($20, Robert Kacher Selection): The source–a fifth of the wine comes from the appellations of Nuits St Georges and Cotes de Nuits Village–and the 45 year average age of the vines explains why this wine is so remarkable. This very fragrant Bourgogne Rouge delivers an enchanting combination of red fruit flavors and earthy herbal notes. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton (Burgundy, France) 2010
($94, Henriot, Inc.): Philippe Prost, Bouchard’s winemaker, has outdone himself with this Corton. A beautifully structured frame supports luxuriously ripe dark fruit. Subtle bitter cherry notes emerge from beneath polished tannins. A savory component in the finish adds to the intrigue.… Read more
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Côte de Beaune Villages (Burgundy, France) 2009
($34, Becky Wasserman Selection): Lafarge, a world-renowned producer of Volnay, makes other wines, albeit in small quantities. They are so good they are worth the search, especially in the case of this Côte de Beaune Villages, which is reasonably priced, at least for Burgundy and Lafarge. … Read more
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010
($160): Although a famous Grand Cru, Clos Vougeot is the source of highly variable wines because of the vast number of growers who own vines in this famed vineyard. Indeed, the Burgundy mantra of producer, producer, producer is doubly important here because the wines are never inexpensive. … Read more
Domaines Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2009
($22, Kobrand): This Bourgogne Rouge is a real treat from Jadot
because the grapes come entirely from the domains they control: Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot, and Domaine Gagey, which explains the labeling. No purchased grapes or wine go into this bottling, which distinguishes it from Jadot’s other Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2010
($24, Vineyard Brands): Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies. They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power. And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge. It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir.… Read more
Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2010
($30): The Hautes Côtes, a far less prestigious area of Burgundy, is the source of good value wines from top-notch producers, such as Mongeard-Mugneret. This one packs a little more power than their straight Bourgogne Rouge that is coupled with a charming rusticity. … Read more
Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009
($60, Vins Divins): Not all village wines are created equal, which highlights another flaw in the French appellation system. This one towers above most village wines because of the contribution of the old vines that, for whatever reason, add a dose of complexity. … Read more
Mommessin, Clos de Tart (Burgundy, France) 2009
($485, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Domaines & Saveurs Collection): Clos de Tart is one of the most under rated grand crus of the Côte de Nuits. Located in Morey St. Denis and owned entirely by the Mommessin family, it has been producing sensational wine since Sylvain Pitiot, who is obsessed with quality, took over as cellar master in 1996. … Read more
Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “Mes Favorites” Vieilles Vignes 2009
($100, Frederick Wildman): Here’s an example of how the French appellation system breaks down. This village wine delivers more elegance and complexity than many producers’ wines from premier cru vineyards. For this wine, Burguet combines grapes from old vines located in various parcels that lie on the slope between the village and the road. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010
($15): As with the rest of Burgundy, Beaujolais had two great back-to-back vintages in 2009 and 2010. And, as with the rest of Burgundy, the styles of the two vintages in Beaujolais are very different, making it extremely difficult to choose between the two. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($16, Frederick Wildman): Stéphane Aviron describes his 2009 Beaujolais as “sunny wines” because of the warmth of the vintage. Anyone who thinks that all Beaujolais is just tutti-fruity and jammy should try his wines. Spiced with a touch of minerality, this 2009 Beaujolais Villages harbors not a hint of overt grapey flavors. … Read more
Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Petits Cazetiers 2009
($90, Frederick Wildman): Les Petits Cazetiers is adjacent to Les Cazetiers, its famous neighbor that many producers believe is the village’s best premier cru vineyard. But there’s nothing small about this wine. It’s quintessential Burgundy delivering flavor without heaviness. Leathery and earthy notes peek out from a rich, but not overbearing, assortment of red and black fruit flavors. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009
($18, Frederick Wildman): The Côte de Brouilly, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, is known for stylish wines. And this is one of them. Firm, but not hard, a classy minerality explodes on the palate. This is serious stuff. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2012… Read more
A Tale of Two Vintages
Is it hype or is it true? Do 2009 and 2010 represent back-to-back great vintages for Burgundy or is it just another case of the French crying wolf with yet more “vintages of the century?” My vote goes to truth rather than hype, although the two vintages couldn’t be more different.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Couchereaux 2009
($40, Kobrand): There should be no question about the quality of the 2009 vintage for red Burgundy. A potential criticism is that they lack structure that would allow them to develop complexity with age. Well, one sip of this wine dispels that notion. … Read more
