Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Pasqua Vigneti et Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Famiglia Pasqua” 2017 ($50)

Pasqua’s bold and warming Amarone delivers everything you’d expect from that appellation: dense, black fruitiness tinged with an engaging, raisin-like accented note. The 15 percent stated alcohol delivers an enveloping warmth without being hot or intrusive. It is finely textured with great balancing acidity and the barest hint of sweetness, which actually amplifies its appeal.… Read more

Paradise Springs Winery, Shenandoah Valley (Virginia) Brown Bear Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2023 ($42)

Whether Cabernet Franc will become Virginia’s primary wine remains to be seen. But this balanced mid-weight one from Paradise Springs Winery shows why it could. It delivers paradoxically ripe yet restrained black fruit flavors accented by subtle herbal ones. A delightful hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its stature and prevents it from its being overly fruity.… Read more

Col Vetoraz, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2024 ($40, Regal Wine Imports)

Col Vetoraz, founded about 30 years ago, has made the decision to make only Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG and label it as such, refusing to put Prosecco on the label. They feel that the generic Prosecco name has destroyed the reputation of the fine wines from Valdobbiadene area, the best part of the Prosecco region with the Cartizze Cru being the best of the best)/.… Read more

Collemassari, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Melacce” 2024 ($19)

The famed Montecucco producer, Collemassari, produced a creamy, gentle bottling of Vermentino from organic grapes in 2024. Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated-alcohol, this Vermentino still invigorates the palate with mouth-cleansing acidity and magnifies its appeal. It is another great choice for summer sipping, either alone or with grilled fish.… Read more

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “La Française” Brut NV ($63, Kobrand)

I have often wondered how Taittinger could make such a magnificent super premium Champagne, Comtes de Champagne, while simultaneously producing an anemic La Française, their non-vintage bottling. Something seems to have changed! Comtes de Champagne remains spectacular, still standing with any Champagne in that category, while La Française has taken on depth and complexity that balances its backbone.… Read more

The Federalist, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($17, Terlato Wines International)

With its racy grapefruit-like zing, the Federalist could be the poster boy for Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Happily, reasonable weight helps balance the prominent citrus character, though that note still predominates. This straightforward and cutting Sauvignon Blanc will be ideal for barbeques this summer.… Read more

San Felice, Bolgheri Bianco DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Bell’aja” 2023 ($32, Total Beverage Solution)

It turns out that Bolgheri, well known for top red wines, also makes noteworthy whites like this one. Its captivating aromatics indicate that Vermentino is the predominant variety. Sometimes said to be a grape that does best when “it sees the sea,” Vermentino is well suited to growing on the Tuscan coast, where Bolgheri is located.… Read more

Granbazán, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Etiqueta Verde” 2024 ($27)

The cutting edginess of this electrifying wine could serve as a replacement for teeth cleaning. But its joy, and my enthusiasm for it, comes from its harmony. Plenty of depth and adequate ripeness balances the ginger-like spice and racy profile. This long and balanced beauty makes it a fine choice for a plethora of flavors in an omakase meal or hearty seafood bathed in a tomato sauce.… Read more

San Felice, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Vigorello” 2021 ($78, Total Beverage Solution)

San Felice, a top Tuscan producer, incorporates Pugnitello, a traditional Tuscan grape, into their Super Tuscan blend with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. Wonderfully aromatic, rich dark fruit and minerals flavors emerge from this bold wine. Pleasing and invigorating acidity provides an ideal counterbalance to its rich profile.… Read more

Domaine Bonnardot, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Frangines” 2023 ($35)

The combination of soaring prices for even village wines and climate change have made the Hautes-Côtes the place to find affordable Burgundy. The Hautes-Côtes, both de Beaune and de Nuits, are the higher elevation land above the Côte d’Or. In the past, the elevation made it difficult to ripen the grapes and the wines had a rustic edge to them.… Read more

Sette Ponte, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Oreno” 2022 ($108, Kobrand)

Sette Ponte has modified the viticulture, winemaking, and the composition of Oreno, their Bordeaux blend. The result—a magnificent wine. Amedeo Moretti Cuseri, Sette Ponte’s CEO, explains, “We want the wine to have more finesse.” Having tasted a twenty-year vertical of Oreno last year, I can affirm that they have succeeded admirably with the 2022.… Read more

Albert Bichot, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Secret de Famille” 2022 ($42)

Bichot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, opts to use the relatively new, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, appellation that indicates all the grapes came from the Côte d’Or. None from the Mâconnais or the Côte Chalonnaise. In fact, I’m told that all the grapes came from the revered Côte de Nuits, which I wouldn’t doubt after tasting this suave and refined beauty.… Read more

Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2015 ($67, Dalla Terra)

Capezzana opts to hold back several thousands of bottles that they then release at a decade of age because they know that Carmignano, and not even the Riserva, needs plenty of time to show its complexity. Of course, they’re correct. From a recent tasting of their Villa di Capezzana that showed wines back to their first vintage, the 1925, it was abundantly clear that Carmignano, like other great wines, needs time to develop and show their stuff.… Read more

Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Duelame” 2022 ($28)

Regulators carved Lamole, the smallest of Chianti Classico’s UGAs (unità geografica aggiuntiva, additional geographic units) out of Greve because its high altitude and rock-laden soil has the potential to make unique and distinctive wines. Lamole di Lamole, by far the largest producer in the UGA with more than one-third of the total acreage, has done just that with their Duelame Chianti Classico.… Read more

Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Lareale 2021 ($35)

A step up from “Duelame” bottlling is Lamole di Lamole’s pure Sangiovese Riserva. From a single vineyard that sits at almost at the pinnacle of elevation at which Sangiovese can ripen (400 to 500 meters above sea level), Lareale focuses on minerality and firmness rather than fruitiness, though enticing black cherry notes are noticeable in the background.… Read more

Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigna Grospoli 2020 ($57)

Gran Selezione sits at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. The wines must be aged for 30 months, compared to 24 for Riserva, and come entirely from the producer’s own vineyards. Lamole di Lamole opts to make two Gran Selezione wines, both from single vineyards, Vigneto Campolungo and this one, Vigneto Grospoli.… Read more