Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Beaujolais Renaissance

Six centuries after Philippe the Bold exiled the “vile and noxious” Gamay grape from Burgundy in favor of the “elegant” Pinot Noir, Burgundians are once again embracing the grape in the wines of Beaujolais. The region has long been known primarily for Beaujolais Nouveau, a beverage closer to alcoholic grape juice than wine, but is now undergoing a dramatic change as Beaune-based négociants buy vineyards and identify unique parcels for separate bottlings.
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Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2009

($83, Louis Latour USA):  This is a great wine.  But that’s what you’d expect from a fabulous vintage, a superb locale (you think the king gets the second best plot in Corton?) and a conscientious and talented producer.  Although Latour is one of the region’s most prominent négociants, this wine comes exclusively from estate-owned plots they purchased over 100 years ago. … Read more

Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007

($97, Henriot, Inc.):  This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard.  At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation.  Lighter and more forward than usual–reflective of the 2007 vintage–the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate.  … Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($12, Kobrand):  The 2009 vintage is likely the best the Beaujolais region has seen in decades, according to veteran producers there.  It’s no surprise then, that Jadot, a top-notch Beaune-based Burgundy producer who has been investing heavily there since their purchase of Château des Jacques in 1996, made stunning Beaujolais in 2009. … Read more

Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007

($97, Henriot, Inc.):  This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard.  At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation.  Lighter and more forward than usual–reflective of the 2007 vintage–the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate.  … Read more

In Defense of the Burgundy Négociant

I am always surprised how many experienced Burgundy aficionados, be they sommeliers or just plain passionate consumers, overlook or denigrate Burgundy’s négociants while heaping praise on the growers’ wines.   Sommeliers may shun them because of commercial reasons.  Négociants’ wines are more widely available and many sommeliers prefer to list wines from small growers whose wines are difficult for diners to find in retail stores. … Read more

Lucien Boillot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006

($25, Kermit Lynch):  Consumers tend to ignore the 2006 vintage for red Burgundy because it followed–and was overshadowed by–the sensational 2005 vintage.  It’s too bad because many fine wines, such as this one, were made that year.  Though from a “lowly” Bourgogne Rouge appellation, the wine delivers more than the appellation suggests because it was made by a talented producer using only his–not purchased–grapes. … Read more

Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007

($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name.  Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. … Read more

Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006

($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label.  The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors.  … Read more

Burgundy on the Rise

Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage–perhaps another “vintage of the century”–even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine.  That’s because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage.  Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals’ enthusiasm for the vintage. … Read more

Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006

($19, Becky Wasserman Selection):  Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region.  This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness.  Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive.  It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more

Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007

($58, Robert Kacher Selections):  Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise.   Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable.  Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006

($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores.  Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one.  This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more

2007: An Excellent Vintage for White Burgundies

White Burgundy fans should be very happy. The 2007 vintage produced a wide array–from Chablis to Mâcon–of excellent white wines. And the world-wide economic crisis means that prices are lower. That combination is a “perfect tranquility” for Burgundy lovers.

I reported my preliminary assessment of the vintage last fall  and update it now for the whites since they are especially appealing and are starting to arrive on retailers’ shelves.… Read more

Georges Descombes, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2006

($30): I know, 30 bucks for Beaujolais is a lot of money.  But, this is not your father’s grapey rendition.  Louis Dressner manages to find Beaujolais producers who make distinctive wines.  Those of you skeptical of the genre–that includes Michael Franz, my colleague and editor at WRO–really ought to try wines like this one. … Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Grancey” 2006

($120, Louis Latour Inc.): Corton, the only grand cru vineyard for red wine in the Cote de Beaune, is large and produces wines of variable quality.  Latour, the largest owner of the vineyard, makes one of the best.  Corton Grancey, a proprietary–not a plot–name, is a blend of wine from Latour’s best grand cru plots within the Corton vineyard. … Read more

Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Tardive” 2007

($30, Louis Dressner Selections): The Clos de la Roilette is a beautifully located 22-acre vineyard in Fleurie, one of the ten crus (named villages) of Beaujolais, adjacent to Moulin-a-Vent.  This, the Cuvée Tardive–not to be confused with a vendange tardive, which would indicate a sweet wine–is a selection from old vines and typically needs more aging time. … Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Rouge 2006

($28, Louis Latour Inc.): Although the grand and premier cru vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet produce three times as much white wine as red, its village wines are more often red than white and, like this one, are often very good values.  This charming Pinot Noir-based wine delivers pure bright cherry-like flavors intertwined with a hint of leafiness. … Read more

Terres Dorees, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) “l’Ancien de Jean-Paul Brun” 2007

($19): Jean-Paul Brun is one of Beaujolais’ treasures because of the consistent quality of the wines he makes.  His crus of Beaujolais (some of them reviewed this week) are stunning, but his ‘simple’ Beaujolais is equally illuminating because it is so different from the all too often sweet and grapey industrial Beaujolais on the market. … Read more

Venerable Burgundy auction gets a makeover

‘Irrelevant” was the word a high-ranking representative of a leading Burgundy negociant firm, who prefers to remain anonymous for fear of offending the tightly knit Burgundy wine community, used to describe the current Hospices de Beaune auction. That’s a startling assessment of what was – and probably still is – the world’s most important wine auction.… Read more

Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006

($63, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Maume, a family run property, owns about 10 acres of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin.  When young, Maume wines, like this one, emphasize power rather than finesse.  In this case, there’s enormous concentration, more than you’d expect for a village wine, but at this stage the oak flavor and tannin is a little too prominent, which means it’s a good candidate for the cellar. … Read more

Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) 2006

($25, Kermit Lynch): More Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (a blend of at least one-third Pinot Noir and the remainder Gamay) is made than Bourgogne Rouge, but very little reaches our shores.  It’s too bad because when well-made, like this one, it is a bright and juicy wine with refreshing rusticity perfect for current drinking with simple fare like a roast chicken.… Read more