Established in 1890, Bodegas Riojanas is one of the traditional producers of Rioja, so it’s not surprising that they label their Riojas in the traditional way, by how long the wine has aged, as opposed what is becoming very popular in Rioja now, by geography.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) “Monte Real de Familia” 2019 ($23, Bodegas Riojanas USA)
Although Rioja Reserva wines spend only a year in barrel, like Crianza bottlings, the source of the grapes is typically better and the required two years of bottle aging before release smooths out the rough edges. The mid-weight Monte Real de Familia Reserva delivers less fruitiness, and more complexity, with a distinct savory component.… Read more
Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Gran Reserva, La Rioja, Spain “Monte Real” 2014 ($48, Bodegas Riojanas USA)
Gran Reserva wines from Rioja require a minimum of five years before release, with at least two years in barrel. The grapes for Gran Reserva are always the highest quality, in this case Tempranillo from Bodegas Riojanas’ best vineyard. Fitting the expected profile, the mid-weight but not ponderous Gran Reserva from Monte Real conveys an impeccable balance of darker fruit and an appealing savory, almost leathery, kick.… Read more
Bortolomiol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Bandarossa” Extra Dry 2023 ($25)
Prosecco Superiore, as my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, is a category of Prosecco that is a step above those labeled simply Prosecco because the land from which the grapes come is, well, just better. Bortolomiol, certainly one of the names to remember, makes a range of fine Prosecco sparklers.… Read more
Agricola Punica, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT (Sardinia, Italy) “Samas” 2023 ($22, Kobrand)
The inclusion of Chardonnay (20%) into this Vermentino-heavy blend adds richness without destroying the saline minerality of the Vermentino. Rounder than most Vermentinos, it’s a fine choice for those who look for more umph in that variety. It is a good choice for grilled swordfish.… Read more
Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2023 ($50, Demeine Estates)
As my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, “it’s the time to taste the ‘Good Stuff’” in reference to Prosecco. Well, this Cartizze from Sandi is really the “Good Stuff.” Cartizze, with its area of only about 250 acres of vines and accounting for about 0.1 percent of Prosecco’s output, is considered the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.… Read more
Château des Jacques, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2023 ($25, Kobrand)
A small amount, less than five percent, of Beaujolais is white and made from Chardonnay. Maison Louis Jadot, the venerable Beaune-based Burgundy négociant, saw the potential of the Beaujolais region when they purchased the famed Château des Jacques in Moulin-à-Vent, among Beaujolais’ most famous Crus, in 1996.… Read more
Tenuta del Melo, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2022 ($15, R & B Wine Imports)
Gavi, the DOCG, takes its name from Gavi, the principal commune of the region. Wines from the DOCG remain underappreciated, perhaps because they are typically racy and sleek but not opulent, or perhaps the grape from which the wines must be made, Cortese, has little recognition.… Read more
Kumeu River, North Island (New Zealand) Chardonnay, Estate 2022 ($38, Wilson Daniels)
Kumeu River, owned by the charming and humble Brajkovich family, is arguably New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producer. Founded in 1944, they started making fortified wines and gradually transitioned to high quality still wine with, of all things, Müller-Thurgau, and eventually landed on Chardonnay.… Read more
Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)
Pinot Grigio grapes actually have a pinkish hue to them. When crushed gently, they make the usual white Pinot Grigio wine. When crushed with a touch more force or when the skins and juice are kept in contact for a little time during fermentation, the wine has a copper (ramato in Italian) tint.… Read more
Kumeu River, North Island (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Kumeu Village” 2022 ($25, Wilson Daniels)
If someone can find a better $25 Pinot Noir, please tell me. Until then, just buy this stunning one by the case. Although the wine is labeled Kumeu Village, the grapes come from Hawke’s Bay where they purchased vineyards in 2017, not being able to expand around Kumeu because of its proximity to Auckland.… Read more
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021 ($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
The Tremblay family has always been a leader in Chablis. They were among the first to build a gravity-flow winery, which eliminates the need for pumps in Chablis shortly after WWII. (Pumping can harm the grapes and juice intended for more delicate wines such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.)… Read more