Domaine du Château de Chorey, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009
($25, Becky Wasserman Selection): A vintage like 2009, bathed in perfect weather during the entire growing season and through harvest, was especially beneficial to the lesser appellations that in poorer years suffer from under-ripe grapes that translate into thin wines. That’s why in 2009 a low prestige category, such as Bourgogne Rouge, from a conscientious producer, like Château du Chorey, is a bargain-priced over-achiever delivering far more than you’d expect. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2009
($63): This Premier Cru is always one of Latour’s best reds from the Côte de Beaune. The house has substantial holdings in this some of the best parts of this vineyard that they purchased over 100 years ago. Those who complain Latour’s reds are diluted and not up to the quality of their white wines need to take another look. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2009
($66, Louis Latour, USA): Village wines from Gevrey-Chambertin can be among the most disappointing red Burgundies because some growers think they can get away bottling anything and selling it under that famous name. Fortunately, this is not one of them. Quite the contrary, the complexity and finesse suggest a premier cru. … Read more
A Simple Strategy for Buying Burgundy
Burgundy produces some of the world’s most exciting wines. Although many, such as those from Domaine Romanée Conti, Domaine Leroy, or Domaine Rousseau are priced in the stratosphere, affordable well-priced Burgundies do exist. But finding them can be like walking through a minefield.… Read more
Georges Duboeuf, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau des Capitans 2010
($19, WJ Deutsch): Duboeuf, often dubbed the King of Beaujolais because he controls so much of the production of that region, was the first négociant to credit the individual grower by putting growers’ names, in addition to his own, on labels. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Grand Cru Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2009
($150): The wines from Échézeaux, a large, 90-acre grand cru, are highly variable (like those from neighboring Clos de Vougeot). Although the producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, it’s doubly important when choosing Échézeaux. Jadot makes a great one, and it’s always one of their best wines.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Boucherottes 2009
($45, Kobrand): Jadot owns almost a third of this premier cru vineyard that lies in the southern part of Beaune, bordering Pommard. Though the 2009 red Burgundies are sensational across appellations, the wines from Beaune are especially engaging. It’s very floral and mineraly with sweet ripe dark fruit, plush tannins and great length.… Read more
Beaujolais Renaissance
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton (Burgundy, France) Grancey 2009
($95, Louis Latour USA): Corton is the one Grand Cru for red wine in the Côte de Beaune. A variety of vineyard names, such as Grèves or Clos du Roi, can be affixed after the name Corton. Grancey, however, is not one of those names. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2009
($83, Louis Latour USA): This is a great wine. But that’s what you’d expect from a fabulous vintage, a superb locale (you think the king gets the second best plot in Corton?) and a conscientious and talented producer. Although Latour is one of the region’s most prominent négociants, this wine comes exclusively from estate-owned plots they purchased over 100 years ago. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir 2009
($13, Jeanne-Marie de Champs): The 2009 vintage for red Burgundy is fabulous. The wines at the lower end of the prestige ladder, such as Bourgogne Rouge, will be especially attractive because the extra ripeness of the vintage helps even more at this level. … Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($13, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): Brouilly, the largest of the Beaujolais crus, is known for good, but not terribly concentrated, wines. This one clearly did read its script and shows why the locals are hailing the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais as one of the best ever. … Read more
2009 Burgundies: A First Look
The Bordelais are not the only ones licking their chops as they offer the 2009 vintage for sale. Burgundians too are smiling as they taste their 2009s currently aging in barrels. In the words of Philippe Prost, the technical director at Bouchard Père et Fils, the wines are, “La beauté du Diable,” a French idiom that roughly means “too good to be true.”… Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2007
($91, Henriot, Inc.): Bouchard has substantial holdings in Corton from which they make consistently fine examples. This is one of them. Showing its grand cru status, it conveys a core of ripe–almost sweet–fruit encircled by supple tannins. Remarkably forward, the charm of the 2007 vintage is apparent. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007
($97, Henriot, Inc.): This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard. At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation. Lighter and more forward than usual–reflective of the 2007 vintage–the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate. … Read more
Burgundy: Sorting Out the ‘0 Tens’
“Let’s taste some 0 tens,” was Louis-Fabrice Latour’s invitation as I met him in late September at the imposing Chateau Grancey, the heart of the Domaine Latour estate in the picturesque Burgundian village of Aloxe-Corton where they vinify all the reds from their Domaine. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($12, Kobrand): The 2009 vintage is likely the best the Beaujolais region has seen in decades, according to veteran producers there. It’s no surprise then, that Jadot, a top-notch Beaune-based Burgundy producer who has been investing heavily there since their purchase of Château des Jacques in 1996, made stunning Beaujolais in 2009. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007
