($45, Old Bridge Cellars): This succulent wine offers not just fruit flavors but also hints of chocolate. Despite a slightly hot finish, it’s a classy, complex wine. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Category Archives: Australia
Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Etched Label” 2003
($55, Artemis Wines International): This is a resounding success for the first vintage of what is sure to be this producer’s flagship wine. The quality and complexity comes from 35-year old vines, low yields (two to three tons per acre), and the talent of winemaker Nigel Kinsman.… Read more
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($27, Negociants USA): Some Margaret River wineries had trouble ripening Cabernet in 2002 because it was an unusually cool growing season. Vasse Felix succeeded admirably because they used more grapes from the warmer–northern–part of the region. They fashioned a silky, ripe cassis-infused wine that still retains attractively herbal, but not unripe, elements.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2000
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): I tasted this at a seminar on Australian and New Zealand wines that I led for a group of undergraduate students at Harvard after my return from Western Australia. It was the wine of the night and a perfect accompaniment to roasted lamb.… Read more
Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Diana Madeline” 2004
($70, Young’s Market): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cullen’s flagship wine is named in honor of Vanya’s mother. Intense but balanced and layered, it has great complexity and finesse. Floral notes and aromatic hints of herbs and spice get this wine off to a great start, and nicely interwoven ripe fruit flavors finish with supple tannins.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2001
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): A harmonious combination of subtle chocolate, herbs, and yes, plenty of fruit, makes you want to drink this now. But resist. Drink the 2000 now and cellar this one for a few years because it will improve as the tannins soften and the flavors continue to unfold.… Read more
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): This wine’s ripe fruit flavors balance the herbal and floral notes, which are more pronounced here than in the Margaret River bottling because the Great Southern region is notably cooler. This is an elegant, layered wine, and another great value!… Read more
Refined Reds from the Wild West
The labels say “product of Australia,” but red wines from Western Australia are about as un-Australian as you can get. Those expecting super ripe flavors and 15 percent alcohol so common in Australian wines are in for a major–and pleasant–surprise. These wines, whether made from Cabernet or Shiraz, have elegance, finesse and complexity.… Read more
Starved Dog Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Viognier 2003
($15, Pacific Wine Partners): The Aussies, following what the French often do in Côte Rôtie, have blended a little white wine, Viognier, with Shiraz. The delicate floral elements, undoubtedly from the Viognier, tame the Shiraz without stripping it of spice. The cooler Adelaide Hills climate imparts a refreshing lift.… Read more
Lindemans, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($10): Reserve 2002 ($10): A big step above their Bin 50 Southeastern Australian Shiraz, the Reserve bottling, drawn exclusively from sources in South Australia, is a great buy. Its gamey, earthy complexity is an unexpected surprise for a wine at this price.… Read more
Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz/Grenache 2001
($19, Vineyard Brands): This is yet another intense Australian wine that carries its 14.5+ percent alcohol effortlessly. A juicy combination of spice from Grenache and rich plumminess from Shiraz makes this wine a joy to drink. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2002
($16, Hess Collection Imports): Peter Lehmann makes a range of excellent wines. This boisterous Barossa Valley wine delivers smoky, earthy elements in the nose that follow on the palate. Remarkable suppleness makes it easy to drink. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Clancy’s Red Wine 2003
($16, Hess Collection Imports): An intriguing blend of about 40% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, Clancy’s Red Wine is perfect for those who prefer strong structure in their red wines. The blend works because the firmness of Cabernet supports the ripe fruit of the Shiraz and Merlot without dominating either.… Read more
Jacob’s Creek, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($13, Pernod Ricard): Upfront ripe berry fruit, along with a touch of spice and mint, make this an engaging, easy to like Shiraz. It is full-bodied but remarkably harmonious for a wine touching 15 percent alcohol 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Who Says New World Wines Don’t Develop?
The major criticisms of wines from the New World are that they have too much fruit and alcohol and too little subtlety and elegance. Critics go on to say that these wines are unbalanced and fail to develop complexity and layers of non-fruit flavors as they age.… Read more
Katnook Estate, Coonawarra (Australia) Shiraz 2001
($22, Freixenet): Not your over-the-top Barossa Valley Shiraz, Katnook’s comes from cooler Coonawarra and shows plum and spice, intertwined with white pepper. It’s an elegantly styled Shiraz with great charm. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005… Read more