Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011

($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy.  Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more

Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011

($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family.  Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years.  The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more

Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more

Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011

($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or.  Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy.  Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012

($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores.  The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity.  The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more

Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011

($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy.  The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness.  The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay “Steel” 2012

($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back.  The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Bourgogne Gamay (France) 2011

($16, Louis Latour USA): Bourgogne Gamey is a newly created appellation for Burgundy with the 2011 vintage that allows producers to blend Gamay grown in the crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais with Pinot Noir.  It differs and is a step above the longstanding and locally popular appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains because the Gamay for Passetoutgrains can come from anywhere within Beaujolais.… Read more

Château des Labourons, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2011

($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais.  The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” … Read more

Giraudon, Bourgogne Chitry (Burgundy, France) “Cépage Pinot Noir” 2010

($20, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Most wines from this little known appellation between Chablis and Auxerre, are simply labeled Bourgogne Rouge because virtually no one has heard of Chitry. Giraudon reminds us–with the moniker Cépage Pinot Noir–that this wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir because regulations allow a small amount of César, an obscure grape, in the blend.… Read more

Alex Gambal, Grand Cru Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2009

($175, Schneiders of Capital Hill): The 2009 vintage produced excellent red Burgundies. This is one of them. Though quite ripe, reflective of the warmth of the vintage, it has not lost its focus or identity. This Clos Vougeot captures the minerality and floral aspect of that Grand Cru vineyard and has plenty of structure beneath the ripeness and to assure a long life.… Read more

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2010

($75, Jeanne Marie de Champs): This vineyard surrounds the Château de la Maltroye and is owned solely by them, somewhat of a rarity in Burgundy since most vineyards have been divided and subdivided among multiple owners over the centuries. Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of red wine from Chassagne-Montrachet because they can be green and rustic.… Read more

Maison J. J. Vincent, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($12, Frederick Wildman & Sons):  J. J. Vincent is best known for their consistently excellent Pouilly Fuissé from their domaine, the Chateau de Fuissé.  This Beaujolais-Villages, however, comes from the négociant side of their company, from vines located within the village of Juliénas, but not within that cru’s appellation.  … Read more

Maison Ambroise, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Rognet 2009

($121, Robert Kacher Selection):  Maison Ambroise is a name you can trust in Burgundy.  Their wines, from the lowliest appellation to the prestigious Grand Cru, such as this one, reflect the vintage and place beautifully.  This gorgeous Corton Rognet is well structured with a solid core of dark minerality and luxurious, almost sweet, red and black fruit flavors. … Read more

Domaines Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2009

($22, Kobrand):  This Bourgogne Rouge is a real treat from Jadot
because the grapes come entirely from the domains they control: Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot, and Domaine Gagey, which explains the labeling.  No purchased grapes or wine go into this bottling, which distinguishes it from Jadot’s other Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more

Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2010

($24, Vineyard Brands):  Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies.  They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power.  And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge.  It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir.… Read more