($34, Vintus): What a difference between varietal Sauvignon Blanc and the taste that grape imparts to the wine depending on where it is planted. Here in Collio, Attems Sauvignon Blanc speaks far more strongly to the place rather than the grape. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Friuli Venezia Giulia
Jermann, Friuli Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022
($25): If Jermann’s captivating Pinot Grigio was your first experience with Pinot Grigio, it would be easy to understand the popularity of the category. Alas, few Pinot Grigio have the character of Jermann’s. Subtly aromatic, Jermann’s refreshing 2022 Pinot Grigio has appeal that belies its lightweight density. … Read more
Attems, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Cicinis” 2020
($34, Vintus): This mid-weight Sauvignon Blanc shows that where the grapes grow, Collio in this instance, matters. The energetic Cicinis subtly combines the characteristic pungency of Sauvignon Blanc with a delicate creaminess. A hint of bitterness in the finish balances appealing floral and peachy elements. … Read more
I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021
($35): This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi. In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity. I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more. … Read more
Zorutti, Collio DOP (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020
($15): Italy produces roughly 40 percent of all Pinot Grigio even though that grape is not native variety to that country, according to Daniele Cernilli, one of the world’s experts on Italian wines. As it has become an extremely popular wine in the U.S.,… Read more
Genagricola, Friuli DOC (Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Poggiobello” 2020
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): Anyone who wants to know why Pinot Grigio became so popular should taste this wine. And then lament that more PG, as it is sometimes known, doesn’t deliver this much enjoyment. Its fresh and white flower aromas are immediately captivating. … Read more
Livon, Friuli Colli Orientali (Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020
($16, Angelini Wine Company): Though an entirely different style of Pinot Grigio from the Poggiobello (also reviewed this week), Livon’s is equally enjoyable. It transmits the barest hint of copper color that comes from normal coloration of the Pinot Grigio grape when there has been some skin contact during fermentation. … Read more
Russiz Superiore, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019
($27, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Marco Felluga, the man in charge at Russiz Superiore, is a good name to remember for top-notch wines. In addition to a seductive texture, this 2019 Friulano has good power without a trace of heaviness. Nuances of orange-rind poke through and complement its fruitiness and spice. … Read more
Colmello di Grotta, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2018
($17): Ribolla Gialla, a late ripening variety, is typically the last white grape harvested, sometimes even after the first of the reds are ripe. Despite that, it holds its acidity exceptionally well. It’s a misunderstood variety because it can be transformed into two very different styles of wine. … Read more
Livon, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Bianco “Cavezzo” 2018
($40): Pinot Bianco often makes light, innocuous wines. Not this one. Livon’s 2018 Cavezzo has weight and an alluring texture. A hint of grapefruit-rind bitterness in a lively finish enhances its appeal. This stylish Pinot Bianco has surprising complexity and could redefine the category for you. … Read more
Russiz Superiore, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019
($27, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Marco Felluga, the man in charge at Russiz Superiore, is a good name to remember for top-notch wines. In addition to a seductive texture, this 2019 Friulano has good power without a trace of heaviness. Nuances of orange-rind poke through and complement its fruitiness and spice. … Read more
Colmello di Grotta, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2018
($17): Ribolla Gialla, a late ripening variety, is typically the last white grape harvested, sometimes even after the first of the reds are ripe. Despite that, it holds its acidity exceptionally well. It’s a misunderstood variety because it can be transformed into two very different styles of wine. … Read more
Vigna Petrussa, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019
($30): The leadership of this family-owned winery is unique. Hilde Petrussa, the current director, is the third generation of female directors. This Friulano is equally unique. It has good weight, stone fruit character, all supported and balanced by excellent acidity. A ying and yang of a subtle creamy richness and hint of bitterness in the finish just makes it just that much more appealing.… Read more
I Magredi, Friuli Grave DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($17, Seaview Imports): Most people don’t think of northeastern Italy for Cabernet Sauvignon. Indeed, Friuli Venezia Giulia is home to some of Italy’s best white wines. But, some Cabernet — both Sauvignon and Franc — are grown on the well-drained gravelly soil, which gives its name to the DOC (Friuli Grave). … Read more
I Clivi, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Venezia Giulia, Italy ) Bianco 2016
($35): Ferdinando e Mario Zanusso of I Clivi (which means the slopes) make superb wines. Their Clivi Galea is a single vineyard with 70-yesr old vines (according to their website) located on the southern tip of the appellation, near the Slovenian border.… Read more
I Clivi, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Venezia Giulia, Italy ) Bianco 2016
($35): Ferdinando e Mario Zanusso of I Clivi (which means the slopes) make superb wines. Their Clivi Galea is a single vineyard with 70-yesr old vines (according to their website) located on the southern tip of the appellation, near the Slovenian border.… Read more
Castello di Spessa, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2017
($21): Consumers can be excused if they are confused regarding the name of this grape. Formerly it was called Tocai Friulano, but the Hungarians objected that this dry white wine might be confused with their legendary sweet wine, Tokay (Tokaji), so they won a regulatory ruling that forced the Italians to change the name. … Read more
Schiopetto, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2016
($30): White wines of Italy are often overlooked because of the stature of the country’s reds. Schiopetto, one of the top producers in the Collio, shows the heights that white wines can achieve in Italy. This 2016 Friulano amazes with its lanolin-like texture.… Read more
Jermann, Friuli DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017
($23): Pinot Grigio has become so popular that, for many, it is a commodity, as in “I’ll have a glass of Pinot Grigio…” with no sense of site or producer. The result is that a bevy of innocuous watery Pinot Grigio have diluted (no pun intended) the wine’s reputation. … Read more
Eugenio Collavini, Friuli Colli Orientali (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla Turian 2016
($25): I love the sound — ree-bow-la jala — when ordering this wine. The only problem is the plethora or styles — barrel fermented, orange or this beautifully fresh and vibrant version by Collavini. There is no warning on the label alerting the consumer to the style, so once again, it’s producer, producer, producer. … Read more
Eugenio Collavini, Vino Spumante di Qualitá (Friuli, Italy) Ribolla Gialla Brut 2014
($20): You’re excused if you’ve never heard of the Ribolla Gialla grape, which is unique to the Fruili region in northeastern Italy and adjacent Slovenia. Even most of those who have heard of the grape don’t realize that it can be used for sparkling wine as well as still. … Read more
Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Buying Pinot Grigio, one of America’s most popular white wines, is like walking through a mind field. With so many vapid examples on retailers’ shelves, it’s hard for a consumer to know how to choose. Well, you can start with this one by Pighin. … Read more
Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Pighin’s Pinot Grigio, made from grapes grown in the Collio region of Friuli, is even more impressive that there Grave bottling. It has more of everything — concentration and finesse — without becoming overblown or blowsy. … Read more
Zuani, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Vigne” 2013
($23): This charming white is an unusual blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. It’s a blend that somehow works, delivering a subtle whiff of white flowers, melon-like nuances and crisp balancing acidity that add vibrancy. Overall, it has a softer, gentler profile that makes it work equally well before or with dinner.… Read more
Livon, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($17, Angelini Wine): With all the mediocre examples of Pinot Grigio on the market, it’s understandable that those consumers really interested in wine just avoid the category entirely. As is often the case, price doesn’t separate the wheat from the chaff with many vapid ones occupying the same price point as this commendable one. … Read more