Domaine de Saint Cosme, IGP Vaucluse, Principauté D’Orange (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Deux Albion” 2023 ($25, Winebow)
Labeling aside, do not miss this wine. The Domaine de Saint Cosme is a top producer of red wine, especially their extraordinary Gigondas releases from the village where they are based. They are less well-known for white wines, though Les Deux Albion, may change that.… Read more
Drouhin Vaudon, Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($60, Dreyfus Ashby)
Back in the 1960s, Robert Drouhin, head of the venerable Beaune-based firm of Joseph Drouhin, had the vision to buy vineyard land in Chablis when the area was in crisis. At the time, many thought he was foolish, but today it’s clear he was a visionary.… Read more
Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)
There’s insipid Pinot Grigio and then there’s the real thing, like this one from Ronchi di Manzano, which made the varietal so popular. Unlike so many industrial renditions of Pinot Grigio, this one has weight and an enticing earthy accent to its bright and lively fruity component.… Read more
Cascina Adelaide, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Vigna Preda 2019 ($28, R&B Wine Imports)
My familiarity with Cascina Adelaide is limited to their superb Barolo, so I jumped at the chance to taste this Barbara d’Alba. Well, based on this example, their Barbera is in the same league as their Barolo releases. Cascina Adelaide’s aromatic 2019 Barbera is a delight because it’s fruity, but not too much so, and not heavy.… Read more
Beconcini, Terre di Puscany, Italy) “Maurleo” 2020 ($18, R&B Wine Import)
The history of the family Beconcini estate is like many in Tuscany. The grandfather liberates the land from the shackles of share-cropping in the 1950s and produces a variety of agricultural products, including grapes. The next generation focuses on viticulture and winemaking, eliminating everything else.… Read more
Badia di Morrona, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Felciaio” 2023
($20, VOS Selections): 
Badia di Morrona packs unusually good depth into their Vermentino. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it fresh and balances its weight. This Vermentino has real substance so uncork it with creatures from the sea that are swimming in a hearty sauce.… Read more
Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021
($26, VOS Selections): 
Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Chianti DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2022
($18, VOS Selections): 
Wines from the subregions of Chianti, like Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina, often overshadow the wines from Chianti. Well, it’s a mistake for consumers to ignore wines labeled Chianti, a broad region with its own DOCG that can be home to excellent wines. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2022
($60): 
Oregon Chardonnay generally tend to be more restrained as well as less rich and flamboyant compared to those from California. Nicolas-Jay’s “Affinités” fits that pattern. Weighing in at 13-percent stated alcohol, it’s a refined wine, not boisterous, yet showing plenty of character. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG (Sardinia, Italy) “Monteoro” 2021
($20, Taub Family Selections / Palm Bay International): 
My colleague, Rich Cook, just reviewed the 2023 vintage of this wine highly. I want to highlight a slightly older version, still available at retail, because it shows that Vermentino, when grown on the right terroir by the right producers, benefits from a little age. … Read more
Domaine Brégeon, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson (Loire Valley, France) “La Molette” 2019
($45, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): 
For over a decade now, Muscadet has a cru system, analogous to the Beaujolais crus. That is, identification of towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive and noteworthy wines. Wines from the Muscadet cru must have lower yields and be aged on the lees longer. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022
($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co): 
Saint Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé. Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay. Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint Véran year in and year out for decades. … Read more
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022
($40): 
Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine. William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “N’Antia” 2020
($38, VOS Selections): 
With N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows that a Bordeaux blend can be successful outside of Bolgheri. Bright and floral, N’Antia conveys the same striking fruit and “not just fruit” flavor combination as the Taneto, albeit with a more graceful, less chunky profile. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Taneto” 2021
