($25, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Chablis remains one of, if not the best, values for white wine. Always made exclusively from Chardonnay, Chablis, when produced by dedicated growers such as Christian Moreau, delivers a unique profile of flintiness and verve, even at this lower end of the prestige ladder. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012
($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis. They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess. The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012. This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had. With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more
Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation. The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice. But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Grand Picotins” 2012
($50, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Savigny-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a good source for authentic Burgundy. Alex Gambal, an American who is one of Burgundy’s rising stars, makes elegant and refined wines under the guidance of his winemaker, Geraldine Godot. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012
($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines. The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny. Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2012
($27, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The 2012 vintage in Burgundy is good news/bad news. The good news is that, in general, the reds were excellent. The bad news is that the crop was decreased markedly by bad weather, which means much higher prices. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaulorent 2012
($60, Henriot, Inc.): The Vaulorent vineyard is the only premier cru vineyard that sits on the so-called Grand Cru hill of Chablis and is adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards. Wines from this vineyard are frequently sold under the more recognized vineyard name, Fourchaume. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire” 2012
($20): Borcard hit a bull’s eye with their Chablis in 2012, a relatively riper year. They harvested a bit early and captured gorgeous mouth-watering acidity in their entire line of wines. Their village Chablis, dubbed Sainte Claire, is an extraordinary value given the complexity and verve it delivers. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012
($27, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Pouilly Fuissé lacks the respect the appellation deserves. Sure, there’s lots of mediocre wine masquerading under the popular Pouilly Fuissé label. But one taste of Drouhin’s shows why this category is so popular. Drouhin’s 2012 is mineraly, lemony and stony. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011
($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up. This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2012
($20, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Olivier Leflaive, a talented négociant based in Puligny-Montrachet, consistently produces top-notch white Burgundies at all levels. This east-to-enjoy Bourgogne Blanc, though coming from the low end of the prestige ladder, delivers far more than you’d expect from the price.… Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The yields in Beaujolais in 2012, were, like everywhere else in Burgundy, down dramatically. Stéphane estimates that the average yield in 2012 for Beaujolais in general was about 27 hl/ha, or half normal, which is both good and bad. … Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “La Framboisière” 2012
($31, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Faiveley, a leading Burgundy estate and négociant, owns a substantial amount of choice vineyards in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. This village wine from their vineyards, dubbed La Framboisière, is always one of their successes. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2011
($20): This Pouilly Fuissé from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producer, is a “go-to” bottling when looking for a Chardonnay-based wine. Crisp, and clean with a hint of creaminess, it shows the elegance and allure of white Burgundy. Unlike many New World Chardonnays, it’s not opulent. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($34, Dreyfus-Ashby): Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune. It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune — but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — on the Montagne de Beaune. … Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011
($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy. Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert 2011
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Since the late 1980s when Jean Nicolas reclaimed previously leased vineyards and took over running the domaine, Méo-Camuzet has rapidly become among the star producers in Vosne-Romanée, with their top reds, Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, selling for $1,000 a bottle. … Read more
Domaine Sainte-Barbe, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011
($26, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation (1998) that was created from two towns, Viré and Clessé, that were formerly included with the more general Macon-Villages because the wines from those towns were judged to be more distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011
($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family. Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years. The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Henriot USA): Village wines get short shrift as consumers clamor for wines from Premier Cru vineyards. This village wine combines unexpected concentration with an alluring floral character. It shows the charm of many of the 2011 reds.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013… Read more
Domaine Gallois, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The nice thing about a wine carrying only a Bourgogne appellation from a grower is that you know roughly the origin of the grapes, since they must have come from the grower’s domaine. That explains why this Bourgogne Rouge from Gallois, who is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, tastes like a miniature Gevrey-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more
Domaine Stèphane Magnien, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Densité” 2011
($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Passetoutgrain is a blend of Gamy and Pinot Noir. When the vines are planted in the right place, as in Stèphane Magnien’s case, the wines can be delightful. Magnien makes two different cuvées of a Bourgogne Passetougrain. … Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or. Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy. Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21): The town of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte d’Or is a sleeper as a source for well priced white and red Burgundy, especially in 2012, a vintage that was short on quantity, but long on quality. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores. The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity. The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2012
($23, Dreyfus Ashby): Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis. Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Robert Drouhin, St. Veran (Burgundy, France) 2011