($97, Henriot, Inc.): This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard. At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation. Lighter and more forward than usual–reflective of the 2007 vintage–the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton (Burgundy, France) 2007
($91, Henriot, Inc.): Bouchard has substantial holdings in Corton from which they make consistently fine examples. This is one of them. Showing its grand cru status, it conveys a core of ripe–almost sweet–fruit encircled by supple tannins. Remarkably forward, the charm of the 2007 vintage is apparent. … Read more
In Defense of the Burgundy Négociant
I am always surprised how many experienced Burgundy aficionados, be they sommeliers or just plain passionate consumers, overlook or denigrate Burgundy’s négociants while heaping praise on the growers’ wines. Sommeliers may shun them because of commercial reasons. Négociants’ wines are more widely available and many sommeliers prefer to list wines from small growers whose wines are difficult for diners to find in retail stores. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2008
($65, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Laurent Drouhin, one of the principals of the house, says that his father believes the 2008 Chablis are the “best of his lifetime,” because of the ideal weather during the growing season and their biodynamic farming. … Read more
Domaine Lucien Boillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cherbaudes 2006
($85, Kermit Lynch): Although the Les Cherbaudes vineyard has good neighbors, adjacent to the Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin and just down the hill from Grand Crus Chambertin-Clos de Beze and Mazis-Chambertin, it lacks the prestige of Gevrey’s best Premier Crus, Clos St.… Read more
Lucien Boillot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): Consumers tend to ignore the 2006 vintage for red Burgundy because it followed–and was overshadowed by–the sensational 2005 vintage. It’s too bad because many fine wines, such as this one, were made that year. Though from a “lowly” Bourgogne Rouge appellation, the wine delivers more than the appellation suggests because it was made by a talented producer using only his–not purchased–grapes. … Read more
Lucien Le Moine, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cazetiers 2007
($108, Vintus): Le Moine, a small négociant–his total production is only 2,500 cases–started just a decade ago, but has already made a name for himself. He works with one or two growers in each appellation focusing on Premier and Grand Crus and producing only a few barrels of each wine. … Read more
Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2007
($165, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): This pretty wine shows the grace and beauty of some 2007 red Burgundies. Floral and delicate, it’s long and balanced. But don’t for a minute think that delicate means light. No, this is classic Burgundy: flavor–savory leafy notes–without weight. … Read more
Michael Gay et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Greves 2006
($53, Martine’s Wines): Although the 2006 red Burgundies were far less consistent than the more acclaimed 2005s, many producers delivered excellent wines. Michel Gay’s Beaune Grèves is one of them. Grèves is on most producers’ short list of the best vineyard sites in Beaune. … Read more
Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name. Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006
($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label. The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors. … Read more
Burgundy on the Rise
Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage–perhaps another “vintage of the century”–even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine. That’s because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage. Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals’ enthusiasm for the vintage. … Read more
Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006
($19, Becky Wasserman Selection): Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region. This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness. Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive. It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007
($58, Robert Kacher Selections): Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise. Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable. Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more
Albert Morot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Bressandes 2007
($63, Robert Kacher Selections): Morot, who owns about 3.25 acres of the large–by Burgundy standards–(43-acre) 1er Cru Bressandes vineyard, made a classic red Burgundy from those grapes in 2007, a vintage that produced many charming forward red Burgundies. One whiff of the gloriously perfumed nose predicts good things will follow. … Read more
Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006
($26, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Less well-known towns just outside of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, such as Savigny- or Chorey-lès-Beaune (lès means near), offer consumers an excellent opportunity to savor the charms of Burgundy without taking out a second mortgage. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006
($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores. Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one. This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more