($35): Though best known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Grgich makes a stylish and dare I say, refined, Zinfandel.  It has plenty of up-front fruit and briary spice, as befitting a Zinfandel.  But what sets it apart is its lack of flamboyance. … Read more

($60): If anyone needed additional proof (I don’t) that Grgich Hills is a brilliant producer — one of California’s best — they should try this Petite Sirah.  It’s a category I try to avoid judging at wine competitions because most Petite Sirah are massive and ponderous, lacking finesse and complexity I value and look for. … Read more

($28): Though their wines are consistently among the best in Napa Valley, Clos du Val is not — and never was — a “cult” winery.  All their wines have the same grace and balance of this Chardonnay.  It’s toasty and rich without being oaky or obnoxious. … Read more

($38): Judy Jordan founded J Vineyards and Winery in 1986 and has been making stunning sparkling wines every since.  Its grapefruit-tinged nuances impart a pleasantly cutting edginess.  This fresh and floral style of rosé works well as an invigorating aperitif or as an accompaniment to smoked salmon or scallops in a decadent cream sauce.… Read more

($32): I’ve had so many excellent vintages of Merry Edwards’ Sauvignon Blanc that I should no longer be surprised.  But I am because I still associate her with stellar Pinot Noir and only few producers anywhere in the world show their talents with both grapes. … Read more

($25):  Laetitia could be considered a pioneer in Arroyo Grande Valley having planted their vineyards over 30 years ago.  They make a line of distinctive vineyard-specific Pinot Noir.  This one, a blend from their vineyards, delivers a whiff of herbal elements that adds great interest to this otherwise classic fruit-focused California Pinot Noir. … Read more

($45): William Hill’s Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon represents a blend of wines made exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in their best vineyards, according to Ralf Holdenried, their winemaker.  Similar to their Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which contains a dollop of other varieties, this Bench Blend is dense and dark with a harmonious interplay of herbs and black fruit and an appealing bitterness in the finish. … Read more

($30): This is serious Merlot — dark and dense with even chocolate nuances.  And a touch of leafiness, just to reinforce it is real Merlot.  The tannins are polished, but it’s not a soft wine, so I wouldn’t recommend sipping it before dinner. … Read more

($62): The age of the vines — the vineyard’s 40 years old — shows in this wine’s complexity and refinement.  It combines the brightness and liveliness character of Edwards’ Sonoma Coast bottling with the intensity of her Georganne Pinot Noir.  What’s most amazing is the way it unfolds in the glass, revealing more and more pleasure over a couple of hours. … Read more

($60): Edwards’ Coopersmith bottling is always one of her most gorgeous Pinot Noirs, perhaps because the vineyard is named for her husband.  The epitome of power and grace, this Pinot Noir combines everything you’d want from that variety — floral notes, earthy minerality and plenty of fruit. … Read more

($40): This fine wine shows the gorgeous combination of herbal and fruit — cassis — flavors that makes Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon so enthralling.   The tannins are remarkably fine for such a dark and almost brooding wine.  A refreshing even so slightly bitter finish adds to its appeal. … Read more

($39): Merry Edwards shows that the French have no monopoly on the concert of terroir.  Her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is refreshingly different from her Russian River bottlings.  It delivers bright berry-like flavors intermingled with spicy and earthy nuances.  It’s a lively and invigorating wine that combines succulence and spice without being overdone. … Read more

($57): From her youngest vineyard, which was planted in 2006, Edwards’ Georganne is a bigger and weightier wine than her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir bottling.  Conveying more black than red fruit-like flavors, it has an attractive burly presence.  Almost chewy, Edwards magically prevents it — and all her Pinot Noir — from being heavy. … Read more

($25): With their Fiddletown bottling, Renwood Winery has produced a lush and simultaneously, briary Zinfandel, filled with dark fruit flavors and spice.  It has depth and the ripe fruit notes come across as a touch sweet, but yet, overall, the wine remains in balance and not overblown. … Read more

($135): This concentrated and bold — 15% stated alcohol — Cabernet does manage to contain itself.  The breeding of Napa Valley is apparent with rich cassis-laden fruit flavors combined with haunting herbal nuances.  Tightly wound with fine, but firm tannins, the 2010 Mondavi Reserve is best cellared for several years.  … Read more

($24): With this Sauvignon Blanc, their first commercial offering, Clos du Val shows they are as talented with their whites as with their terrific reds. Pleasantly pungent with a marvelous balance of creaminess, it has lovely depth while avoiding heaviness.  Though spicy and bright, it still doesn’t shake you by the lapels but rather awakens your palate and makes you want to take another sip. … Read more

