($88): 
An unnecessarily heavy bottle forecasts a hefty wine, which it is. A Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blend pumped up with Malbec and Merlot, it delivers riper black fruit notes wrapped with suave tannins. Despite a richer and deeper profile compared to Caprio’s “Eleanor” bottling, it still has an engaging and balancing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Conde Valdemar, Rioja Crianza (Spain) Tempranillo 2018
($20): 
It’s hard to beat Rioja for satisfying mid-weight well-priced reds. Take this delightful example. Conde Valdemar has made a seamless combination of dark fruitiness touched by a kiss of seductive oak, all enlivened by lip-smacking acidity. Fine tannins make this bright and fresh beauty great for current drinking with anything from a roast chicken and mushrooms to skirt steak fresh from the grill.… Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Calanica” 2022
($18): 
It is no surprise that Duca di Salaparuta, one of Sicily’s leading producers, makes a delightful wine from Grillo, one of Sicily’s indigenous white grapes. This crisp and clean light-weight beauty cries for fish or shellfish. A saline-like acidity and hint of bitterness in the finish imparts a surprising length. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ruelles 2015
($50): 
This delightful wine shows that value in Burgundy is alive and well. Owned by the Devillard family, the Château de Chamirey is one of, if not THE, leading estates in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Frenzy, New Zealand () Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($15, Wilson Daniels): 
The Marlborough region of New Zealand’s south island is responsible for the acclaim, enthusiasm, and world-wide excitement for that country’s Sauvignon Blanc. That region does make distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. But, as this wine shows, Marlborough does not have a monopoly on distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Burgundy, France) Clos des Gatsulards 2020
($51, Kobrand): 
Domaine Gagey in the rectangle at the bottom of the label means that the Gagey family, the longtime directors of Maison Jadot, owns the property. So, in essence, this is an estate wine as opposed to a négociant wine for which Jadot would have purchased the grapes from another grower. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020
($26, Kobrand): 
In a word, delicious! And an extraordinary value. You rarely see Burgundy of this quality at this price. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, takes advantage of a relatively new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from the famed Côte d’Or part of Burgundy, rather than the region’s less prestigious subzones. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “Celebration” 2020
($63, Kobrand): 
Jadot started this unconventional, by Burgundy standards, bottling with the 2009 vintage to celebrate its 150th anniversary. Contrary to the Burgundy mantra of terroir — a specific delineated location is paramount — Jadot blends wine from upwards of 15 individual premier cru vineyards within Beaune, to produce a wine representative of the best Beaune has to offer (there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune.) … Read more
Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Barrel Select” 2021
($48): Vino Vasai is Italian for Potter’s Wine and explains why the latter is what you see when you pull the cork. Bill Sanchez, the winemaker and owner with his wife, Sandy, is a potter. Sandy explains that they had trouble when they tried to trademark Potter’s Wine, so, given her Italian heritage, they opted to name it in Italian. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2021
($58): Co-owner Sandy Sanchez, describes the Estate Reserve as their top wine. Certainly, it’s more concentrated and denser with more apparent oak character compared to their Barrel Select bottling. At this stage, it’s also has a slighter sweeter profile, presumably from what I assume is more substantial oak aging. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2019
($58): 
Vino Vasai’s Pinot Noir dispel the myth that you need super ripe grapes, which translates into 14+ percent alcohol, to make stunning wines. This stunning 2019 Estate Reserve is a case in point. With only 12.7 percent stated alcohol, it delivers what to me is the hallmark of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight. … Read more
Conde Valdemar, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2022
($18, Cru Selections): Fragrant floral notes immediately capture your attention here. Along with them, Conde Valdemar has managed to combine a subtle fruity roundness with bright invigorating citrus notes in this mid-weight white. A delicate hint of bitterness in the finish adds a balancing touch. … Read more
Henri Perrusset, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2020
($22, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Wines labeled Mâcon-Villages vary from the banal to extraordinary value. Put this one squarely in the latter category. Mâcon-Villages, a regional appellation in southern Burgundy, is large by Burgundy standards, 8,500 acres, and comprises 26 named villages lumped under the same umbrella. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Belleruche” 2021
($15, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Chapoutier is one of the top producers in the Rhône, so it’s no surprise that this mid-weight red Côtes du Rhône of theirs is easy to recommend. It displays a balanced and marvelous mixture of black and red fruits, offset by herbal elements that lend a savory touch. … Read more
Jean-Marc Burgaud, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) Beaujolais Lantignié 2021
($19, Thomas Calder Selection): 
Normally, wines from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation are a blend of wine from several different villages and do not carry the name of an individual village on the label. However, French regulations allow producers to indicate the village, Lantignié in this case, on the label if all the grapes came from it. … Read more
