Franciacorta, a prestigious DOCG exclusively for sparkling wines, is nestled on the southern shore of Lake Iseo in Lombardy. The wine must be made using the so-called Classical Method, a secondary fermentation in the bottle. The blend includes the usual grapes for Champagne, Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, with the addition of Pinot Bianco.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Filetta di Lamole” 2021 ($47)
Although based in Panzano, Fontodi, one of the top Chianti Classico producers, also makes a small amount of wine from another area of Chianti Classico, Lamole, whose higher elevation imbues wines from the locale with a different, a racier, profile. Using organically grown grapes, the gorgeous 2021 Filetta di Lamole combines dark cherry-like fruitiness with an earthy minerality.… Read more
Poggio al Tesoro, Vermentino Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy)“Solosole” 2022 ($25, Maze Row Wine Merchant)
The grapes for this Vermentino come from Bolgheri, an area on the Tuscan coast well-known of red wines made from Bordeaux varieties. Well, it turns out that Vermentino does well there too, as this wine shows. Good acidity balances the floral and subtle melon-like notes, making it a fine choice as an aperitvo as well as a good match for grilled white fish.… Read more
Guigal, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($38, Vintus)
This Gigondas shows Guigal’s talents for finding suppliers and creating a stellar wine. Unlike Côte Rôtie and Hermitage, Guigal owns no vineyards in Gigondas, so the house buys wine from local growers and blends them. A typical southern Mediterranean blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre, this mid-weight Gigondas brings together a seamless balance of dark fruit, spice, and minerals.… Read more
San Felice, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Grigio” 2020 ($55)
Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southern-most of Chianti Classico’s UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, or Additional Geographical Unit) is home to San Felice’s Chianti Classico property and helps explain the ripe, dense quality to this stunning Gran Selezione. What makes the wine sing and stand apart, however, is complementary herbal and mineral notes combined with fabulous and balancing enlivening acidity.… Read more
Domaine de Montille, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Le Clos du Château 2021 ($51, Demeine Estates)
Although Le Clos du Château, a walled vineyard that sits directly in front of the Château de Puligny Montrachet, lies within the village of Puligny-Montrachet, it lies outside of that village’s appellation. Hence, it carries the Bourgogne Blanc appellation. Who said Burgundy was simple?… Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Michet” 2021 ($42)
Although this wine is not yet available in the U.S. (the price is an estimate), I recommend it for three reasons: It is simply delicious, and should you run across it in a restaurant in Italy, snap it up. Secondly, it highlights an underappreciated category—Nebbiolo d’Alba.… Read more
Château Lascombes, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2022 ($93)
Alex Heinz, the man responsible for the recent ascent of Ornellaia and Masseto, became the winemaker at Château Lascombes in the summer of 2023. So, although he did not make this wine, he influenced the blend. Less of the estate’s production went into this, the grand vin, which contains a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon at the expense of Merlot compared to past vintages.… Read more
Château Lascombes, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Chevalier de Lascombes” 2022 ($42)
Although Alex Heinz, the new winemaker and general manager at Château Lascombes, did not make this wine, his hand is apparent in the blend. The engaging Chevalier de Lascombes captivates with its suave texture, emblematic of wines from Margaux. Its approachability and richness likely reflect the unusually high—for the Médoc—amount (65 percent) of Merlot in the blend.… Read more
Adami, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto Giardino, Rive di Colbertaldo 2022 ($27, Dalla Terra Direct)
Vigneto Giardino was the first vineyard Adami purchased, over 100 years ago. In 1933, it became the first single vineyard Prosecco ever made. Rive, as in Rive di Colbertaldo, means a hillside in Italian. As a category, Prosecco bearing a Rive name indicate a higher level of quality due to a specific, named and awarded growing site.… Read more
Domaine Brégeon, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson (Loire Valley, France) “La Molette” 2019 ($45, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