($20): Once again, location matters.  Amador County has a great reputation for Zinfandel and it shows in the character of this wine.   Fresh bright fruit flavors, dried fruit notes, and spice all come together in this bold, yet not massive, Zinfandel. … Read more

($15): There’s nothing petite about wines made from Petite Sirah.  This robust red, actually purple, wine delivers jammy fruit flavors seasoned with licorice and spicy oak.  It would work well with a hearty pasta dish.
85 Michael Apstein Oct 29, 2013… Read more

($15): This unusual blend of Zinfandel (86%) with a touch of white grapes (Roussanne, 2%) and a grape I’d never heard of (Souzao, 1%) had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes.  The remainder of the blend is Primitivo and Mourvèdre. … Read more

($20): Sweet cherry-like flavors dominate in this Central Coast Pinot Noir.  Lots of spice from oak aging and a whiff of savory notes compete with the ripe fruit flavors, but they are ultimately forced into the background by the unbridled fruitiness. … Read more

($38): Thankfully, Clos du Val retains their hallmark style of restraint and elegance with their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon.  And they do it without sacrificing intensity or weight. This wine amazes with its plethora of flavors.  There’s the expected mix of black and red fruit flavors, but there is also alluring nuances of herbs, savory notes and even olives. … Read more

($45): Location matters.  Spellbound’s Napa Valley bottling of Petite Sirah is a big step up from their less expensive “California” one.  With spicy deep dark berry scented flavors accompanied by moderate tannins, this is quintessential Petite Sirah.  Winemaker, Rob Mondavi, Jr.,… Read more

($35): Clos du Val, one of the pioneer Napa Valley wineries, fortunately has never varied from it style that values finesse over power.  Admirable restraint in this clean Merlot allows you to savor it.  Though focused on fruit flavors, an appealing earthiness, characteristic of Merlot, appears in the finish. … Read more

($23): This bright Pinot Noir showcases the ripe sweet fruit of the Russian River Valley.  Concentrated, but not over the top into the Pinot Syrah category, its polished tannins make it ready to drink.  Indeed, it could stand alone for those who relish a glass of red wine before dinner, but would also be a fine choice for roast duck.… Read more

($10): It’s hard to find a drinkable $10 Chardonnay these days.  So when I ran across one that was not only drinkable, but good, I was thrilled.  There’s no subtlety here, just rich ripe fruit and, most importantly, balance.  Easy to sip before a meal, this straightforward Chardonnay is an especially good choice when serving a crowd.… Read more

($40): Decades ago Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc for his wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It has always been one of California’s most distinctive, and the Mondavi 2011 continues that track record.  The grapes have traditionally come from the famed To Kalon vineyard near the winery and they’ve opted to now put the vineyard name on the label. … Read more

($32): Clos du Val, thankfully, has resisted the trend toward overripe, boisterous wines.  With this lacey and pure Pinot Noir, they deliver bright clean red fruit with a hint of minerality.  It is precise with delicate savory elements in the finish. … Read more

($14): This wine exemplifies why we need to regulate the term “Reserve.”  Red Rock Winery produces 40,000 cases of this Pinot Noir annually from grapes that come from anywhere in California.  That’s hardly a Reserve wine.  Slightly sweet and soft, this fruit-focused wine works perfectly as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more

($15): This is a softer and rounder style of Sauvignon Blanc with less of that varietal’s usual pungency.  You could sip it as an aperitif or match it with a take-out rotisserie chicken.
86 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013… Read more

($225): Insignia, a gloriously suave Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, remains one of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed wines.  And with good reason judging from the 2010.  An explosive wine, its glossy texture is all the more amazing considering the wine’s concentration and power.… Read more

($60): This concentrated Pinot Noir pulls it off without landing in the Pinot Syrah category because underneath all that power is refinement.  Long and layered, Foxen has delivered a ripe wine, befitting its origins, without pushing it over the top.  You’ll embrace it for its black-fruited succulence rather than its delicacy.… Read more

($50): Cakebread, known for their Napa Valley wines, has expanded to the cooler, more Pinot Noir friendly, Anderson Valley for their foray with the varietal.  While clearly a fruit-focused wine, bright acidity prevents it from being jammy or overdone.  Supple tannins enrobe the sweet dense mixture of lively red fruit flavors. … Read more

($30): With supple tannins, Martini’s Alexander Valley Cabernet is velvety in texture.  There’s far more going on in the glass compared to the Sonoma County bottling, which arguably could reflect a vintage difference.  Engaging minty nuances complement its ripe dark fruit flavors. … Read more

