($32, Henriot USA): Village wines get short shrift as consumers clamor for wines from Premier Cru vineyards.  This village wine combines unexpected concentration with an alluring floral character.  It shows the charm of many of the 2011 reds.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013… Read more

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The nice thing about a wine carrying only a Bourgogne appellation from a grower is that you know roughly the origin of the grapes, since they must have come from the grower’s domaine.  That explains why this Bourgogne Rouge from Gallois, who is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, tastes like a miniature Gevrey-Chambertin. … Read more

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more

($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Passetoutgrain is a blend of Gamy and Pinot Noir.  When the vines are planted in the right place, as in Stèphane Magnien’s case, the wines can be delightful.  Magnien makes two different cuvées of a Bourgogne Passetougrain. … Read more

($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or.  Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy.  Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more

($21): The town of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte d’Or is a sleeper as a source for well priced white and red Burgundy, especially in 2012, a vintage that was short on quantity, but long on quality. … Read more

($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores.  The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity.  The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more

($23, Dreyfus Ashby): Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis.  Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay. … Read more

($16, Dreyfus-Ashby): The 2011 vintage for white Burgundy was a mixed bag with some wines being flabby.  Drouhin managed to capture acidity to keep that problem at bay with their lineup.  This St. Veran, from an appellation near its more famous neighbor, Pouilly Fuissé, is a stand out at the price. … Read more

($55, Boisset USA): Jean Claude Boisset has reinvented itself over the last decade, going from a Burgundy négociant focusing on quantity to one now focusing on quality.  It’s a welcome evolution.  This Beaune Grèves has plenty of concentration and supporting acidity to keep it balanced. … Read more

($45): The names of Burgundy vineyards are fascinating, often evoking colorful images.  This one, one of my favorites, is roughly translated as “the boulders that look like the teeth of the dog.”  Alex Gambal’s 2011 from this vineyard is as wonderful as the name. … Read more

($45, Boisset USA): Boisset, a négociant known for bulk wines, has reinvented itself over the last decade by reducing production dramatically and focusing on quality instead of quantity.  It’s been a dramatic and welcome transformation.  Under the guidance of winemaker Gregory Patriat, they have produced this stylish St.… Read more

($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy.  The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness.  The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more

($13, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Louis Jadot is as reliable and consistent producer as you will find in Burgundy.  Their talents are apparent in this well-priced, bright, Chardonnay-based white Burgundy.  Brimming with clean ripe fruit flavors, it has good balancing acidity that keeps it lively. … Read more

($45): The Gambal team, led by winemaker Geraldine Godot who joined Gambal in 2009, has captured the “flavor without weight” character of red Burgundy with this elegant Beaune Grèves.  Its lacey delicacy belies its impact and persistence.  A firm underpinning gives it support and structure. … Read more

($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back.  The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more

($18, Horizon Beverage Company): Both Burgundy fans will and newcomers to this mine field-laden region will be thrilled with this bargain priced wine.  Burgundy aficionados will embrace it because it’s an authentic red Burgundy at great price, delivering earthiness to complement its fruitiness. … Read more

($16, Louis Latour USA): Bourgogne Gamey is a newly created appellation for Burgundy with the 2011 vintage that allows producers to blend Gamay grown in the crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais with Pinot Noir.  It differs and is a step above the longstanding and locally popular appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains because the Gamay for Passetoutgrains can come from anywhere within Beaujolais.… Read more

($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais.  The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” … Read more

($20, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Most wines from this little known appellation between Chablis and Auxerre, are simply labeled Bourgogne Rouge because virtually no one has heard of Chitry. Giraudon reminds us–with the moniker Cépage Pinot Noir–that this wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir because regulations allow a small amount of César, an obscure grape, in the blend.… Read more

($175, Schneiders of Capital Hill): The 2009 vintage produced excellent red Burgundies. This is one of them. Though quite ripe, reflective of the warmth of the vintage, it has not lost its focus or identity. This Clos Vougeot captures the minerality and floral aspect of that Grand Cru vineyard and has plenty of structure beneath the ripeness and to assure a long life.… Read more

($75, Jeanne Marie de Champs): This vineyard surrounds the Château de la Maltroye and is owned solely by them, somewhat of a rarity in Burgundy since most vineyards have been divided and subdivided among multiple owners over the centuries. Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of red wine from Chassagne-Montrachet because they can be green and rustic.… Read more

($22, Frederick Wildman):  Bourgogne Rouge comes from the least well-sited vineyards in Burgundy, ones that frequently don’t produce fully ripe grapes.  The virtue of the 2009 vintage is that the warmth of the growing season ripened grapes even in the least desirable parcels. … Read more

($170, Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection): The producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, but especially when buying wine labeled Clos de Vougeot.  The quality of the wines coming from this famed grand cru varies enormously because the vineyard is large and is divided among more than 60 owners. … Read more