For over a decade now, Muscadet has a cru system, analogous to the Beaujolais crus. That is, identification of towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive and noteworthy wines. Wines from the Muscadet cru must have lower yields and be aged on the lees longer.… Read more
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($40)
Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine. William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co)
Saint-Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé. Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay. Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint-Véran year in and year out for decades.… Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Piemonte DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Grignolino 2021 ($38)
Grignolino is a love-it or hate-it kind of grape and wine. Put me firmly in the love-it category. A light red color and floral aromas could make think it’s a rosé, but the firm—not astringent—tannins and bracing acidity snap you out of that illusion.… Read more
Capanna, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($32)
Rosso di Montalcino is a terrific introduction to the more prestigious and age-worthy “big brother” category of Brunello di Montalcino. Although Rosso is made from the same grape—Sangiovese—and similar terroir—vineyards in and around Montalcino—the wine is more approachable in its youth than its more respected elder.… Read more
Il Mosnel, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) “Satèn” 2022 ($68)
Combine Mosnel, one of the DOCG’s top producers, with Franciacorta, Italy’s best DOCG for sparkling wine and the result is, unsurprisingly, delightful. The Satèn designation, always a Blanc de Blancs, indicates that the wine has been bottled with less atmospheric pressure, giving it an added creaminess from less fizz.… Read more
Tenuta Anfosso, Rossese di Dolceaqua DOC (Liguria, Italy) 2020 ($43)
Rossese di Dolceaqua, both the name of the grape and the DOC, is the best of the Rossese family of grapes, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014). Tenuta Anfosso is a leading producer of this grape and engaging light-weight red wine that hails from the western part of Liguria, on the border with France.… Read more
Cincinnato, Lazio IGT (Italy) Cesanese “Argeo” 2023 ($22, Oz Wine Company)
Cincinnato, a co-op of 130 or so members, controls the majority of vineyard area in Cori, where they are located, 50 miles southeast of Rome. The Cesanese grape ripens well in Cori because it is a warm and sunny locale. Although the Cesanese grape has been grown in Lazio for two millennia, it is now only gaining widespread recognition, which helps explain why this wine, made with organic grapes, is such a bargain.… Read more
Marchesi di Gresy, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Sauvignon 2022 ($25, Dalla Terra)
No newcomer, Marchesi di Gresy has been family-owned since 1797 and is best known for their stunning Barbaresco releases. If they are not careful, they could be known for this unique, steely Sauvignon, made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc grown in their vineyards in the communes of Barbaresco itself and Treiso.… Read more
Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto di Campolungo 2019 ($54)
Gran Selezione sits at the pinnacle of Chianti Classico quality pyramid, above Riserva. Regulations for Gran Selezione require that the grapes must come from the producer’s estate, but not necessarily from a single vineyard. In this case, they do, from the Campolungo vineyard that Lamole di Lamole believes produces exceptional Sangiovese.… Read more
Luigi Einaudi, Langhe DOC Barbera (Piedmont, Italy) 2023 ($28)
Barbera is often my “go-to” wine in restaurants because the grape’s brilliant acidity translates to a wine that remains vibrant throughout a meal. Einaudi’s black-fruited Barbera combines good depth with this energy. More fruit-focused than many Piedmont Barberas, this juicy red is a crowd-pleaser because of its weight, mild tannins, and vitality.… Read more
Luigi Einaudi, Dogliani DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2023 ($22)
The Italian wine authorities recognized what everybody knew—Doglaini was the best location for growing the Dolcetto grape—and awarded it DOCG status in 2005. Regulations require that the wine be made entirely from Dolcetto, which despite its translation, “little sweet one,” makes a dry, robust and fruity wine.… Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2021 ($17)
Frescobaldi’s energetic Nipozzano is emblematic of the wines from Chianti Rùfina, a small, rugged high elevation area less than 10 miles east of Florence and often called a mountain Chianti. Predictably, given Frescobaldi’s stature and capabilities as a producer, this mid-weight 2021 Nipozzano sings with a combination of fruit and herbal nuances.… Read more
