($50): Named after their grandchildren, Joseph and Lila, this is a gorgeous Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (59%), Merlot (27%), Petit Verdot (9%) and Malbec. Though each varietal adds character, it’s a seamless blend with no one component dominating. Juicy and succulent fruit flavors are interwoven with earthy mineral notes. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – California
Jordan, Alexander Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
($52): Jordan has been known for finesse-filled wines since their first release, the 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon, in 1980. Winemaker Rob Davis and owners Tom and Sally Jordan have never veered from that style despite the movement toward riper, more massive Cabernet by most of the California wine industry. … Read more
Scott Family Estate, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir 2008
($39): This lovely California Pinot Noir has plenty of upfront bright fresh fruit–almost candied–flavors. But in addition, it delivers whiff of complementing leafy delicacy. Not a Burgundy, nor should it be, it’s a true reflection of Pinot Noir in Monterey County.… Read more
Acacia, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2007
($24): Acacia specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, producing several single vineyard bottlings of each. This one–not one of their single vineyards offerings, but rather a blend from several sites–should not be overlooked. Most Pinot Noir selling at this price can’t compare with this one for complexity and enjoyment. … Read more
Scott Family Estate, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir ‘Dijon Clone’ 2007
($39): There are a plethora of Pinot Noir clones, each of which produces grapes with slightly different characteristics. Although the Dijon clone originated in Burgundy, this wine emphasizes the ripe, fruit-driven style of Pinot Noir rather than the savory component often found there. … Read more
Frei Brothers, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($24): This classic California Cabernet is easy to recommend and explains why that category remains so popular. Herbal elements balance the fresh ripe fruit flavors. Polished tannins and good acidity lend support without being intrusive. It’s a lovely choice for grilled or sautéed beef.… Read more
California Chardonnay: A Paradigm Shift
It may be odd that I, a confirmed Francophile with a special affection for Burgundy, should be extolling the virtues of California Chardonnay.
But it’s true. Don’t think I’m comparing California–or any New World Chardonnay–with Burgundy. I’m not. Burgundians insist their wines are vehicles for transmitting the flavor of the vineyard–a.k.a. … Read more
Fetzer Vineyards, California (United States) Chardonnay “Valley Oaks” 2008
($9): Fetzer, which made its name with well-priced wines, continues to do so with this bargain priced Chardonnay. Not an overdone style, it manages a delicate balance–especially hard to accomplish at this price range–between oak nuances and subtle tropical fruit flavors. … Read more
Terre Rouge, California (United States) Syrah “Les Côtes de l’Ouest” 2005
($18): Winemaker and owner Bill Easton bottles his wines made from Rhône grapes–Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier–under the Terre Rouge label, using the eponymous name for those made from other varietals. All of the vineyards that produce grapes for this wine face west, hence its name, Les Côtes de l’Ouest. … Read more
Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation. But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet. Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2007
($30): With Clos du Val’s location in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley and owner Bernard Portet’s Bordeaux heritage, it’s not surprising that they make superb Cabernet Sauvignon. What continues to surprise me–although it shouldn’t since they have been doing it consistently over the years–is how good their Pinot Noir is. … Read more
Are Stags Leap District Wines Unique?
Everyone seems to agree that the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley is unique because of its topography, climate and soil. The question remains whether that uniqueness translates into distinctive wines that reflect the site.
To test the theory, I spent two days in the Stags Leap District comparing the same vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon made from grapes grown in the Stags Leap District to those made from grapes grown in other California locales. … Read more
American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): Do They Make Sense?
