($23):  It’s difficult to find reasonable Pinot Noir under $25 a bottle because it is a difficult grape to grow and even more difficult to turn into wine, especially if the producer doesn’t limit yield.   In this one, La Crema balances a hint of cherry-like sweetness with briary elements.  … Read more

($43):  Grgich Hills Estate is certainly among California’s leading producers across the board, and especially for Chardonnay.  Indeed, year in and year out, they produce excellent examples.  This wonderfully full-bodied wine manages to maintain balance with zippy crisp acidity and whiff of smokiness. … Read more

($95):  As much as I love Grgich’s “regular” (though there’s nothing at all regular about it) Chardonnay, this Legacy Selection is just show-stopping.  For all its power and intensity, it is amazingly refined and graceful.  The phrase, “iron fist in a velvet glove,” is usually reserved for red wines, but it is equally applicable here. … Read more

($37):  Though based in Yountville in Napa, Stewart Cellars, a family-run winery established only in 2000, finds growers in Sonoma with whom to work.  I, for one, am glad they did.  This fine Chardonnay, for example, comes from the cooler Sonoma Mountain area, which likely explains, at least in part, its finesse. … Read more

($13):  One of the great things about New World winemakers is their willingness to experiment because they are not constrained by regulations. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer (roughly 60/40) is a case in point.  Where else in the world would you find a blend of those two grapes? … Read more

($32):  Arguably, Kendall-Jackson is largely responsible for Americans’ love of Chardonnay.  So, it’s not surprising that they should expand their portfolio with site-specific bottlings of that variety.  This one, from Santa Maria Valley, delivers fruity, spiced pineapple-like flavors along with the opulence for which KJ is known.… Read more

($38):  The uniqueness of Santa Maria Valley, as a whole, stems from its east-west orientation, instead of the usually north-south orientation of most California valleys.  This orientation allows the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean direct access to the vineyards.  Indeed, vineyards just a few miles inland are considerable warmer, producing grapes and wines with different flavor profiles, than ones further west. … Read more

($31):  It’s hard to understand how one producer can master so many different wines.  But Grgich Hills does.  Their Chardonnays are iconic, certainly among California’s best.  Their Cabernet Sauvignons are thrilling and develop wonderfully with bottle age.  Even their Zinfandel charms. … Read more

($30):  A big step up from Edna Valley’s regular Sauvignon Blanc, this one, part of their Winemaker Series level, has more depth and a richer texture while maintaining vibrancy.  It enlivens the palate without being aggressive.  A balanced wine, it has a Sancerre-like sensibility. … Read more

($14):  This refreshing and straightforward Sauvignon Blanc delivers a tingling bite without being aggressive.  Clean and bright, it’s a well-priced go-to kind of wine for the heat and humidity that is about to descend.
86 Michael Apstein Jun 19, 2018… Read more

($33):  As with their splendid Cabernet Sauvignon, Jordan produces refined Chardonnay.  Crisp and creamy with a display of citrus, their 2016 Chardonnay caresses, rather than assaults, the palate.  It’s an elegantly styled Chardonnay whose charm reveals itself as it sits in the glass. … Read more

($18):  Roussanne is a grape grown in the Rhône Valley and often, along with Marsanne and Viognier, is used with to make white wines from that region.  Similar to their Syrah, what’s in the bottle is far superior to what’s on the bottle, so don’t be put off by the name. … Read more

($19):  Many people in the wine trade tell me that they avoid Cabernet Franc because it can deliver vegetal flavors if not entirely ripe.  It can.  But it can also be the basis for a spectacular wine — think Bordeaux’s Château Cheval Blanc — by providing a needed savory component. … Read more

($45):  So much Merlot is consumed thoughtlessly as a pre-dinner drink — as in “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” — that consumers could be excused if they think grape is incapable of producing serious wine.  Chappellet’s 2015 Merlot should dispel that idea. … Read more

($18):  I was predisposed to dislike the wine because of its cutesy name.  But, just as you can’t judge a book by its cover, you need to taste to fairly evaluate a wine.  This is a well-proportioned Syrah that brings black fruit, smoky and peppery notes together seamlessly. … Read more

($56):  I admire Jordan because they have never veered from their style of making refined and polished Cabernet Sauvignon.  They’ve avoided the “bigger is better” trap, and have remained focused on elegance and refinement.  Take this 2014 Cabernet.  From the moment you smell it, you know you’re in for a treat. … Read more

($34):  John Loeb, Jr, former Ambassador to Denmark, businessman and philanthropist, established Sonoma-Loeb in 1990.  The wines had always been made at Chappellet Vineyard and Winery, so when Chappellet purchased the property in 2011, nothing really changed — the wines are still top-notch. … Read more

