($11): With clean, bright, grapefruit-like freshness, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s is a lovely expression of Sauvignon Blanc. It’s refreshing and zesty without being aggressive. It would be a good match for shellfish or simply grilled fish. It’s a great value. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut 2002
($70, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): 2002 is a great year for Champagne. And fortunately for us consumers, a few, like this one, are still on the market. It’s earthy and intense, in a very good way, with cutting acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005
($96, Vintage ’59 Imports): I don’t know how I have managed to overlook Lilbert’s Champagnes over the years. I tasted their whole range at a tasting sponsored by the CIVC, the trade group that represents Champagne producers, that included 
hundreds of Champagnes from scores of producers. … Read more
Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut 2002
($99, Terlato): I don’t know how Bollinger manages to combine power and grace so successfully in all their Champagnes. The 2002 is especially noteworthy for this combination of intensity and elegance without being overdone. The biscuit-like flavors seem to persist forever. … Read more
Maison J. J. Vincent, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($12, Frederick Wildman & Sons): J. J. Vincent is best known for their consistently excellent Pouilly Fuissé from their domaine, the Chateau de Fuissé. This Beaujolais-Villages, however, comes from the négociant side of their company, from vines located within the village of Juliénas, but not within that cru’s appellation. … Read more
Ployez-Jacquemart, Champagne (France) Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2002
($65, David Boller Wines): Lacy and precise, the suaveness of a Blanc de Blancs is apparent. Its cutting crispness makes a lovely counterpoint to its creaminess. Its grandeur is manifest by elegance, not power, and great length. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012… Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2002
($50, Laurent-Perrier USA): The 2002 Champagnes are simply gorgeous and fortunately, there are a 
few, like this one, still in market. Laurent -Perrier is partial to Chardonnay in their blends and it shows in this gorgeous wine. All elegance and lightness, it has a gentle, but long, persistence.… Read more
Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée de Moines” Brut 2002
($70, Winesellers, Ltd): Bruno Paillard recently acquired Besserat de Bellefon and his hand is apparent is the quality of this wine. A blend of Chardonnay (54%), Pinot Noir (15%) and Pinot Meunier, it combines a mouth filling creaminess, elegance and power. … Read more
Louis Métaireau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Carte Noire” 2010
($16, Martine Wines): Métaireau is one of Muscadet’s best and most consistent producers. And this wine reflects his considerable talents. With an unusual ripeness for Muscadet, it still delivers a bracing Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy typical of the appellation. Mineraly and long, it shows that Muscadet can produce wines with considerable complexity. … Read more
Hecht et Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2011
($12, Frederick Wildman): The vast majority of wines from the Languedoc are red. But Hecht et Bannier has managed to find growers who make fresh and lively whites. A blend of Piquepoul (80%), which provides invigorating freshness, and Roussanne, which adds body, it’s a pleasant surprise, coming from this warm part of France. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Chénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($19, Frederick Wildman): I love the range of Potel-Aviron’s 2009 Beaujolais. They are ripe and precise across the board. This Chénas, perhaps the least well-known Beaujolais cru, has plenty of verve to balance the explosive fruit. Plumy undertones and a hint of earthiness come together beautifully. … Read more
Hecht et Bannier, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2009
($18, Frederick Wildman): 
A smaller appellation within the greater Languedoc, Minervois has the potential to produce wines with more finesse. And this one does. Still slightly tarry with spice, even a hint of licorice, it’s more focused on the pepper and spice rather than solely the fruit notes. … Read more
Hecht et Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2010
($12, Frederick Wildman): Hecht et Bannier, a small high-quality négociant, is something of a rarity in this part of France. Founded only about 10 years ago, they make wines from many of the diverse appellations within the larger Languedoc area. If you ever wanted to know the differences among, say, Minervois, Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Faugères, this is the place to start because the winemaking is the same. … Read more
Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Jalets” 2009
($26, Frederick Wildman): Jaboulet, one the great names of the Rhône, has been through some tumultuous times lately. Fortunately, they have weathered the storms, turned things around, and are now back on track. And if anyone needed any proof, I suggest tasting Jaboulet’s two wonderful Crozes-Hermitage. … Read more
Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Thalabert” 2009
($54, Frederick Wildman): 
Old vines, also exclusively from Jaboulet’s holding, make this a more complex wine. Judicious oak aging amplifies the palate of flavor. Less immediately overt because of a more tannic structure, it reveals itself slowly, especially in the finish. … Read more
Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Clos de la Senaigerie 2008
($13, Michael Skurnick Wines): I hear the skeptics. A four-year-old Muscadet from what subregion? Côtes de Grandlieu is a far smaller subregion within Muscadet than the more famous Sèvre et Maine. It’s a slightly warmer area because its stony soil acts as a heat pump at night and its location between the Loire a large lake moderates the climate. … Read more
Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Spätlese Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2010
($63, Loosen Bros, USA): This is classic German Riesling, combining ripe peach-like notes with racy invigorating acidity. Despite the ripe fruitiness indicated by the Spätlese indication (late harvest), its acidity makes it a lovely match for roast pork, sushi, and spiced Asian fare. … Read more
