Category Archives: WRO Reviews

San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Terre di San Leonardo” 2020 ($20, Vias Imports)

San Leonardo, an outstanding producer in Trentino, makes a stunning Super-Trentino bottling of the same name from the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère. In the late 90s and early 2000s, about the same time that they realized what they always thought was Cabernet Franc was really Carmenère, they were replanting Cabernet Sauvignon.… Read more

San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Villa Gresti di San Leonardo” 2019 ($40, Vias Imports)

Starting with the 2000 vintage, San Leonardo began another wine called Villa Gresti, a blend of Merlot (90%) and Carmenère. While the 2019 is still Merlot-dominant (60%), the blend has changed, incorporating Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Carmenère. The bolder and riper Villa Gresti is a dramatic counterpoint to the more refined and elegant Terre di San Leonardo, displaying rich mineral-y nuances atop a suave base.… Read more

Biokult, Burgenland (Austria) Grüner Veltliner 2023 ($18, Natural Merchants)

Grüner Veltliner, often referred to as Gru-Vee in marketing jargon, is Austria’s most well-known and signature grape, comprising a whopping one-third of all plantings, red and white, in that country. This crisp and well-priced one, made from organically grown grapes, delivers this lively green apple-like nuances, which make it a perfect accompaniment to spicey fare.… Read more

Conte Brandolini d’Adda, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Merlot “Stomo” 2019 ($18, Carolina Wine Brands USA)

Unsurprisingly, all Merlot is not the same. Brandolini’s mid-weight Merlot, for example, bears no resemblance to the opulent and fruity ones often coming out of California. Rather, it’s dark fruitiness is more restrained and accented with savory, earthy notes. Fine tannins impart a suave texture that makes it a delight to drink now with hearty fare.… Read more

Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos des Thorins 2020 ($45, Kobrand)

The venerable Beaune-based producer, Maison Louis Jadot, was ahead of its time when it purchased the famed Château des Jacques property in Moulin-à-Vent and set about defining the different terroirs—vineyard sites—in that appellation. Almost 30 years later, a bevy of Burgundy producers are doing the same thing.… Read more

Château de La Chaize, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) La Chapelle des Bois 2022 ($43, Vintus)

With this Fleurie, Château La Chaize shows that terroir is alive and well in Beuajolais. Their La Chapelle des Bois, a historically important lieu-dit in Fleurie, is wonderfully different from their Brouilly. It’s far more floral, firm, and minerally without the peppery accent that identifies their La Chaize vineyard in Brouilly.… Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “Château de Blagny” 2022 ($150, Louis Latour, USA)

Meursault-Blagny sits high on the slope, just under the tree line, on the border with Puligny-Montrachet. The cooler locale explains why the white wines from this appellation are always racier and more delicate than other Meursault Premier Crus. Latour’s 2022 supplements that profile with refined power and an engaging floral component.… Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Chaillots” 2022 ($85, Louis Latour USA)

Wow, what a wine! Domaine Louis Latour, with its almost 8-acres, owns two-thirds of the Premier Cru portion of Les Chaillots, a 11.7-acre plot bordering the Grand Cru Corton-Grèves. Like many Burgundy vineyards, another 4.8-acre chunk of the vineyard is classified solely as village Aloxe-Corton because it lies further down the slope on heavier soil.… Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Château Corton Grancey” 2022 ($194, Louis Latour USA)

The term Château is used far less commonly in Bourgogne compared to Bordeaux. French authorities allowed Latour to use Château Corton Grancey because of its historical significance. The wine, frequently just referred to as Grancey, is a blend of five of the Grand Cru lieux-dits on the hill of Corton: Perrières, Grèves, Bressandes, Clos du Rois, and Chaumes.… Read more

Domaine Vincent Wengier, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($21)

Although Aligoté, the second white grape of Bourgogne, comprises only about 10 percent of the white plantings there, climate change and increased interest in the grape by growers makes Bourgogne Aligoté worth exploring. In the past, Aligoté, a lean and acidic wine, was used primarily to offset the sweetness of crème de cassis in an aperitif, Kir.… Read more

