Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) “Cuvée Prestige” Brut Extra NV ($43)

Franciacorta, a prestigious DOCG exclusively for sparkling wines, is nestled on the southern shore of Lake Iseo in Lombardy. The wine must be made using the so-called Classical Method, a secondary fermentation in the bottle. The blend includes the usual grapes for Champagne, Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, with the addition of Pinot Bianco.… Read more

Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Filetta di Lamole” 2021 ($47)

Although based in Panzano, Fontodi, one of the top Chianti Classico producers, also makes a small amount of wine from another area of Chianti Classico, Lamole, whose higher elevation imbues wines from the locale with a different, a racier, profile. Using organically grown grapes, the gorgeous 2021 Filetta di Lamole combines dark cherry-like fruitiness with an earthy minerality.… Read more

Poggio al Tesoro, Vermentino Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy)“Solosole” 2022 ($25, Maze Row Wine Merchant)

The grapes for this Vermentino come from Bolgheri, an area on the Tuscan coast well-known of red wines made from Bordeaux varieties. Well, it turns out that Vermentino does well there too, as this wine shows. Good acidity balances the floral and subtle melon-like notes, making it a fine choice as an aperitvo as well as a good match for grilled white fish.… Read more

Guigal, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($38, Vintus)

This Gigondas shows Guigal’s talents for finding suppliers and creating a stellar wine. Unlike Côte Rôtie and Hermitage, Guigal owns no vineyards in Gigondas, so the house buys wine from local growers and blends them. A typical southern Mediterranean blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre, this mid-weight Gigondas brings together a seamless balance of dark fruit, spice, and minerals.… Read more

San Felice, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Grigio” 2020 ($55)

Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southern-most of Chianti Classico’s UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, or Additional Geographical Unit) is home to San Felice’s Chianti Classico property and helps explain the ripe, dense quality to this stunning Gran Selezione. What makes the wine sing and stand apart, however, is complementary herbal and mineral notes combined with fabulous and balancing enlivening acidity.… Read more

Château Lascombes, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2022 ($93)

Alex Heinz, the man responsible for the recent ascent of Ornellaia and Masseto, became the winemaker at Château Lascombes in the summer of 2023. So, although he did not make this wine, he influenced the blend. Less of the estate’s production went into this, the grand vin, which contains a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon at the expense of Merlot compared to past vintages.… Read more

Château Lascombes, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Chevalier de Lascombes” 2022 ($42)

Although Alex Heinz, the new winemaker and general manager at Château Lascombes, did not make this wine, his hand is apparent in the blend. The engaging Chevalier de Lascombes captivates with its suave texture, emblematic of wines from Margaux. Its approachability and richness likely reflect the unusually high—for the Médoc—amount (65 percent) of Merlot in the blend.… Read more

Adami, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto Giardino, Rive di Colbertaldo 2022 ($27, Dalla Terra Direct)

Vigneto Giardino was the first vineyard Adami purchased, over 100 years ago. In 1933, it became the first single vineyard Prosecco ever made. Rive, as in Rive di Colbertaldo, means a hillside in Italian. As a category, Prosecco bearing a Rive name indicate a higher level of quality due to a specific, named and awarded growing site.… Read more

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($40)

Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine. William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation.… Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co)

Saint-Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé. Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay. Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint-Véran year in and year out for decades.… Read more

Tenuta Anfosso, Rossese di Dolceaqua DOC (Liguria, Italy) 2020 ($43)

Rossese di Dolceaqua, both the name of the grape and the DOC, is the best of the Rossese family of grapes, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014). Tenuta Anfosso is a leading producer of this grape and engaging light-weight red wine that hails from the western part of Liguria, on the border with France.… Read more

Cincinnato, Lazio IGT (Italy) Cesanese “Argeo” 2023 ($22, Oz Wine Company)

