($19, Jenny & Françoise Selections): Wines carrying the Vin de France appellation can be either wonderful or awful because they need not obey any rules. The winemaker decides everything — not the appellation authorities. Some of France’s greatest maverick winemakers have turned out sensational wines using their own quirky philosophy. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Other
Domaine Ganevat, Côtes du Jura (France) Chardonnay “Rouchamps” 2018
($350): Full disclosure — I have not become enamored of the wines of the Jura because of their often-oxidized style. This one could change that because it is fresh despite having undergone four years — you read that correctly — of fermentation. … Read more
Famille Bouey, IGP Atlantique (France) “Oh La Vache” 2020
($13, Quintessential Wines): The geographic designation, “IGP Atlantique” means the grapes were grown in the vast area anywhere in the southwest of France from Bordeaux to Cognac. The Merlot (85%) in this blend brings a bright, juicy aspect, while the Cabernet Sauvignon provides just the right amount of structure. … Read more
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors (Sud-Ouest, France) “Lucter” 2018
($20, Baron François Imports): The Vigouroux family, owner of Château de Haute-Serre, is legendary in Cahors. If not the best producer in that region, they certainly rank with the top ones. Though best known as an Argentinian grape, Malbec’s origin and traditional home is the Cahors appellation. … Read more
Château de Corcelles, Vin de France (France) Gamay “Les Copains d’Abord” 2018
($18, Seaview Imports): Château de Corcelles, an historic property located just east of Villé-Morgon, produces a range of Beaujolais. They also produce this wine, entirely from Gamay, presumably, from vines that are located just outside of the Beaujolais delimited zone. Though it has the charm of Beaujolais, they can’t legally call it that. … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): Unbelievable value! That’s the best way to describe this Cabernet. It displays a wonderful — and rare at this price — balance of dark fruit and savory olive-like flavors. Wonderfully textured, it’s not flabby or soft. It’s structured, but not aggressive. … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Pinot Noir 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): European regulations for naming wines are Byzantine. The top tier is labeled Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) formerly known as Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC). (A quirk in regulations allow the French to continue to use the older AOC nomenclature.) … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): Unbelievable value! That’s the best way to describe this Cabernet. It displays a wonderful — and rare at this price — balance of dark fruit and savory olive-like flavors. Wonderfully textured, it’s not flabby or soft. It’s structured, but not aggressive. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (France) “Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2017
($14): It should come as no surprise that Michel Chapoutier, one of the star producers in the Rhône Valley, can make lip-smacking, good wine elsewhere. In this case, the elsewhere is across the Rhône, further west in the south of France in Roussillon. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (La Rochelle) 2014
($33, Wilson Daniels): Château du Moulin-à-Vent sits virtually adjacent to the iconic wind-mill that gives the name to the village that many consider the top cru of Beaujolais. They, along with other top producers in Moulin-à-Vent, are intent on highlighting the differences among the vineyards. … Read more
Miraval, Côtes du Provence (France) 2014
($25): I suspect much of the enthusiasm for this wine is that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie own the property. Indeed, the Provence estate near Brignoles is where they were married. Not being a partisan of rosés, I was prepared to dismiss it as just marketing hype with its Champagne-like bottle and perfect pink color that could have been chosen by an interior designer. … Read more
Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) “M” 2014
($25): Much like the Médoc and other parts of Bordeaux, the French, in 1955, established an official classification of the estates of Provence, awarding 14 properties, including Château Saint-Maur, Cru Classé status. Judging from their lineup of 2014s, they deserve the accolade. … Read more
Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) “L’Excellence” 2014
($45): “L’Excellence,” the mid-range rosé from Château Saint-Maur, is broader and more refined than their “entry” level wine, “M.” As enjoyable and satisfying as M is, L’Excellence is a clear step up. Zesty acidity, characteristic of all their wines, imbues this rosé with life and gives it a real presence.… Read more
Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) Clos de Capelune 2014
($60): It’s not the blend that explains the quality and uniqueness of the Clos de Capelune rosé from Château Saint-Maur, since it has a similar varietal make-up to the “L’Excellence” bottling — both are a blend of mostly red grapes (Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre) with a touch of Rolle.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, IGP Ardèche (France) Chardonnay “Grand Ardèche” 2012
($15, Louis Latour USA): Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Burgundy négociant founded over 200 years ago, branched out into the Ardèche, a sleepy area of central France, 25 years ago to have a go with Chardonnay there. It was their first venture outside of Burgundy and continues to be a resounding success because of the outstanding value of the wines they produce there. … Read more
Domaine du Tariquet, Côte de Gascogne (Gascony, France) Chenin – Chardonnay 2010
($9, Robert Kacher Selections): Domaine des Salices, another François Lurton estate, makes a lovely array of wines from the Languedoc region in the southwest of France. Taking advantage of the looser regulations of the Vin de Pays designation (as opposed to the stricter appellation controllée rules), they sell the wines using varietal names. … Read more
Domaine Cazes, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) 2007
($15, Robert Kacher Selections): The attractive strength of this Muscat de Rivesaltes is the dominant floral and orange-scented aromatics and flavors. The flavors are fresh and fruity with subtle citrus notes, 15% alcohol and good length through the fruity finish. Drink now. … Read more
Pierre Archambault, Vin de France (France) Sauvignon Blanc “La Petite Perriere” 2009
($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): Guy Saget, an excellent Sancerre producer who purchased the Archambault estate, has opted to use the newly created appellation, Vin de France, for this wine made from grapes grown outside of the usual Loire appellations known for Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV
($14, Kermit Lynch): Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards. He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more
Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV
($14, Kermit Lynch): Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards. He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more
Château de Paraza, Minervois (Sud Ouest, France) “Cuvée Spéciale” 2007
($12, Russell Herman World Wines Source): This typical Mediterranean blend–Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre–delivers a pleasant combination of spice and black cherry fruit-like flavors. There’s unusual suaveness in this mid-weight wine. Mild tannins and a lively juiciness makes it an excellent choice for immediate consumption. … Read more
Prieure de Montezargues, Tavel (France) 2007
($19, Henriot): Tavel, a lovely village in the south of France, is one of the few places in the world that makes only rosé. Not a by-product of a process to beef-up a red wine, this serious rosé has more substance than most. … Read more
J & F Lurton, Vin de Pays de Côtes du Tarn (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Les Fumées Blanches” 2005
($9, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Jacques and François Lurton, sons of famed Bordeaux chateaux owner André Lurton, split from the family about 10 years ago to start their own projects, which involve making wines from around the world. Their 100% Sauvignon Blanc, Les Fumées Blanches, is always racy and balanced.… Read more
Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France) Syrah 2004
($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers.… Read more