Alexandre Burgaud, Beaujolais-Villages Lantignié (Burgundy, France) La Colline de Chermieux 2019 ( $28)

Alexandre Burgaud represents the 4th generation of the family producing wine in Beaujolais. Although not a cru like Moulin-à-Vent or Fleurie, Lantignié, a village in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation that lies just outside of the designated cru appellations, can make distinctive Beaujolais (and deserves to be granted cru status).… Read more

Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($24)

Goisot, one of the top producers in the Côtes d’Auxerre, an up-and-coming appellation just west of Chablis, makes an extraordinarily consistent range of wines from that appellation. Their name on the label is a guarantee of quality. And because the appellations of Côtes d’Auxerre and Bourgogne Aligoté are less well known, the wines provide superb value.… Read more

Maison Albert Bichot, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($40)

The major Beaune-based négociants either make wines from their own vineyards or from grapes or newly pressed juice (must) they purchase from others. Sometimes they even buy wine made by others and finish the aging process themselves. They prefer to make wine from either their own grapes or purchased grapes because they control the pressing of the grapes, and the resulting wine is usually better.… Read more

Tenute Silvio Nardi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($36, Kobrand)

Rosso di Montalcino, sometimes called “Baby Brunello,” can come from vineyards designated for Brunello—usually declassified Sangiovese that didn’t make the cut—or vineyards that are presumably less well situated and reserved strictly for Rosso. Nardi, a top Brunello producer, uses Sangiovese from young vines in Brunello-designated vineyards as well as Sangiovese from Rosso vineyards to produce this charming and fresh wine.… Read more

Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) “Monte Real de Familia” 2019 ($23, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Although Rioja Reserva wines spend only a year in barrel, like Crianza bottlings, the source of the grapes is typically better and the required two years of bottle aging before release smooths out the rough edges. The mid-weight Monte Real de Familia Reserva delivers less fruitiness, and more complexity, with a distinct savory component.… Read more

Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Gran Reserva, La Rioja, Spain “Monte Real” 2014 ($48, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Gran Reserva wines from Rioja require a minimum of five years before release, with at least two years in barrel. The grapes for Gran Reserva are always the highest quality, in this case Tempranillo from Bodegas Riojanas’ best vineyard. Fitting the expected profile, the mid-weight but not ponderous Gran Reserva from Monte Real conveys an impeccable balance of darker fruit and an appealing savory, almost leathery, kick.… Read more

Bortolomiol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Bandarossa” Extra Dry 2023 ($25)

Prosecco Superiore, as my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, is a category of Prosecco that is a step above those labeled simply Prosecco because the land from which the grapes come is, well, just better. Bortolomiol, certainly one of the names to remember, makes a range of fine Prosecco sparklers.… Read more

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2023 ($50, Demeine Estates)

As my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, “it’s the time to taste the ‘Good Stuff’” in reference to Prosecco. Well, this Cartizze from Sandi is really the “Good Stuff.” Cartizze, with its area of only about 250 acres of vines and accounting for about 0.1 percent of Prosecco’s output, is considered the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.… Read more

Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)

Pinot Grigio grapes actually have a pinkish hue to them. When crushed gently, they make the usual white Pinot Grigio wine. When crushed with a touch more force or when the skins and juice are kept in contact for a little time during fermentation, the wine has a copper (ramato in Italian) tint.… Read more

Cascina Adelaide, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Vigna Preda 2019 ($28, R&B Wine Imports)

My familiarity with Cascina Adelaide is limited to their superb Barolo, so I jumped at the chance to taste this Barbara d’Alba. Well, based on this example, their Barbera is in the same league as their Barolo releases. Cascina Adelaide’s aromatic 2019 Barbera is a delight because it’s fruity, but not too much so, and not heavy.… Read more

Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021

($26, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva.  The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively.  Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022

($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co):  Saint Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé.  Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay.  Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint Véran year in and year out for decades. Read more