Chianti Classico adds appealing complexity, preventing monotony.  Mild tannins lend support without intruding. … Read more

($32, Volio Imports):  I reviewed this wine last year and jumped at the chance to revisit it since it is still available at the retail level.  Spoiler alert — I like it just as much.  As a reminder, the Cecchi family has two distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa, both in Castellina in Chianti. … Read more

($33, Volio Imports):  The Cecchi family purchased the Villa Rosa estate in 2015 because it was an ideal site for Sangiovese. The focus is to make a Gran Selezione, the category at the tip of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid.  I suspect this Chianti Classico comes from grapes that did not make it into the Gran Selezione. … Read more

($19, Volio Imports):  Villa Cerna is the home, and one of the estates, of the Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany.  Primocolle — literally, first hill — comes from vineyards at lower elevations on the estate.  The bright and juicy 2020 Primocolle is a lovely, classically proportioned Chianti Classico filled with good depth and an impeccable combination of fruity and savory notes. … Read more

($27): Giampaolo Motta acquired the 67-acre estate located in the Conca d’Oro in Panzano, the heart of Chianti Classico.  Instead of making Chianti Classico, he opted to blend traditional Bordeaux grapes with the native Sangiovese.  Some would call his wines Super Tuscan. … Read more