Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Ventisquero, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Carménère Apalta Vineyard “Obliqua” 2017

($71, Austral Wines):  Made entirely from Carménère, arguably Chile’s signature grape, grown in the famed Apalta sub-region, this juicy bottling displays a wonderful combination of red and dark fruit with spice and other non-fruit, savory notes.  Like the Vertice, the tannins are present, yet supple and not intrusive, so this hearty red is ready for mid-winter fare. Read more

Haritatos Vineyard, Slopes of Aenos PGI (Greece) Mavrodaphne “Mademoiselle Haritato” 2021

($34, Diamond Wine Importers):  Jancis Robinson in her encyclopedic Wine Grapes (Harper Collins 2012) reports that Mvarodafni is likely the Greece’s most well-known grape because of the sweet, fortified wines made from it. Well, this is my first introduction to it, and Haritatos Vineyard stunning one is definitely not sweet, nor fortified. Read more

Alpha Estate, Amyndeon PDO (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro Hedgehog Vineyard 2020

($27, Diamond Wine Importers):  Fortunately, most people don’t translate the grape’s name, Xinomavro, (literally, sour back) before buying the wine.  It is considered by many to be Greece’s most important and best red grape for red wine.  Frequently described as powerful with significant tannins, the mid-weight and poised one from Alpha Estate, an organic producer, does not fit that profile. Read more

Pommery & Greno, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé “Royal” NV

($64, Vranken Pommery America):  Pommery’s luxurious Rosé reinforces the notion that Champagne stands head and shoulder above other sparkling Rosés.  The delicate salmon-pink color pleases they eye, but the real pleasure comes from the first whiff and sip.  It delivers an impeccable balance of subtle, but persistent, wild strawberry-like nuances and creamy citrus ones.Read more

Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio “Bucci” 2022

($24, Empson USA):  The Bucci family, farmers in the region from the 18th century, started bottling their wines only in 1983.  They’ve rapidly shown themselves to be of the DOC’s top producers.  Reasons why the wines are formidable is the age of the vines — mostly 40 to 50 years — and their parsimonious yields, which run about half of the quantity allowed by DOC regulations. Read more

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) La Rivetta 2021

($50):  Cartizze is a small (roughly 260-acre) steeply sloped area of vineyards that represent the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.  And Sandi’s from their La Rivetta plot within Cartizze fits that perfectly.  Oddly, though, Prosecco is nowhere to be found on the label, which is a common practice among Prosecco producers who bottle a Cartizze. Read more

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire” 2022

($28):  Chablis remains one bright spot in Burgundy for consumers because its wines remain underpriced, and a great value compared to those from the Côte d’Or.  What they may lack it opulence compared to New World Chardonnay or the Chardonnay-based wines from the Côte d’Or, they make up for with a riveting minerality and focus. Read more

Tenuta Calimaia, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020

($20):  Frescobaldi, a name synonymous with quality in Tuscany, has established this estate in Montepulciano.  It’s really a return to Montepulciano for them since Leonardo Di Niccolò Frescobaldi was the town’s mayor in 1390.  The exquisite 2020, their second vintage, is, in a word, gorgeous, melding black fruit that borders on tarriness with minerals. Read more

Domaine Mont Bessay, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Le Vieux Bourg 2021

($50, Misa Imports):  Domaine Mont Bessay is a new project from the people who make the beautifully textured wines at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry.  Just as Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are drawing attention to Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise — not to be confused with Gevrey in the Côte d’Or — they will make the world think differently about Beaujolais cru wines. Read more

Terroir is Alive and Well on Mount Etna

One of things I adore about wine is how it expresses Mother Nature.  The same grape grown in adjacent vineyards and turned into wine by the same winemaking team can taste very different.  Winemakers attribute the differences to the composition of the soil (limestone, clay, or sand) exposure to the sun (do the grapes benefit from the gentler warming of the morning sun or the more intense afternoon sun?),
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Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018

($52):  Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed.  Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. Read more

Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018

($52):  Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed.  Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. Read more

Domaine Guillot-Broux, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvrières” 2020

($46, Vintus):  This stunning Bourgogne Rouge will change your mind about the quality of red wines coming from the Mâconnais.  Firstly, Domaine Guillot-Broux is clearly a talented and detail-oriented producer.  They waited 18 years before making a wine from Les Genièvrières, a vineyard in Cruzille, a village not far from the Abbaye de Cluny, because they didn’t think the vines were old enough to produce high-quality wine! Read more

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde de Guigal” 2019

($91, Vintus):  Côte Rôtie, or “roasted slope” transliterated into English, is composed of two major subdivisions, the Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde.  Typically, the former imparts more power to the Syrah grown there because of the iron rich soil, while the latter is home to Syrah with more finesse, reflecting its limestone soil. Read more