($12): This lightweight, fruity Pinot Noir conveys plenty of sweet cherry-like flavors without aggressive tannins.  Its supple structure allows you to enjoy it chilled.
84 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013… Read more

($53): I usually avoid describing something by what it isn’t. But this time, I’ll break my own rule. Jordan’s 2009 Cabernet is not a big, bombastic, overblown and over ripe California Cabernet. Instead it’s restrained yet forcefully flavorful, the style that Jordan has adopted since its inception 40 years ago.… Read more

($15): Most of the fruit for this attractively priced wine comes from Paso Robles, a warm region becoming well known as the place for Cabernet Sauvignon. It conveys a masterful combination of Bing cherry flavors and a subtle, but balancing, hint of leafiness that adds an intriguing “not just fruit” aspect.… Read more

($35): This substantial Pinot Noir delivers ripe red and black fruit flavors mixed with a healthy dollop of spice. A vibrant freshness, likely reflecting the cooler Carneros climate, enlivens the palate. This is a bold Pinot Noir, but not over the top, weighing in with a modest, by today’s standards, 13.9% stated alcohol.… Read more

($14): Joel Gott is what the French call a négociant. He buys grapes from growers all over the state and puts together the blend he likes. This one, simply labeled, Red Wine, comes from a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, grown in both Monterey and Knights Valley.… Read more

($14): Gott purchased grapes from five different areas — Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Lodi, Paso Robles and Lake County — to put together this beautifully balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. He has managed to combine lush black fruit nuances with mouth-watering acidity without going over the top with either.… Read more

($27): Sweet lush fruit is the clear focus of this Pinot Noir. A hint of oak ands spice and reinforces its intense style. It tastes riper than its 13.5% stated alcohol suggests. Supple smooth tannins allow for immediate enjoyment–even without food.… Read more

($26): Thanks goes to Christy Canterbury, MW, who suggested I try this wine at a recent tasting.  It’s an incredible bargain for authentic Pinot Noir.  Mary Elke and her team have captured the nuances of which the grape is capable.  It has what I refer to as the “flavor without weight” character almost unique to Pinot Noir. … Read more

($30): The Michael Mondavi Family Estate, who produces this wine, was founded after the family lost control of the Robert Mondavi winery. Though Michael, one of the sons of legendary winemaker Robert (and an extraordinarily talented winemaker in his own right), is involved in a series of projects, such as the wines under the Isabel Mondavi label, his son Rob Jr.… Read more

($30): This fleshy, supple Merlot packs plenty of ripe black fruit notes covered with suave tannins. With air, attractive leafy or earthy notes peak out and add complexity. Its refinement makes it a good choice for a rib roast.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013… Read more

($38): This lovely Cabernet marries ripe fruit and intriguing savory nuances buttressed by firm, yet not aggressive, tannins. What impresses is its restraint–not in flavor or in enjoyment–but in ripeness. As a result, a plethora of other flavors emerge as it sits in the glass.… Read more

($16):  The Arneis grape, originally grown in Piedmont and used to “soften” Barolo and now used there as a stand alone white wine, has migrated in tiny quantities to California and Oregon.  Jacuzzi has made a lively and vivacious wine from this normally low acid grape. … Read more

($45):  James MacPhail runs a small winery that focuses on Pinot Noir.  He owns no vineyards, but that doesn’t prevent him from making top-notch wine.  He doesn’t make Burgundy.  He makes Pinot Noir that is a quintessential expression of California.  In this one from Anderson Valley, a captivating perfume is followed by beautifully intertwined earthy and red fruit flavors. … Read more

($22):  Gloria Ferrer, well known for delectable sparkling wines, has made a California Pinot Noir that emphasizes elegance over sheer power.  I suspect their experience with using Pinot Noir in sparkling wine explains the finesse and relatively low–13.5% stated alcohol–in this lively wine. … Read more

($12):  Estancia manages to capture beautifully both the leafy earthy character of Merlot as well as its black fruit side.  Black cherry-like acidity keeps it fresh and vibrant throughout the meal.  The tannins are supple.  It’s quite an amazing wine for the price.… Read more

($25):  Rodney Strong was a pioneer in the Alexander Valley, showing how this part of Sonoma can make beautiful Cabernet.  This rendition continues their streak with generous, but not overdone, plum-like flavors accented with attractive herbal notes. Suave tannins lend support without astringency.… Read more

($40):  The White Stone Vineyard is the name to give to a 10-acre select hillside portion of their 150-acre estate vineyard in San Martin.  Bold, perhaps in part due to a little Malbec (5%) in the blend, this Cabernet focuses on power, but retains elegance.… Read more