Cincinnato, a co-op of 130 or so members, controls the majority of vineyard area in Cori, where they are located, 50 miles southeast of Rome. The Cesanese grape ripens well in Cori because it is a warm and sunny locale. Although the Cesanese grape has been grown in Lazio for two millennia, it is now only gaining widespread recognition, which helps explain why this wine, made with organic grapes, is such a bargain.… Read more

Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto di Campolungo 2019 ($54)

Gran Selezione sits at the pinnacle of Chianti Classico quality pyramid, above Riserva. Regulations for Gran Selezione require that the grapes must come from the producer’s estate, but not necessarily from a single vineyard. In this case, they do, from the Campolungo vineyard that Lamole di Lamole believes produces exceptional Sangiovese.… Read more

Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2021 ($17)

Frescobaldi’s energetic Nipozzano is emblematic of the wines from Chianti Rùfina, a small, rugged high elevation area less than 10 miles east of Florence and often called a mountain Chianti. Predictably, given Frescobaldi’s stature and capabilities as a producer, this mid-weight 2021 Nipozzano sings with a combination of fruit and herbal nuances.… Read more

Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021 ($26, VOS Selections)

Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften.… Read more

San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Terre di San Leonardo” 2020 ($20, Vias Imports)

San Leonardo, an outstanding producer in Trentino, makes a stunning Super-Trentino bottling of the same name from the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère. In the late 90s and early 2000s, about the same time that they realized what they always thought was Cabernet Franc was really Carmenère, they were replanting Cabernet Sauvignon.… Read more

San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Villa Gresti di San Leonardo” 2019 ($40, Vias Imports)

Starting with the 2000 vintage, San Leonardo began another wine called Villa Gresti, a blend of Merlot (90%) and Carmenère. While the 2019 is still Merlot-dominant (60%), the blend has changed, incorporating Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Carmenère. The bolder and riper Villa Gresti is a dramatic counterpoint to the more refined and elegant Terre di San Leonardo, displaying rich mineral-y nuances atop a suave base.… Read more

Biokult, Burgenland (Austria) Grüner Veltliner 2023 ($18, Natural Merchants)

Grüner Veltliner, often referred to as Gru-Vee in marketing jargon, is Austria’s most well-known and signature grape, comprising a whopping one-third of all plantings, red and white, in that country. This crisp and well-priced one, made from organically grown grapes, delivers this lively green apple-like nuances, which make it a perfect accompaniment to spicey fare.… Read more

Conte Brandolini d’Adda, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Merlot “Stomo” 2019 ($18, Carolina Wine Brands USA)

Unsurprisingly, all Merlot is not the same. Brandolini’s mid-weight Merlot, for example, bears no resemblance to the opulent and fruity ones often coming out of California. Rather, it’s dark fruitiness is more restrained and accented with savory, earthy notes. Fine tannins impart a suave texture that makes it a delight to drink now with hearty fare.… Read more

Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos des Thorins 2020 ($45, Kobrand)

The venerable Beaune-based producer, Maison Louis Jadot, was ahead of its time when it purchased the famed Château des Jacques property in Moulin-à-Vent and set about defining the different terroirs—vineyard sites—in that appellation. Almost 30 years later, a bevy of Burgundy producers are doing the same thing.… Read more

Château de La Chaize, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) La Chapelle des Bois 2022 ($43, Vintus)

With this Fleurie, Château La Chaize shows that terroir is alive and well in Beuajolais. Their La Chapelle des Bois, a historically important lieu-dit in Fleurie, is wonderfully different from their Brouilly. It’s far more floral, firm, and minerally without the peppery accent that identifies their La Chaize vineyard in Brouilly.… Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “Château de Blagny” 2022 ($150, Louis Latour, USA)

Meursault-Blagny sits high on the slope, just under the tree line, on the border with Puligny-Montrachet. The cooler locale explains why the white wines from this appellation are always racier and more delicate than other Meursault Premier Crus. Latour’s 2022 supplements that profile with refined power and an engaging floral component.… Read more