($30):  Jed Steele has a long history of making fine wine in California so my enthusiasm for this wine is not surprising.  Steele purchases grapes from the Goodchild Vineyard which is located just across the river from the famed Bien Nacido vineyard (He also makes a Pinot Noir from grapes grown in that vineyard.) … Read more

($68):  Migration, yet another label of the Duckhorn Wine Company, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Their first wine was the 2001 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.  Now they have ‘migrated’ to other regions of California, showing that the French do not have a monopoly of terroir — the concept that the place where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine. … Read more

($68):  This one, from a different vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is the boldest of this trio of Pinot Noir and delivers more black, rather than red, fruit character.  Similar to Migration’s other offerings, its suave texture makes it extremely appealing for current consumption, though its balance suggests it will develop nicely with bottle age.… Read more

($68):  Migration’s Pinot Noir from the famed Dutton Ranch in Russian River Valley has more oomph than their Sta. Rita bottling, no doubt from slightly warmer climate.  Still, it has a lovely lacey, almost, red fruit delicacy, which to my mind is another key component of Pinot Noir — its ability to deliver flavor without weight.… Read more

($40):  Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of famed Barney Fetzer who made Fetzer Vineyards a household name in the 1990s, founded Masút Vineyard and Winery in 2009 to focus on Pinot Noir.  Their father had purchased 1,200 acres in Mendocino County, which the sons planted — they have 35-acres devoted to Pinot Noir — and eventually established the Eagle Peak appellation.… Read more

($14):  Unbelievable.  My first and second — and third — reaction to this wine.  Wine with real Pinot Noir character at $14 a bottle.  Fresh and clean, it’s a delicate, but flavorful wine that finishes ever so slightly sweet.  But fresh acidity keeps it balanced. … Read more

($20):  If you haven’t visited Buena Vista since the new regime came to town, you should definitely stop in and see what Jean Charles Boisset is up to with the restoration, and you can meet the Count while you’re there.  Make sure you ask him to taste you on his namesake’s wine — it’s a fitting tribute to the original Count Agoston Haraszthy, with a sassy spice profile joining bright red fruit. … Read more

($32):  Chardonnay lovers, listen up.  And those who think they don’t care for Chardonnay should also lend an ear.  There’s a delicacy to this wine that makes it very appealing.  Its fruitiness is enhanced by a hint of seductive oakiness.  It delivers richness without being overt, overdone or heavy handed. … Read more

($24):  Full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel.  So, it’s a dilemma when I come across one like this.  I don’t personally like it, but that’s beside the point.  It’s really good wine — a fine expression of Zinfandel.  Sure, it’s bold — it is Zinfandel, after all — but tips the stated-alcohol scales at under 15%, which some would say makes it a bantam-weight for that varietal.  … Read more

($35):  A touch (5%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec enhance this delightful Cabernet Sauvignon.  Filled with dark fruit and olive-like savory notes, it’s ready to enjoy now because of its fine, polished tannins.  Juicy acidity in the finish keeps it lively throughout the meal. … Read more

($42):  Although lovely herbal notes appear in this Pinot Noir, the focus is firmly footed on fruitiness.  Suave mild tannins support the juicy red fruit nuances.  The finish has a touch of sweetness, which makes the wine useful as a stand-alone glass before a meal.… Read more

($40):  Another fruit-focused Pinot Noir with good weight and a suave texture.  Not overdone in the “Pinot Syrah” mode, it finishes a touch sweet, which I suspect is due in part to its 14.5% stated alcohol.  Ready to drink now.  I’d be sure to served it ever so slightly chilled to minimize the effect of the alcohol.… Read more

($84):  Though Goldeneye’s Pinot Noir from the Confluence Vineyard conveys more fruity elements than earthy ones, savory nuances appear and add complexity.  Supple tannins lend support without intruding and bright acidity keeps it fresh.  A touch of heat in the finish compared to their other single vineyard bottlings tempers my enthusiasm. … Read more

($84):  Goldeneye, one of Duckhorn’s many labels, has captured the delicacy and charm of Pinot Noir with this single vineyard bottling.  Delicate, red fruit flavors dance on the palate.  Beautifully balanced, subtle bitter notes in the finish complement the sense of sweetness from its fruitiness. … Read more

($84):  Goldeneye’s single vineyard bottlings actually reflect the difference in sites.  Theirs is not a marketing ploy.  This one, for example, is denser and more concentrated, conveying more black rather than red fruit, compared to one from The Narrows Vineyard.  Yet it still conveys the delicacy that makes Pinot Noir so alluring. … Read more

($84):  Showing that you can never judge a wine by the numbers, Goldeneye’s Gowan Creek Vineyard bottling weighs in at a hefty 14.9% stated alcohol yet does not finish hot.  Nor is it overdone.  Indeed, it’s a balanced mixture of black fruit flavors and earthy savory ones. … Read more