Cavallotto, Langhe DOC Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2022 ($41)
Think of Langhe Nebbiolo as a baby Barolo, or a Rosso di Barolo. It’s a category that is becoming more common and popular as consumers look to wines that can be enjoyed without years or decades of bottle age, like most renditions of Barolo itself.… Read more
Tenuta Garetto, Nizza DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Favà” 2020 ($50, Carolina Wine Brands USA)
This old-vine Barbera shows why Nizza was promoted to DOCG, elevating it above the standard wines from Piedmont made from Barbera. It delivers depth, richness, and elegance without losing the uplifting verve of Barbera. Bold, yet not heavy, it still delivers a bit of Barbera’s engaging spice.… Read more
Tenuta Sallier de la Tour, Monreale DOC (Sicily, Italy) Syrah “La Monaca” 2020 ($44, Dalla Terra)
Tasca d’Almerita, one of Sicily’s top producers, oversees Tenuta Sallier de la Tour for a cousin, which helps explain this bold wine’s stature. Although plummy and ripe, it is not heavy. Savory elements sneak in, adding complexity. Supple tannins impart a suave texture.… Read more
Albert Bichot / Domaine Long-Depaquit, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($30)
I suspect the source of the grapes—their own—explains a good part of this wine’s stature. Bichot, a respected Beaune-based négociant, like many négociants, owns the vineyards from which they make some of their wines, which has important advantages. It allows the winemaker to determine how to farm the land.… Read more
Poderi Melini, Chianti Superiore DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “San Lorenzo” 2022 ($15)
Chianti Classico is the heart of the broader Chianti area as well as its most famous appellation, extending from the outskirts of Florence to the outskirts of Siena. Although the subregion of Classico and Rufina rightly garner lots of acclaim, this wine shows that good value can be found in the broader Chianti region.… Read more
Kettmeir, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) “Athesis” Brut Rosé NV ($50)
Thankfully, not all bubbly wine from Italy is Prosecco. The country can make outstanding sparkling wine using the “Metodo Classico.” (EU regulations prohibit the use of the term “Champagne Method” because it references a protected regional name, but that’s what it means).… Read more
Gruet Winery, New Mexico (United States) Brut Sparkling Wine NV ($15)
Who would have imagined that one of this country’s finest sparkling wines is made in New Mexico! The back story: Gilbert Gruet grew up in Bethon in France’s Champagne region, where, in 1967, he was instrumental in creating a Champagne co-operative.… Read more
Inama, Colli Berici DOC (Veneto, Italy) Cabernet “Bradisismo” 2020 ($42, Dalla Terra Direct)
Unbeknownst to me, Inama, a consistently superb Soave producer and one of my favorites from that DOC, makes a noteworthy red wine from a neighboring DOC, Colli Berici, also unknown to me. (One of the things I love about Italian wines is the potential for discovery.)… Read more
Le Ragose, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2021 ($25, Carolina Wine Brands USA)
Let’s unravel the words in the DOC. Ripasso means that the producer has beefed-up the classic light-bodied Valpolicella by re-fermenting the wine on discarded skins of the dried grapes that had been used to make Amarone. Think of it as a Valpolicella on steroids.… Read more
Russiz Superiore, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Cabernet Franc 2022 ($36, Dalla Terra)
Ilaria Felluga, following in footsteps of father Roberto and grandfather Marco, represents the 6th generation in charge of Russiz Superiore. I know Russiz Superiore sounds like it should be a DOC, but it’s really the name of one of their two estates.… Read more
Badia di Morrona, Chianti DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2022 ($18, VOS Selections)
Wines from the subregions of Chianti, like Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina, often overshadow the wines from Chianti. Well, it’s a mistake for consumers to ignore wines labeled Chianti, a broad region with its own DOCG that can be home to excellent wines.… Read more
Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021 ($26, VOS Selections)
Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften.… Read more
Badia di Morrona, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Felciaio” 2023 ($20, VOS Selections)
Badia di Morrona packs unusually good depth into their Vermentino. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it fresh and balances its weight. This Vermentino has real substance so uncork it with creatures from the sea that are swimming in a hearty sauce.