Americans have never been particularly adept at geography. Since most would fail to locate Kansas on an unlabeled map of the United States, how would they fare with finding Chambolle-Musigny? This is why the American practice of naming wines by grape name is so successful for marketing
However, winemakers everywhere–from California to France–insist that wine is ‘made in the vineyard,’ and that location matters.… Read more
Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard 2006
($25): Certainly compared to the Robert Young Chardonnay (reviewed this week and previously), this is a full-blown–yet not ‘over the top’–Chardonnay. A buttery, toasty quality seems to magnify the ripe tropical fruit flavors. Adequate citric-like acidity holds it all together and despite the richness and power, it’s not over done. … Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) Estate Vineyard “Lila’s Cuvée” 2006
($40): Named after the granddaughter of Clos La Chance owners Bill and Brenda Murphy, this unusual blend–Grenache (40%), Syrah (20%), Carignan and Alicante Bouchet (15% each), Cinsault and Petite Syrah (5% each)–actually works to produce a wine with depth and complexity. … Read more
Robert Mondavi, California (United States) Meritage “Private Selection” 2006
($11): Those who complain that California cannot produce a lovely inexpensive wine need to try this bargain priced beauty. A Bordeaux blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), it has far more complexity–not just a gooey fruit bomb–and class than its price tag predicts. … Read more
Clos de Bois, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot 2005
($20): The aromatics accurately predict pleasure. Supple, without being soft, this ripe and succulent Merlot is a winner. It has surprising complexity for a $20 wine, showing nuances of wet earth, herbal notes, and a touch of chocolate. The impeccable balance betrays the 14.5% stated alcohol.… Read more
Stuhlmuller Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($36): This satisfying Cabernet delivers spicy and herbal elements that balance the lush, almost sweet, black cherry-like flavors. Ripe, but not over the top, the wine is balanced structurally by mild, finely polished, tannins that keep it in check. It’s a good choice for current consumption.… Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Estate Vineyard Meritage Red Wine 2005
($50): Clos LaChance uses all five of the traditional Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc) grown in their home vineyard for their Meritage red wine. Despite a hefty dollop (almost 20%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec (12%), which helps explain the wine’s deep color and weightiness, it’s a well-balanced wine showing nicely integrated oak, black fruit-like flavors and spice even at this youthful stage. … Read more
Saintsbury, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2006
($35): A blend from 15 different vineyards scattered throughout Carneros, this is a classic expression of Pinot Noir from that region. It’s a balanced mixture of pure–but not sweet–red fruit flavors with hints of spice and earthy, savory notes. Mild, supple tannins allow for immediate enjoyment. … Read more
Robert Stemmler, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Ferguson Block 2005
($44): The Ferguson Block, located on the Sonoma side of Carneros, is part of Stemmler’s estate that was planted in the 1970s. The age of the vines undoubtedly contributes to the lovely complexity of the wine. Like all good Pinot Noir, this wine delivers more than just sweet fruit flavors, although there are plenty of those. … Read more
Saintsbury, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Brown Ranch 2006
($60): Richard Ward, one of the owners of Saintsbury, believes this is their ‘best estate vineyard.’ As good as their multi-vineyard Carneros blend is (also reviewed this week), the Brown Ranch bottling just has more of everything while maintaining impeccable balance. … Read more
Acacia, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2006
($28): Acacia has an excellent and well-justified reputation for their Pinot Noir. This one, their ‘entry level’ wine, comes from fruit grown in several vineyards (as opposed to their several single vineyard bottlings) and represents a good introduction to their style, which combines subdued fruitiness with an alluring earthiness. … Read more
Cakebread Cellars, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($49): Although it is sourced from a relatively cool region, Carneros, which borders San Pablo Bay and is often blanketed by a cooling fog, this wine’s ripeness suggests a warmer area. This robust Pinot Noir combines pleasing, but slightly heavy, flavors of dried and fresh black cherries. … Read more