The Wines of Laudun: Under the Radar Now, but Not for Long
The French wine authorities, Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), are notoriously rigid and immoveable. However, they are poised to change the pecking order in the Rhône, putting the wines from Laudun on a level, administratively, at least, with Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) “Areté” Brut Blanc de Noirs 2019
($34): 
Made entirely from their estate-grown Pinot Noir, Iris’ brilliant bubbly displays the barest copper-colored hue. A fabulous array of red fruit nuances — wild strawberries, raspberries, and the like — are supported by a strict spine of acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more
Raventós i Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedès, Spain) “di Nit” Rosé 2020
($25, Augustan Wine Imports): 
Raventós i Blanc, one of the leading Cava producers, left the Cava DO in 2012 to highlight their unique and individual terroir around the Anoia River Valley. Their wines are no longer labeled Cava, but instead with what they hope will become a DO, Conca del Riu Anoia. … Read more
Te Awanga Estate, Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand) Syrah 2018
($28): 
Yes, New Zealand makes distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. As those late-night television ads proclaim, “but wait, there’s more.” And indeed, New Zealand produces more than Sauvignon Blanc, including Syrah, as exemplified by this one. Hawke’s Bay lies on the east coast of the north island and is well suited for reds, such as Syrah and the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Clos Apalta, Apalta (Colchagua Valley, Chile) 2019
($146, Winebow): 
Clos Apalta has become one of Chile’s most acclaimed red wines, and deservedly so. The 2019 certainly merits that accolade. Despite a 15 percent stated alcohol, the 2019 Clos Apalta is balanced and suave. Intense and rich, yes, but not flamboyant or over-the-top. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Eleanor” Estate Red Wine 2020
($68): 
This harmonious red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Merlot (17%) Malbec (17%) and Cabernet Franc, speaks to the potential of Walla Walla Valley. Ripe black and red fruit notes dance on the palate effortlessly without a trace of heat or heaviness. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo alla Sughera” 2019
($89): 
With an unusual blend of roughly 70 percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, Campo alla Sughera’s Super Tuscan is remarkably well-balanced. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the weight of this 14.5 percent stated alcohol wine. That said, it retains suaveness and poise. … Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Lucente” 2020
($25, Vintus Wines): 
The stunning 2020 Lucente could be the red wine buy of the summer. This Merlot Sangiovese blend delivers a marvelous combination of black fruit and dark minerals wrapped in a suave, silky texture. Black fruit character is evident, but this is not a fruity wine. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Arnione” 2019
($78): 
Arnione, a blend of roughly 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, is their Bolgheri flagship. As much as I liked their Adèo, Arnione is just, well, a much better wine. Here, minerals balance the lush black fruit and take center stage. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Adèo” 2021
($37): 
Founded in 1998 by the German Knauf family, Campo alla Sughera has become an estate to watch in Bolgheri. Their ravishing reds represent a variation on Bordeaux blends. Adèo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, delivers bright and juicy red cherry notes supported by mild tannins. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2021
($25): 
Iris Vineyards draws on three AVAs from the Willamette, Eola Hills, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill-Carlton, for this crunchy red fruited Pinot Noir. Alluring smokey nuances, thankfully not from wildfires, adds a counterpoint to the crisp raspberry-like fruit in this mid-weight, 13.7 percent stated alcohol, Pinot Noir. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “House Call” Red Blend 2020
($20): 
This lively and juicy fruit focused blend of equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, rounded out with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, displays an array of black and red fruits supported by mild tannins and bright acidity. Weighing in under 14 percent stated alcohol, it’s not a heavy wine, rather a terrific choice for summer BBQ. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Bric Quercia 2019
($19): 
Tenuta Carretta’s Barbera d’Alba is a well-price robust red that’s perfect for hearty grilled meat this summer. Supple tannins allow the immediate enjoyment of its juicy and ripe (15 percent stated alcohol) black fruit. Barbera’s inherent acidity keeps this racy red lively and in balance. … Read more
Marchesi Alfieri, Barbara d’Asti Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Alfiera” 2020
($32): 
Wines made from Barbera are all over the map regarding character and quality. Alfieri’s complex Barbera d’Asti shows the potential of that grape and DOCG. A dark minerality and a “not just fruit” character is a marvelous counterpoint to the lush and juicy black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($15, Bowler): 
I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again. This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône. A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality. The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019
($16, Carolina Wine Brands): 
Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling. The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive. It adds weight and gravitas without dominating. Though there is more “oomph” here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2022
($14, Carolina Wine Brands): 
White Rioja, made chiefly from Viura, represents a little under 10 percent of the plantings in the region and is making a resurgence in the marketplace. This light and zesty one delivers a hint of minerality accompanied by refreshing saline-like acidity. … Read more