92 Michael Apstein – Dec 25, 2024… Read more
Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2020 ($42, Vintus)
I know Dog Point for their fabulous array of Sauvignon Blancs, but was unfamiliar with their Pinot Noir, so jumped at the chance to try it at a local restaurant. A style that is fruit focused and clean with a fine texture make it a perfect choice for current consumption.… Read more
Delille Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Chaleur Blanc” 2022 ($37)
Delille has created a masterful blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon that highlights the best of both of those varieties. The pleasantly piercing bite of Sauvignon nicely complements the lanolin-like texture and creaminess of Semillon. Racy acidity in the finish keeps it fresh.… Read more
San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Terre di San Leonardo” 2020 ($20, Vias Imports)
San Leonardo, an outstanding producer in Trentino, makes a stunning Super-Trentino bottling of the same name from the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère. In the late 90s and early 2000s, about the same time that they realized what they always thought was Cabernet Franc was really Carmenère, they were replanting Cabernet Sauvignon.… Read more
San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “Villa Gresti di San Leonardo” 2019 ($40, Vias Imports)
Starting with the 2000 vintage, San Leonardo began another wine called Villa Gresti, a blend of Merlot (90%) and Carmenère. While the 2019 is still Merlot-dominant (60%), the blend has changed, incorporating Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Carmenère. The bolder and riper Villa Gresti is a dramatic counterpoint to the more refined and elegant Terre di San Leonardo, displaying rich mineral-y nuances atop a suave base.… Read more
Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($18, Della Terra Direct)
Carmignano, a small DOCG, just northwest of Florence, requires the blending of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. Regulations require Barco Reale to be made from the same grapes as Carmignano grown basically in the area. Think of Barco Reale di Carmignano as a Rosso.… Read more
Luigi Bosca, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “De Sangre” 2022 ($23, Opici)
Malbec, originally found in Cahors in southwestern France or in Bordeaux where it was a prominent part of the blend until the mid-1950s (when a devastating frost decimated the vines) has made a name for itself as Argentina’s signature red grape.… Read more
Biokult, Burgenland (Austria) Grüner Veltliner 2023 ($18, Natural Merchants)
Grüner Veltliner, often referred to as Gru-Vee in marketing jargon, is Austria’s most well-known and signature grape, comprising a whopping one-third of all plantings, red and white, in that country. This crisp and well-priced one, made from organically grown grapes, delivers this lively green apple-like nuances, which make it a perfect accompaniment to spicey fare.… Read more
Conte Brandolini d’Adda, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Merlot “Stomo” 2019 ($18, Carolina Wine Brands USA)
Unsurprisingly, all Merlot is not the same. Brandolini’s mid-weight Merlot, for example, bears no resemblance to the opulent and fruity ones often coming out of California. Rather, it’s dark fruitiness is more restrained and accented with savory, earthy notes. Fine tannins impart a suave texture that makes it a delight to drink now with hearty fare.… Read more
San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) “San Leonardo” 2019 ($105, Vias Imports)
Bolgheri is not the only locale in Italy for superb wine made from Bordeaux varieties. In the early 1980s, Marquis Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga experimented at his estate in Trentino with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and what he thought was Cabernet Franc, varieties that had been planted in the area since the 19th century.… Read more
Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos des Thorins 2020 ($45, Kobrand)
The venerable Beaune-based producer, Maison Louis Jadot, was ahead of its time when it purchased the famed Château des Jacques property in Moulin-à-Vent and set about defining the different terroirs—vineyard sites—in that appellation. Almost 30 years later, a bevy of Burgundy producers are doing the same thing.… Read more
Château de La Chaize, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2022 ($50, Vintus)
I know, 95 points for a Beaujolais? Yes, this is one of, if not the best, Brouilly I have ever tasted. So, yes 95 points to get your attention. The La Chaize vineyard, a monopole, lies just behind the château on a very steep southeast facing slope.… Read more
Château de La Chaize, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) La Chapelle des Bois 2022 ($43, Vintus)
With this Fleurie, Château La Chaize shows that terroir is alive and well in Beuajolais. Their La Chapelle des Bois, a historically important lieu-dit in Fleurie, is wonderfully different from their Brouilly. It’s far more floral, firm, and minerally without the peppery accent that identifies their La Chaize vineyard in Brouilly.… Read more
Domaine Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Bignon 421” 2022 ($60)
Boris Champy has been, as they say, around the block. A native of the Champagne region, he worked at Napa Valley’s Dominus Estate for a decade and then was technical director at Maison Louis Latour, the venerable Beaune-based negociant, for another decade.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “Château de Blagny” 2022 ($150, Louis Latour, USA)
Meursault-Blagny sits high on the slope, just under the tree line, on the border with Puligny-Montrachet. The cooler locale explains why the white wines from this appellation are always racier and more delicate than other Meursault Premier Crus. Latour’s 2022 supplements that profile with refined power and an engaging floral component.… Read more