($25, VOS Selections): 
I was unfamiliar with the Pisa-based producer, Badia di Morrona until their Italian public relations firm sent me samples. After tasting a trio of their wines, I’m glad I’ve been introduced! Taneto, a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Merlot, delivers both dark fruit and a “not just fruit” character that makes it very appealing. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “VignaAlta” 2019
($42, VOS Selections): 
With their N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows how well Bordeaux varieties do in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri. With VignaAlta, they show that Sangiovese reigns supreme in Tuscany. Racy and elegant, the youthful 2019 VignaAlta is show stopping. Sure, red and dark cherries, the signature of Tuscan Sangiovese, are evident but more emerges as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more
Lionel Faury, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ribaudes” 2021
($41, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): 
St. Joseph, an important but sometimes overlooked appellation in the Northern Rhône, is exceptionally long, running on the west bank of that river from Cornas in the south to Condrieu in the north. Its soils and exposures are varied, given its length, unlike its more circumscribed neighbors, Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie, so it’s hard to generalize about the wines. … Read more
Rotem and Mounir Saouma, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Arioso” 2020
($175, Vintus): 
With Arioso, and indeed all of Rotem and Mounir Saouma’s Rhône wines, the finesse and weightlessness of Burgundy meets the muscle of the Rhône. In Burgundy, the husband-and-wife team is a mini-négociant, buying small amounts of grapes or newly pressed wine from growers—typically just a few barrels—raising it, and bottling it under the Lucien Le Moine label. … Read more
Silver Oak, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
($100): 
Plush and sexy, Silver Oak’s dazzling 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon delivers succulent dark fruit offset by black olive-like nuances. Polished and suave tannins provide support without being intrusive or distracting, allowing for immediate enjoyment with a steak. Good acidity keeps it bright and you coming back for another sip.… Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “L’Ensemble” 2022
($75): 
Nicolas-Jay, a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo, who runs the celebrated Domaine Méo-Camuzet, one of Burgundy’s top producers, and Jay Boberg, a music industry giant, is just a decade old and is already one of Oregon’s leading producers. Only the second vintage vinified in their own winery, their 2022s all have a captivating purity and elegance. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Own-Rooted” 2022
($95): 
The Own-Rooted bottling comprises grapes from sites in the Willamette, all of which contain vines more than 30 years old, including some grapes from their own Bishops Creek Vineyard. Grapes from Hyland Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA and from Nysa Vineyard in the Dundee Hills round out the blend. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Nysa Vineyard 2022
($95): 
It is not surprising that Nicolas-Jay focuses on single vineyard bottlings, like this one from the acclaimed Nysa Vineyard, given the Burgundian perspective Jean-Nicolas Méo brings to the project. The iron-tinged 2022 Nysa leads with gorgeous aromatics of dark fruit and minerals. … Read more
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016
($96): 
Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure. At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled. At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances. … Read more
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2020
($60): 
Ian D’Agata, an Italian wine authority who has forgotten more about Italian wines than I know, says in Barolo: Terroir, Grapes, Crus, People, Places (2022), “I think Rocche Dell’Annunziata is one of Barolo’s best vineyard areas, a true Grand Cru if there ever was one.” … Read more
Ayala, Champagne (France) “A/18” Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 2018
($130, Vintus): 
Curiously, the Ayala Champagne house, founded by a Columbian, Edmond de Ayala, is located in the town of Aÿ. Paradoxically, Aÿ, a town in the Vallée de la Marne, is known for great Pinot Noir, while Ayala’s focus is on Chardonnay. … Read more
Conde Valdemar, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2015
($30, Cru Selections): 