Ramõn Bilbao, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2019
($15): 
Wines from Rioja, arguably Spain’s most famous wine area, can provide terrific value. Just take this one for example. Crianza, an official designation of aging, means that the red wine has been aged for two years, at least one of which was in oak barrels, before release. … Read more
Podere Sapaio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Sapaio” 2019
($94, Soilair Selection): 
Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” … Read more
Di Giovanna, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Vurría” 2021
($21, Regal Wine Imports): 
This zippy Grillo, made from an indigenous Sicilian grape, is a great accompaniment to seafood, even in a hearty tomato sauce, because of austere style and lively saline acidity. Not an opulent or fruit-driven wine, it is light weight, with a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Harmonium” 2014
($41): 
Made from one of Sicily’s native grapes, this robust red holds its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly, without a trace of heaviness. Smoke and other savory accents complement its dark plum-like fresh and dried fruit notes. Good balancing acidity keeps this mature beauty bright and fresh while fine tannins lend support without astringency. … Read more
Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022
($15): 
Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative. A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($14, Bowler): Laudun, one of the 22 villages allowed to attach the village name to the Côte du Rhône Villages appellation, has applied for, and is likely to be elevated, to cru status, which would put it on a level with Rasteau and Cairanne, other named villages who were formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020
($61): 
Papapietro Perry’s vibrant Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir shows bright red cherry-like flavors as opposed to the darker fruit character of the one from Nunes Vineyard. Still, it’s mostly a fruit-driven Pinot Noir without substantial savory notes common to that variety. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pommard Clones” 2020
($82): 
The lush Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones bottling is the boldest of Papapietro’s trio of Pinot Noir releases, displaying ripe black fruit notes. Like their two other bottlings, this Pinot Noir displays a velvety texture. Reflective of its 14.4 percent stated alcohol, a touch of heat comes through in its slightly sweet finish. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2020
($66): 
Papapietro Perry makes a trio of Pinot Noirs that all show a focus on ripe fruitiness while keeping the distinctiveness of site. Nunes Vineyard, a former pig farm with rich soil and a warm site, unsurprisingly, produced this robust Pinot Noir. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2021
($16): 
Talented and hard-working producers, such as Inama, are resurrecting Soave’s image that was tarnished and virtually destroyed by innocuous swill of the past. Now, wines from the Soave Classico DOC from top producers are frequently providing far more quality than their prices suggest. … Read more
Fattoria le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($19): 
Elisabetta Geppetti’s estate, Fattoria le Pupille, is one of the leading producers in the Morellino di Scansano, a DOCG located in southern Tuscany, near the coast. Though Sangiovese provides the base for Morellino, as it does in Chianti Classico, the wines from Morellino are typically richer than those from Chianti Classico because of the warmer climate. … Read more
Collestefano, Verdicchio di Matelica DOC (Marche, Italy) 2022
($16): 
Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. … Read more
I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021
($35): 
This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi. In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity. I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2022
($45, Kysela Pere et Fils): 
Though more well known for its red wines, Lirac produces some lively whites, like this one. That it is made from organic biodynamically grown grapes indicates to me that the winemaking team is more compulsive in the vineyard because they can’t just spray to control disease. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Frequent WineReviewOnline r
eaders may know I am not a fan of rosés in general because they are often vapid and lack character. Not this one. Domaine de la Mordorée has fashion one from a blend Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault that delivers lively refreshment, delicate red fruitiness, and complementary spice.… Read more
Clos des Lunes, Bordeaux (France) “Lune Blanche” 2019
($20, Monsieur Touton Selection): 
The Barnard family, owners of the stellar Domaine de Chevalier, one of the top estates in Pessac Léognan, owns Clos des Lunes, a property located in the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. The care they take with their wines from Domaine de Chevalier show in their dry white wines from Clos des Lunes. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DCV Block 10 2021
($45): 
David Stare founded Dry Creek Vineyard over five decades ago, in 1972. Over those five decades, they have an enviable track record of consistency. Though I am reluctant to describe a style by what they are not, it is important to emphasize that Dry Creek Vineyard’s wines are never flamboyant. … Read more
Cline Family Cellars, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Hat Strap” 2021
($30): 
The Carneros region of Sonoma, and Napa for that matter, is cooler because it abuts San Pablo Bay, which funnels cool Pacific Ocean air into the vineyards. Despite the cooling maritime influences, Cline has managed to create a Chardonnay with substance, reflected by its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, but without going overboard. … Read more