Remy Pannier, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($11, Palm Bay International): Muscadet remains one of the bargain sections of any wine list or wine shop. Located on the Atlantic coast on the western end of the Loire River, its wines have been paired traditionally with the local seafood. … Read more
Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2009
($22, Frederick Wildman): Bourgogne Rouge comes from the least well-sited vineyards in Burgundy, ones that frequently don’t produce fully ripe grapes. The virtue of the 2009 vintage is that the warmth of the growing season ripened grapes even in the least desirable parcels. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($19, Frederick Wildman): Juliénas, one of the ten named cru of Beaujolais, benefitted, like the rest of Burgundy, from the perfect 2009 growing season. And Potel-Aviron, one of the region’s most consistent producers, produced stunning 2009s. You can basically choose his 2009s blindfolded. … Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Clos de Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010
($170, Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection): The producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, but especially when buying wine labeled Clos de Vougeot. The quality of the wines coming from this famed grand cru varies enormously because the vineyard is large and is divided among more than 60 owners. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2008
($235, Ruby Wine): Alex Gambal’s new winemaker, Geraldine Godot, has brought his red wines to a new level. She modestly told me she didn’t make this wine. She just “raised” it. Well, she did an excellent job. It has superb weight and length, befitting a grand cru, with none of the hardness or angularity that plagued some 2008 reds. … Read more
Weingut Baron Knyphausen, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett “Baron K” 2011
($18): The trend over the years among top German producers has been to simplify the label by omitting the village and vineyard and just informing the consumer of the region. Fortunately in this instance, Knyphausen has not simplified the wine. It’s a classic Rheingau Riesling, lacey with captivating flavors of ripe white peaches and enough acidity to balance its fruitiness. … Read more
Greywacke, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Wild” 2010
($29, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Just when you thought there were enough New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the market, another one grabs your attention with its grandeur and complexity. It has a bit of everything, an alluring hint of flintiness, a delicate creaminess and vibrant acidity, and not too much of anything. … Read more
Domaine du Closel, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) “La Jalousie” Château des Vaults 2010
($25, Louis/Dressner): Savennières is a dry, taut and focused expression of Chenin Blanc. This wine proves the rule, and for an accessible price. The lean mineral nose translates to the palate. A few minutes’ wait allows the characteristic lanolin, quince, Granny Smith apple, and Anjou pear notes to emerge. … Read more
Sherwood Estate, Waipara Valley (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Clearwater” 2010
($28, Sherwood Estate Wines USA): New Zealand continues to be a source for excellent Pinot Noir. And this one, from Canterbury, another area well suited to the varietal, is just another example. It delivers charm and grace as well as the almost paradoxical combination of fruit and savory notes. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($15): This Sauvignon Blanc delivers a lot of complexity for the price. Pleasantly pungent, richness and a solid body balances the grapefruit-like tanginess. It has unusual length for a $15 wine. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2011
($23): Both the Sauvignon Blanc (the SB of the SBS) and Semillon (the S) speak 
clearly, but neither dominates in this beautifully polished wine. Sauvignon Blanc explains the wine’s brightness and vibrancy while Semillon’s presence is clear from the creamy lanolin-like texture. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha “Viñas Viejas” 2009
($20, Las Rocas USA): In addition to added complexity, the old vines (viñas viejas) used for this bottling provide riper grapes that translates into a bigger, more robust wine than their regular bottling (previously reviewed). Despite an added tarry component and more power, its additional class prevents it from going over the top. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Red Blend 2009
($14, Las Rocas USA): The label gives no indication of the blend, but frankly, Las Rocas makes such consistently good value-packed wine, that whatever blend they select is fine with me. This one is the lightest–but certainly not vapid–of their current trio of releases. … Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2009
($21): Tempranillo, Spain’s leading premium red grape, is a recent addition to Oregon vineyards. Judging from this example, growers will be planting more. Juicy and fruity, Abacela’s has a pleasant tang that gives it structure and prevents it from coming across as jammy. … Read more
Domaine Huet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Le Mont “Sec” 2010
($32, The Rare Wine Company): If this were hockey, this wine would have scored a hat trick (three goals in a game by a single player for the non-hockey fans)–a great producer, a great vineyard and a great vintage. The problem with Vouvray in general is the difficulty knowing the level of sweetness of the wine from the label. … Read more
Joaquín Rebolledo, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2011
($15, Moolight Wine Company): 
The Valdeorras DO, nestled in the northwest corner of Spain, has yet to gain the widespread recognition it deserves as a prime locale for the Godello grape and the wonderfully piercing wine that is made from it. … Read more
Domaine Laroque, Cité de Carcassonne IGP (Languedoc, France) 2011
($11, Jean-Christophe Calvet Selection, Aquitaine Wine USA): This wine is a superb example of why it pays to listen to knowledgeable retailers or sommeliers. I had never heard of the IGP, Cité de Carcassonne, let along Domaine Laroque, an estate that specializes in Cabernet Franc, not one of the mainstay grapes of the south of France.… Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sweet Riesling “Harvest Select” 2011