Ceja Vineyards, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($40): The Ceja family represents the American dream. The family emigrated from Mexico in the 1960s, worked hard in Napa Valley vineyards, saved money and in the 1980s, bought land in Carneros, where they now produce this mid-weight stylish Pinot Noir. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($55): Goldeneye is Duckhorn’s estate in Anderson Valley. It focuses on Pinot Noir from single vineyards, as well as this one, which is made from grapes from a variety of sources. A ripe and concentrated style of Pinot Noir, this one stops short of landing in what I refer to as ‘Pinot Syrah’ category. … Read more
Sobon Estate, Amador County (California) Primitivo Reserve 2006
($24): Primitivo, according to many authorities, is the European equivalent of Zinfandel. With briary deep black fruit flavors, Sobon’s version is certainly Zinfandel-like. Big and almost overblown, it has an attractive rusticity. Spicy oak and slight heat in the finish–15.1% stated alcohol speaking-definitely means you’ll want this wine on a cold winter’s night.… Read more
Montevina, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Terra d’Oro” 2005
($18): This juicy Zinfandel carries the stated 14.5% alcohol well without notes of over ripeness or excessive extraction. Briary nuances balance the dense black fruit flavors. Still, it’s a big wine that Zinfandel fans should enjoy. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008… Read more
Renwood, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Grandpère” 2004
($40): Grandpère is the name of the vineyard, which according to Renwood has the oldest clone of Zinfandel in California. The age of the vines (130 years) certainly explains the uncommon complexity and subtlety–for Zinfandel–found in the wine. The heat in the finish of this robust–15.5% stated alcohol–Zinfandel sadly detracts from the otherwise lovely layers of ripe fruit, spice and even tobacco-like nuances.… Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2006
($35): Domaine Carneros, the California outpost of the Champagne firm Taittinger, makes excellent sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, so it comes as no surprise that they should also try their hand at still wines from those varietals. Their Estate Pinot Noir, the lower of two tiers of Pinot, emphasizes the pure, cherry-like fruit aspect characteristic of many California renditions of this grape variety. … Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “The Famous Gate” 2006
($68): This wine, Domaine Carneros’s super-duper cuvee, undoubtedly a blend of their best barrels, has the graceful marriage of fruit and earth flavors you’d expect from a top-end Pinot Noir. It shows more complexity and haunting non-fruit nuances, but less of the direct sweet cherry-like flavors than their regular ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2005
($60): Often times Cabernet-blended wines show more complexity than wines made from any of the single Bordeaux varieties. The flavor profile of Merlot or Cabernet Franc, in particular, seems to be an especially well-suited foil to Cabernet. But in this case, Rodney Strong’s Symmetry–a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Malbec (3%)–takes a back seat to their excellent Alexander Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005
($50): Although this concentrated style of Cabernet emphasizes ripe primary fruit, it is not overdone or over-extracted. Mellow tannins complement the sweet succulent fruit. At this stage, it lacks complexity, but since it is balanced, additional flavors will likely emerge over time, so there’s rush. … Read more
Bonny Doon Vineyards, Central Coast (California) Syrah “Le Pousseur” 2005
($18): A blend of 94% Syrah with the remainder comprised of Grenache, this wine speaks to the plummy, ripe style of Syrah as opposed to the peppery, spicy style that grape can also exhibit. It’s thick and rich without being heavy-weighing in at ‘only’ 13% alcohol–thanks to lively, blackberry-like acidity. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($50): Since its establishment three decades ago, Jordan has always been rightly known for its elegantly proportional Cabernets. The 2004 vintage is no exception. The dark fruit flavors have a curious combination of depth and delicacy. An elusive hint of cigar box-like smokiness adds intrigue, while fine tannins support the entire package.… Read more
Truchard, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004
($28): Truchard had fallen off my screen, but this Merlot–along with their Zinfandel and Chardonnay–reminded me that they make stylish wines. Truchard avoids the solo note of bright ripe fruit flavors by incorporating alluring herbal, leafy and earthy elements into this serious Merlot. … Read more
Redwood Creek, California (United States) Merlot 2006
($8): One of the many Gallo labels, this straightforward–but good–wine challenges the proposition advanced by Michael Franz, my colleague at WRO, that California fails to produce many good inexpensive wines. At a minimum, it is one wine that can be chalked up as a win for California. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Zinfandel 2005