($16, Dreyfus-Ashby): The 2011 vintage for white Burgundy was a mixed bag with some wines being flabby. Drouhin managed to capture acidity to keep that problem at bay with their lineup. This St. Veran, from an appellation near its more famous neighbor, Pouilly Fuissé, is a stand out at the price. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($55, Boisset USA): Jean Claude Boisset has reinvented itself over the last decade, going from a Burgundy négociant focusing on quantity to one now focusing on quality. It’s a welcome evolution. This Beaune Grèves has plenty of concentration and supporting acidity to keep it balanced. … Read more
Alex Gambal, St. Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2011
($45): The names of Burgundy vineyards are fascinating, often evoking colorful images. This one, one of my favorites, is roughly translated as “the boulders that look like the teeth of the dog.” Alex Gambal’s 2011 from this vineyard is as wonderful as the name. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Saint Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2011
($45, Boisset USA): Boisset, a négociant known for bulk wines, has reinvented itself over the last decade by reducing production dramatically and focusing on quality instead of quantity. It’s been a dramatic and welcome transformation. Under the guidance of winemaker Gregory Patriat, they have produced this stylish St.… Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011
($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy. The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness. The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2011
($13, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Louis Jadot is as reliable and consistent producer as you will find in Burgundy. Their talents are apparent in this well-priced, bright, Chardonnay-based white Burgundy. Brimming with clean ripe fruit flavors, it has good balancing acidity that keeps it lively. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($45): The Gambal team, led by winemaker Geraldine Godot who joined Gambal in 2009, has captured the “flavor without weight” character of red Burgundy with this elegant Beaune Grèves. Its lacey delicacy belies its impact and persistence. A firm underpinning gives it support and structure. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay “Steel” 2012
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back. The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more
Maison Albert Bichot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2011
($18, Horizon Beverage Company): Both Burgundy fans will and newcomers to this mine field-laden region will be thrilled with this bargain priced wine. Burgundy aficionados will embrace it because it’s an authentic red Burgundy at great price, delivering earthiness to complement its fruitiness. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Bourgogne Gamay (France) 2011
($16, Louis Latour USA): Bourgogne Gamey is a newly created appellation for Burgundy with the 2011 vintage that allows producers to blend Gamay grown in the crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais with Pinot Noir. It differs and is a step above the longstanding and locally popular appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains because the Gamay for Passetoutgrains can come from anywhere within Beaujolais.… Read more
Château des Labourons, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2011
($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais. The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” … Read more
Giraudon, Bourgogne Chitry (Burgundy, France) “Cépage Pinot Noir” 2010
($20, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Most wines from this little known appellation between Chablis and Auxerre, are simply labeled Bourgogne Rouge because virtually no one has heard of Chitry. Giraudon reminds us–with the moniker Cépage Pinot Noir–that this wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir because regulations allow a small amount of César, an obscure grape, in the blend.… Read more
Thank you, Jacques Lardière
Pierre-Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, set the tone for a dinner honoring the retiring legend Jacques Lardière with the invitation he sent months in advance. The invitation noted that the dinner was to thank Lardière for all he had done for “Burgundy and Maison Jadot.”… Read more
Alex Gambal, Grand Cru Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2009
($175, Schneiders of Capital Hill): The 2009 vintage produced excellent red Burgundies. This is one of them. Though quite ripe, reflective of the warmth of the vintage, it has not lost its focus or identity. This Clos Vougeot captures the minerality and floral aspect of that Grand Cru vineyard and has plenty of structure beneath the ripeness and to assure a long life.… Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2010
($75, Jeanne Marie de Champs): This vineyard surrounds the Château de la Maltroye and is owned solely by them, somewhat of a rarity in Burgundy since most vineyards have been divided and subdivided among multiple owners over the centuries. Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of red wine from Chassagne-Montrachet because they can be green and rustic.… Read more
Maison J. J. Vincent, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($12, Frederick Wildman & Sons): J. J. Vincent is best known for their consistently excellent Pouilly Fuissé from their domaine, the Chateau de Fuissé. This Beaujolais-Villages, however, comes from the négociant side of their company, from vines located within the village of Juliénas, but not within that cru’s appellation. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Chénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($19, Frederick Wildman): I love the range of Potel-Aviron’s 2009 Beaujolais. They are ripe and precise across the board. This Chénas, perhaps the least well-known Beaujolais cru, has plenty of verve to balance the explosive fruit. Plumy undertones and a hint of earthiness come together beautifully. … Read more
Burgundy Update: Tiny 2012 Yields Presage a Pricey Future
“The most expensive vintage ever,” was how Louis-Fabrice Latour, President of the prestigious Beaune-based négociant, Maison Louis Latour, and current head of the association of Burgundy négociants, described the 2012 vintage in Burgundy. “Yields are down by 60% in many areas and we [négociants] are paying growers up to 30% more,” he explained.… Read more
Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2009
($22, Frederick Wildman): Bourgogne Rouge comes from the least well-sited vineyards in Burgundy, ones that frequently don’t produce fully ripe grapes. The virtue of the 2009 vintage is that the warmth of the growing season ripened grapes even in the least desirable parcels. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($19, Frederick Wildman): Juliénas, one of the ten named cru of Beaujolais, benefitted, like the rest of Burgundy, from the perfect 2009 growing season. And Potel-Aviron, one of the region’s most consistent producers, produced stunning 2009s. You can basically choose his 2009s blindfolded. … Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Clos de Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010
($170, Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection): The producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, but especially when buying wine labeled Clos de Vougeot. The quality of the wines coming from this famed grand cru varies enormously because the vineyard is large and is divided among more than 60 owners. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2008
($235, Ruby Wine): Alex Gambal’s new winemaker, Geraldine Godot, has brought his red wines to a new level. She modestly told me she didn’t make this wine. She just “raised” it. Well, she did an excellent job. It has superb weight and length, befitting a grand cru, with none of the hardness or angularity that plagued some 2008 reds. … Read more