($18): 
Sweet – yes, cloying – no. This long and refined wine has the requisite verve to carry the richness of late harvested grapes. Not heavy, it dances across the palate with remarkable balance. These people know how to make Riesling. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Catalonia (Spain) Garnacha 2009
($14, Las Rocas USA): Spain remains a leading source for high quality reasonably priced wines, such as this one. It’s a boisterous wine, suitable for grilled lamb and the like, but balances its 15.2% stated alcohol with more than just fruit flavors. … Read more
Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charta” 2011
($25, Valckenberg): Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charter” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg): Johannishof, a top-notch producer in the Rheingau, bottles a splendid array of single vineyard wines that never disappoint. This wine, in contrast, comes is a blend from several of their vineyards, not all of which are in the same villages. … Read more
Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charta” 2011
($25, Valckenberg): Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charter” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg): Johannishof, a top-notch producer in the Rheingau, bottles a splendid array of single vineyard wines that never disappoint. This wine, in contrast, comes is a blend from several of their vineyards, not all of which are in the same villages. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Dry Riesling 2011
($9): Year after year, Chateau Ste. Michelle produces a value-packed dry Riesling. 2011 was no exception. Flowery, with a hint of sweetness, great vibrant acidity gives it verve and keeps it in balance. Sip it by itself, have it with take-out sushi or spicy Asian cuisine. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard 2011
($20): 
This Riesling from Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek Vineyard has far more going on compared to their straight Columbia Valley bottling. Still, the balance of aromas of white flowers, peach-like fruitiness, and mouth-tingling vibrancy is there. These people know how to make Riesling.… Read more
Schloss Saarstein, Mosel (Mosel Valley, Germany) Riesling, Spätlese 2011
($38, Valckenberg): Schloss Saarstein, a vineyard owned exclusively (a monopole) by the producer of the same name, is one of Germany’s finest properties. Located in the village of Serrig high above the steeply terraced Saar River, Schloss Saarstein consistently produces extraordinary wines. … Read more
Carl Graff, Graacher Himmelreich (Mosel Valley, Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2011
($17, Valckenberg): The Himmelreich vineyard is one of the best ones in the village of Graach, in the Middle Mosel. Graff’s 2011 Spätlese, the epitome of Middle Mosel Riesling, is lacy and delicate, yet persistent. It delivers a fabulous combination of minerality and lemony citrus notes balanced by zesty acidity. … Read more
Maison Ambroise, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Rognet 2009
($121, Robert Kacher Selection): Maison Ambroise is a name you can trust in Burgundy. Their wines, from the lowliest appellation to the prestigious Grand Cru, such as this one, reflect the vintage and place beautifully. This gorgeous Corton Rognet is well structured with a solid core of dark minerality and luxurious, almost sweet, red and black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine de la Tour du Bon, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2011
($20, Kermit Lynch): This serious rosé, a Mourvèdre dominant (55%) blend that includes other typical Mediterranean varieties of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, will convert those few remaining people (myself included) who believe rosés are inherently insipid. This one certainly is not–it’s real wine with herbal notes that complement the berry flavors. … Read more
Alamos, Salta (Argentina) Torrontés 2011
($13, Alamos USA): Despite representing only about 10 percent of Argentina’s white wine 
vineyards, Torrontés is rapidly becoming that country’s signature white wine grape. In Alamos’s current rendition, floral, Muscat-like aromas leap from the glass. Bright acidity prevents the ever so slight hint of sweetness from turning cloying and adds overall balance. … Read more
J. J. Prüm, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2011
($24, Valckenberg): J. J. Prüm, one of the very best producers in the Mosel, makes a consistently stunning array of vineyard designated wines, such as Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Graacher Himmelreich. You can buy them year in and year out and never be disappointed. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) NV
($22, Quintessential Wines): Crémant d’Alsace, especially from a top producer like Lorentz, is a under-
appreciated category. Less “serious” than Champagne, this is a creamy, soothing bubbly that is perfect for summer sipping. Dry and invigorating, without being astringent or aggressive, it works equally well with grilled fish or other main courses as it does as an aperitif.… Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) “Cigalus” 2009
($40, USA Wine West): One of the exciting things about the Vin de Pays wines is the flexibility the producer has compared to the rigid regulations of an Appellation d’origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine. With Cigalus, Gérard Bertrand has made the unconventional blend of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Sauvignon Blanc that works to create a stylish white wine. … Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Corbières Boutenac (Languedoc, France) “La Forge” 2009
($70, USA Wine West): Gérard Bertrand is one of the winemaking stars in the Languedoc. La Forge, his flagship red, is a blend of old (100-year) vine Carignan and Syrah from a single vineyard on his estate, Domaine de Villemajou in newly recognized appellation, Corbières Boutenac, carved out of Corbières because of its distinctive terroir. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2011
($20): Dr. Loosen, the famed German producer, and Chateau Ste. Michelle joined forces over a decade ago with the aim of making a stunning Riesling in Washington. Well, they’ve succeeded and its name is Eroica. The 2011, which may be their best ever, has a brilliant combination of lacey fruitiness–an almost Spätlese ripeness–offset by riveting acidity. … Read more