($235, Ruby Wine):  Alex Gambal’s new winemaker, Geraldine Godot, has brought his red wines to a new level.  She modestly told me she didn’t make this wine.  She just “raised” it.  Well, she did an excellent job.  It has superb weight and length, befitting a grand cru, with none of the hardness or angularity that plagued some 2008 reds. … Read more

($121, Robert Kacher Selection):  Maison Ambroise is a name you can trust in Burgundy.  Their wines, from the lowliest appellation to the prestigious Grand Cru, such as this one, reflect the vintage and place beautifully.  This gorgeous Corton Rognet is well structured with a solid core of dark minerality and luxurious, almost sweet, red and black fruit flavors. … Read more

($40, Kobrand):  A special bottling to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, this Beaune Premier Cru is a blend of approximately 20 different premier cru vineyards, according to Frédéric Barnier, Jadot’s new technical director who will be replacing the legendary Jacques Lardière next year. … Read more

($20, Robert Kacher Selection):  The source–a fifth of the wine comes from the appellations of Nuits St Georges and Cotes de Nuits Village–and the 45 year average age of the vines explains why this wine is so remarkable.  This very fragrant Bourgogne Rouge delivers an enchanting combination of red fruit flavors and earthy herbal notes. … Read more

($94, Henriot, Inc.):  Philippe Prost, Bouchard’s winemaker, has outdone himself with this Corton.  A beautifully structured frame supports luxuriously ripe dark fruit.  Subtle bitter cherry notes emerge from beneath polished tannins. A savory component in the finish adds to the intrigue.… Read more

($34, Becky Wasserman Selection):  Lafarge, a world-renowned producer of Volnay, makes other wines, albeit in small quantities.  They are so good they are worth the search, especially in the case of this Côte de Beaune Villages, which is reasonably priced, at least for Burgundy and Lafarge. … Read more

($160):  Although a famous Grand Cru, Clos Vougeot is the source of highly variable wines because of the vast number of growers who own vines in this famed vineyard.  Indeed, the Burgundy mantra of producer, producer, producer is doubly important here because the wines are never inexpensive. … Read more

($22, Kobrand):  This Bourgogne Rouge is a real treat from Jadot
because the grapes come entirely from the domains they control: Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot, and Domaine Gagey, which explains the labeling.  No purchased grapes or wine go into this bottling, which distinguishes it from Jadot’s other Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more

($24, Vineyard Brands):  Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies.  They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power.  And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge.  It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir.… Read more

($30):  The Hautes Côtes, a far less prestigious area of Burgundy, is the source of good value wines from top-notch producers, such as Mongeard-Mugneret.  This one packs a little more power than their straight Bourgogne Rouge that is coupled with a charming rusticity. … Read more

($60, Vins Divins):  Not all village wines are created equal, which highlights another flaw in the French appellation system.  This one towers above most village wines because of the contribution of the old vines that, for whatever reason, add a dose of complexity. … Read more

($485, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Domaines & Saveurs Collection):  Clos de Tart is one of the most under rated grand crus of the Côte de Nuits.   Located in Morey St. Denis and owned entirely by the Mommessin family, it has been producing sensational wine since Sylvain Pitiot, who is obsessed with quality, took over as cellar master in 1996. … Read more

($100, Frederick Wildman):  Here’s an example of how the French appellation system breaks down.  This village wine delivers more elegance and complexity than many producers’ wines from premier cru vineyards.  For this wine, Burguet combines grapes from old vines located in various parcels that lie on the slope between the village and the road. … Read more

($90, Frederick Wildman):  Les Petits Cazetiers is adjacent to Les Cazetiers, its famous neighbor that many producers believe is the village’s best premier cru vineyard.  But there’s nothing small about this wine.  It’s quintessential Burgundy delivering flavor without heaviness.  Leathery and earthy notes peek out from a rich, but not overbearing, assortment of red and black fruit flavors. … Read more

($40, Kobrand):  There should be no question about the quality of the 2009 vintage for red Burgundy.  A potential criticism is that they lack structure that would allow them to develop complexity with age.  Well, one sip of this wine dispels that notion. … Read more

($25, Becky Wasserman Selection):  A vintage like 2009, bathed in perfect weather during the entire growing season and through harvest, was especially beneficial to the lesser appellations that in poorer years suffer from under-ripe grapes that translate into thin wines.  That’s why in 2009 a low prestige category, such as Bourgogne Rouge, from a conscientious producer, like Château du Chorey, is a bargain-priced over-achiever delivering far more than you’d expect. … Read more

($63):  This Premier Cru is always one of Latour’s best reds from the Côte de Beaune.  The house has substantial holdings in this some of the best parts of this vineyard that they purchased over 100 years ago.  Those who complain Latour’s reds are diluted and not up to the quality of their white wines need to take another look. … Read more