Regulations for the Reserva category of Rioja require at least 3 years of aging, one of which must be in barrel, before release. Many, like this beauty, are aged longer before they hit retailers’ shelves. Hint of brown mahogany in the color announces it maturity and the non-fruit panoply of flavors (coffee and even leather-like notes) on the palate confirms it. … Read more
Ornellaia, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Volte dell’Ornellaia” 2022
($30, Vintus): 
Ornellaia is one of Italy’s iconic and greatest wines. They produce a second wine, Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, that is made from young vines or from grapes that just don’t make the cut to be used for Ornellaia itself. … Read more
Tenuta La Massa, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Giorgio Primo” 2020
($110): 
With Giorgio Primo, Giampaolo Motta, the owner of La Massa, shows that Bordeaux varieties do well in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri. The sumptuous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, grown at their estate in Panzano in the heart of Chianti Classico, consistently thrills. … Read more
DiamAndes, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec – Syrah “Perlita” 2020
($14): 
The A & M Bonnie family has expanded from their homebase at Château Malartic Lagravière, a leading estate in Bordeaux’s Pessac-Léognan appellation, to Argentina. Although Malbec was once one of the important varieties used in Bordeaux, it is rarely seen there currently. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Riesling 2023
($18): 
Not only does Dr. Konstantin Frank rank with the top Finger Lake producers, but also with the world’s top Riesling producers. Their 2023 shows why. Minerally and expansive, this dry Riesling is a delight to drink. It delivers good weight and substance without being in your face. … Read more
El Coto, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2019
($13, Opici Wines & Spirits): 
Like so many wines from Rioja, the juicy 2019 Crianza from El Coto, delivers more than the price suggests. As a reminder, a Rioja labeled Crianza, by law, has been aged for a year in barrel and a year in bottle before release. … Read more
Domaine Mont Bessay, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) En Bessay 2022
($60, Misa Imports): 
The team of Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko have set the standard for Givry with their graceful wines from Domaine du Celliers aux Moines by focusing on specific parcels within the vineyard, matching the viticulture and the winemaking to the parcel, what the French call sélection parcellaire. … Read more
Domaine Mont Bessay, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) Quatre Cerisiers 2022
($60, Misa Imports): 
Mont Bessay’s Quatre Cerisiers bottling comes from a small, 1.75-acre, plot some distance from the winery where the soil contains blue stone. Pascal and Marko marvel at how different Gamay behaves here compared to the parcels around the winery. … Read more
Trapiche, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec Finca Coletto “Terroir Series” 2018
($52, WX Brands): 
Trapiche has the luxury of selecting from over 200 different vineyards to produce their single vineyard wines. In 2018 the Malbec came from Finca Coletto, a high-altitude vineyard that plenty of sunlight to achieve ripeness and coolness that should preserve acidity. … Read more
Trapiche, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon Finca Laborde “Terroir Series” 2017
($46, WX Brands): 
What’s fascinating to me is how much more interesting Trapiche’s single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is compared to their Malbec. Yes, the same heavy bottle announces a big wine, but in this case a lovely fragrance pulls you in. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Grüner Veltliner 2023
($15): 
I have long felt that the Finger Lakes of northern New York makes this country’s best dry Riesling. What I didn’t realize is how well they do with Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature grape. It should come as no surprise since Grüner, as it’s known, requires similar growing conditions to Riesling. … Read more
Mar de Frades, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022
($23, Zamora Company): 
Albariño and Rías Baixas are practically synonymous. Yes, there is a little other white wine produced aside from Albariño, and of course, in neighboring Portugal, the same grape (Alvarinho in Portuguese) is used for Vinho Verde. But Albariño from Rías Baixas is hard to resist, especially in the summer because its uplifting citrus acidity refreshes and simultaneously cuts through most anything on the table, even barbecued chicken. … Read more
Ramón Bilbao, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2022
($18, Zamora Company): 
Founded in Rioja over a hundred years ago and focused on wines from there, Ramón Bilbao expanded to Rueda and built a winey there in 2016. The talents they exhibit in their Rioja are readily apparent in this floral and fresh Rueda. … Read more