($25): Carneros has the reputation as an area for producing fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot. After tasting this wine, perhaps Zinfandel should be added to the list. But then again, it’s not your typical Zinfandel. It certainly has the slightly jammy, distinctly grapey flavors mixed with spice characteristic of the variety. … Read more
Robert Mondavi–The Patriarch of California Wine
No person has had as great an influence on California wine–and how the world viewed it–as Robert Mondavi. Andre Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards’ legendary winemaker from 1938 to 1968, made great Cabernet Sauvignon–and less well realized, but no less great–Pinot Noir. Ernest and Julio Gallo sold more California wine (and their company still does) than anyone else. … Read more
Redwood Creek, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($8): Part of the Gallo empire, the Redwood Creek Cabernet is an excellent value. Ripe–but not sweet–mid weight red fruit flavors dominate and are balanced by a hint of supple tannins. It’s a simple everyday Cabernet at the right price. 84 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008… Read more
Laetitia, Arroyo Grande (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($60): Those who complain that California Pinot Noir is simply sweet cherry juice need to try this wonderfully complex wine. Laetitia’s ‘regular’ Pinot Noir is very good and easy to recommend, but if you run across this one, their single vineyard bottling, go for it. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Syrah “Black Chinned” 2005
($18): This lovely blend of mostly (77%) Syrah-the remainder is Grenache (12%), Mourvedre (5%), Carignan (4%) and Petite Syrah (2%)–delivers a harmonious balance of black and red fruit flavors complemented by spicy notes. Mild tannins add needed support, and uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) Zinfandel “Buff-Bellied” 2005
($18): Another in their line of Hummingbird names–Buff-Bellied–this Zinfandel gets added complexity from inclusion of small amounts of Petit Syrah, Primitivo and Alicante Bouchet in the blend. Still plenty ripe, with hints of jammy flavors, delightful spice keeps it from being overdone.… Read more
Blackstone Winery, California (United States) Merlot 2006
($12): This friendly wine has the plush ripe forward fruit character that has made Merlot so popular. But, in addition, it conveys nuances of an earthy leafiness that add more complexity than you’d expect at the price. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 22, 2008… Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot “Vintner’s Reserve” 2005
($19): Year in and year out, KJ does it. Blending wine from grapes grown in Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma Counties, Kendall-Jackson walks the line between a sipping ‘aperitif’ Merlot and one with sufficient structure and stuffing to accompany food. Accessible, upfront, cherry-like fruit makes it easy to drink a glass before dinner, but richness and good weight buttressed by supple tannins and good acidity makes it a fine choice with a meal.… Read more
Let’s Copy the French
If imitation is the greatest form of flattery, then we should flatter the French. Not by copying their wines, but by copying how to show them to the public.
Those who know me or have read my columns know that I love French wines, especially Burgundy.… Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) “Crimson Topaz” Meritage 2005
($18): Clos LaChance has chosen the hummingbird as their symbol, which explains why many of their wines, such as Crimson Topaz, carry their names. This artful blend of primarily Merlot (63%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), Cabernet Franc (11%)–the remainder is Malbec and Petit Verdot–delivers grace and finesse. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($35): Although the emphasis in this wine is on sweet, lush, California fruit flavors, earthy and smoky elements add complexity. Its elegance is marred only slightly by heat of alcohol apparent in the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008… Read more
Clos du Bois, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot Reserve 2004
($22): Tasted side-by-side with their regular–North Coast–Merlot, the superiority of the Reserve bottling is readily evident and, in my mind, worth the extra four dollars. As expected, it has more sweet fruit flavors, more apparent oak aging and more supporting tannins. … Read more
Cycles Gladiator, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($11): I’ve never been enamored of the label of this brand, owned by Hahn Estates, the high quality Monterey-based winery. But the wine in the bottle shows very well in blind tastings and consistently offers excellent value. This 2005 Pinot Noir continues in that vein, delivering an alluring earthy/leafy component atop bright fresh red fruit flavors.… Read more