($22, Dark Star Imports): Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s great white wines and justifiability deserves its DOCG designation. The volcanic Campanian soil and the region’s climate allow the grape to shine. The emphasis of Petilia’s 2019 is on a lava-like minerality rather than fruitiness. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Campania
Donnachiara, Taurasi Riserva DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2017
($50): Taurasi remains an underappreciated DOCG. Those unfamiliar with the wines from the volcanic soil in this part of Campania need to discover them. Donnachiara’s is a good place to start. Made entirely from the Aglianico grape, it has a tarry power that belies its modest, 13.5 percent stated, alcohol. … Read more
Villa Matilde, Falerno del Massico DOC (Campania, Italy) 2016
($32, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Falerno del Massico, a small (not even 250 acres) DOC in Campania, retains appeal, in part, because Falerno was considered the great wine of ancient Rome. With its lava-like underpinnings, Villa Matilde’s, made from a traditional Campania blend of Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso, reflects its origins at the foot of the volcano, Roccamonfina. … Read more
Villa Matilde, Campania IGP (Italy) Aglianico “Rocca dei Leoni” 2017
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Aglianico, the grape known for heavyweight wines, such as Taurasi, bottled under screwcap? Who would have guessed Aglianico-lite would work — but, in Villa Matilde’s hands, it does. This light to mid-weight red (not a description used very often for Aglianico) delivers engaging hints of tar alongside fine tannins. … Read more
Cantina Sanpaolo, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2017
($20, Enotec Imports, Inc): Greco di Tufo, one of Italy’s premier white grapes, is rarely found outside its home in Campania. Sanpaolo’s is an excellent example, full-bodied, yet crisp. It is mineral-infused, reflecting the lava-like residue of Vesuvius. Its acidity imbues it with energy and magnifies its charms. … Read more
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Grancare” 2016
($36, Romano Brands): Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s great white wines. This one has slightly nutty nuances and the hint of lava-like mineral notes you’d expect from its location near Mount Vesuvius. Bright and enlivening acidity tingles the palate. … Read more
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Grancare” 2016
($36, Romano Brands): Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s great white wines. This one has slightly nutty nuances and the hint of lava-like mineral notes you’d expect from its location near Mount Vesuvius. Bright and enlivening acidity tingles the palate. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Aglianico DOC (Campania, Italy) “Rubrato” 2015
($17, Terlato Wines International): Wines made from the Aglianico grape are often referred to as the Barolo of the South because of their firm tannins, high acidity, overall depth and need for bottle age to bring all the components together. Feudi San Gregorio has managed to marry these elements in this Aglianico and make it a pleasure to drink now — as long as you select the correct food and time of year. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2017
($14, Terlato Wines International): Floral and fruity with mouth-cleansing zestiness, this Falanghina is ideal for summer sipping — and drinking. Enhanced by a hint of an almost white pepper-like spice, it is a tremendous value to cut through August’s humidity and accompany light pasta dishes or simply grilled fish.… Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2015
($18, Terlato Wines International): Feudi di San Gregorio’s Greco di Tufo is less floral and more mineral-tinged than their Fiano d’Avellino (also reviewed this week), but has a similar refreshing edginess to it. A more “serious” wine, it has an engaging firmness and more of a presence on the table. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2016
($18, Terlato Wines International): Floral and clean, like fresh fruit blossoms, Feudi di San Gregorio’s 2016 Fiano conveys a lacey delicacy. Combine that with its lip-smacking acidity and you have a refreshing choice for simply sautéed — or if your grill is still functioning — grilled fish. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi Riserva DOCG (Campania, Italy) Piano di Montevergine 2011
($75, Terlato Wines International): I hate to say that an almost $75 a bottle of wine is a bargain, but, if you have 75 bucks to spend on a wine, here it is. Although Taurasi justifiably carries the DOCG accolade, it still lacks the prestige — and price — of the Tuscan or Piedmont DOCGs. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC (Campania, Italy) 2015
($15, Palm Bay International): Falanghina, the grape was named after falengae, the Latin word for the stakes the Romans used to support the vine, is my “go to” wine in Italian restaurants with modest wine lists because it almost always represents good value.… Read more
Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s signature white wines, conveys a stony, almost volcanic essence, which is not surprising since this grape grows well on Vesuvius’s soil. A tinge of bitterness in the finish buttressed by bracing acidity catapults this wine into the “easy-to-recommend” category because it’s a serious wine that delivers more than the price suggests. … Read more
Nativ, Fiano di Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($28, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Fiano is a bit more floral than their Greco di Tufo. Instead of transmitting a sense of volcanic ash, it conveys a delicate white flowery sensation. It’s also a touch weightier and more tropical than their Greco. … Read more
Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006
($80): Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times. Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.) … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) 2010
($40, Palm Bay International): There is no question in my mind that the wines from Taurasi, a small DOCG in Campania, rank with Italy’s, and the world’s, greatest wines. The Aglianico grape thrives in the climate and volcanic — it’s near Vesuvius — soil of the region.… Read more
Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006
($70, Winebow): Mastroberardino is, without doubt, one of the top producers in Campania and, indeed, in all of Italy. Their Taurasi is the benchmark for that appellation. This 2006 Riserva, amazingly still available at retail — an indication of how underappreciated these are — is sensational. … Read more
Campania’s world-class white wines
Taurasi, Campania’s best wine, has a powerful allure. Years ago, I spotted one on the shelf of a simple seafood trattoria outside of Naples, where instead of a wine list the choices were arrayed on a shelf. I asked for this sturdy red even though we had ordered grilled langoustine.… Read more