($45):  Unlike a Riserva in Italy, Reserve on a label on a California wine has no legal meaning.  A winery can, and sometimes does, label their entire production, all several million bottles, as “reserve.”  Not so with Rodney Strong.  In this case, the winemaker selects the best barrels in the cellar and blends them to create a Reserve bottling. … Read more

($19):  Consumers often avoid Pinot Blanc because they are disappointed by the light weight, often innocuous wine made from that grape.  Well, if you’ve been one of those, you’ll want to grab this one to know what real Pinot Blanc tastes like. … Read more

($24):  The unusual blend here, roughly 30 percent each of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Chardonnay, with Viognier and Muscat Canelli contributing the rest, works well.  Subtle aromatics are intriguing and lead you into a wine with hints of stone fruits and a glossy texture. … Read more

($19):  Viognier is a tough grape to turn into wine.  It needs adequate ripeness to express its floral character, which often is accompanied by high alcohol from higher sugar levels.  Its traditional home is in Condrieu in the Rhône Valley.  Jed Steele has mastered it in Lake County. … Read more

($50):  Cuvaison was one of the early wineries to discover the virtues of Carneros, one of the coolest areas of Napa Valley.  They planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir there 40 years ago and have enormous experience with how those varieties fare there. … Read more

($14):  This well-priced Chardonnay is another excellent value from J. Lohr.  Overt, but not oily or overdone, it weighs in at a modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, which helps explain its balance.  Fruity and toasty flavors predominate and make it a crowd-pleasing choice for broiled fish.… Read more

($14):  J. Lohr has managed to combine a pleasing pungency tempered by a subtle sweetness in this Sauvignon Blanc.  Nicely priced, it could do double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or as an accompaniment to a roast chicken.  A fine value.… Read more

($85):  I suppose you could call Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst their second wine.  The grapes used to make it come from their vineyards, presumably those that don’t make the cut for their flagship Spottswoode Cabernet, along with purchased fruit.  The incredible quality of this wine shows just how fabulous a producer Spottswoode is. … Read more

($28):  This Cabernet shows the diversity of wines coming from Dry Creek Vineyard.  Compared to their 2013 Meritage (also reviewed this week), this Cabernet Sauvignon has more of everything — more alcohol (14.5% stated), more power, more concentration and more fruit dominant flavors. … Read more

($30):  This is classic example of how less is often more.  Weighing in at a modest 13.5% stated alcohol, this blend of Bordeaux grapes displays a panoply of black fruit and savory flavors.  There’s a hint of cassis-like notes and an olive-like nuance among others. … Read more

($17):  Those looking for “killer” Zinfandel should look elsewhere, which probably explains why I like this wine.  It’s a balance of black fruit flavors, spice and a touch of herbal notes wrapped in soft plush tannins.  Not flamboyant, it’s a good choice for burgers, barbeque or a pepperoni pizza.… Read more

($34):  This mid-weight wine is a delight, delivering charming red berry fruit-like flavors intermingled with earthy herbal notes.  A blend of Grenache (95%) and Syrah, it positively dances on the palate.  Tannins are mild, but provide plenty of structure and the bright acidity keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more

($32):  Long known for their non-traditional blends of red grapes, Paraduxx has released a white wine made from a non-traditional blend of white grapes:  Rhône varieties, Viognier (65%), Roussanne and Marsanne (7%), with Chardonnay (28%).  Floral and fruity, this mid-weight wine would be a pleasing stand-alone aperitif. … Read more

($100):  Nickel & Nickel’s State Ranch Cabernet, from a vineyard just down the road from Oakville in Yountville, is similarly ripe and intense as their Sullenger.  But it’s rounder and more supple than the its brother from Oakville.   A combination of dark black fruit and mineral-like nuances makes for an appealing ying and yang of sweet and savory flavors. … Read more

($28):  The winery’s press release describes this wine as “a non-traditional blend.”  That’s an understatement.  With Zinfandel (44%), Merlot (29%), Malbec (15%), Petit Verdot (7%), rounded out with Riesling, it is like no blend I’ve encountered.  But that’s one of the things that great about New World wine — people are not afraid to experiment. … Read more

($100):  What I love about the Nickel & Nickel Cabernets is how they are all different.  Despite the same winemaking team using the same grape variety, the wines offer different flavor profiles, which supports the concept of terroir — that somehow the soil, climate, and exposure in the vineyard determines the character of the wine. … Read more

($80):  Paraduxx is Duckhorn’s winery and label best known for non-traditional blends of California grapes, such as Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.  With the 2014 vintage, they have introduced some “foreign” grapes into the mix.  For this one, they borrow a South Australian concept of blending Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Syrah. … Read more