Perusing the selection at a Cannes wine shop, I noticed a group of Japanese businessmen. Among the shop’s selection of upscale wines — such as Cristal and grand cru Burgundies — one gentleman selected two bottles of 1995 Cheval Blanc, one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines (for just over $600 a bottle).… Read more
Category Archives: Articles
Aussies Could Conquer the Riesling World…Or Blow It
One of the paradoxes of the wine world is the discrepancy between wine writers’ and consumers’ love for Riesling. Wine writers love it. Every time I have dinner with a group of my wine writing colleagues, someone invariably orders Riesling, usually with unanimous agreement from others. … Read more
2006 Red Bordeaux Reviews
The Red Wines:
L’Angelus (St. Emilion) 2006: Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, who, along with his cousin, Jean-Bernard Grenié, runs L’Angelus, told me that a gentle extraction was critical in 2006. They performed most of the extraction early, during fermentation, when the alcohol (which is a solvent) was low to minimize extracting bitter tannins.… Read more
Bordeaux 2006: Variable, with Superb Peaks
Variable is the best way to describe the 2006 vintage in Bordeaux–except for the dry whites, which are consistently excellent. That’s my assessment after tasting about 250 wines–all barrel samples–in Bordeaux last month. Some properties, such as Château Mouton and Château Lafite Rothschild, made fabulous wines.… Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine, Part 2
John Larchet, an importer of Australian wines, and Bob Harkey, a wine retailer, both expressed the same troubling idea about Australian wines–albeit in very different ways.
Larchet (whose company, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, represents small Australian producers) described a gathering ‘storm cloud’ associated with the vast volume of Australian wines being sold here.… Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine
Every wine producer I met on my recent trip to Australia wanted to discuss regional diversity of Australian wines. They know that in order to grow, they need to expand beyond what they have already mastered: delivering wines that are simple, fruity, inexpensive, and easy-to-drink, with a cute critter on the label. … Read more
Super Tuscan producers size up Syrah
It was the first time I’ve been stopped by customs officials going into Italy. At Rome’s Leonardo di Vinci International Airport, the uniformed official looked up from his coffee and conversation with several co-workers as I pushed my luggage chart through the green — nothing to declare — channel.… Read more
2005 Burgundies: Don’t Miss ’em, But Bring Your Wallet
Are the 2005 Burgundies as extraordinary as first reports indicate? The Burgundians themselves are heralding the 2005 vintage–but that’s not news in and of itself, since wine producers always rave about the vintage they have to sell. However, based on multiple tastings of 2005 Burgundies (during visits to the cellars of Bouchard Père et Fils, Louis Jadot, Louis Latour and Joseph Drouhin in Beaune last September, another visit to Beaune last month, samples from 20 producers imported by Frederick Wildman, and a retasting of Jadot’s wines in New York in January), I believe this is an extraordinary vintage for the reds and excellent one for the whites.… Read more
Change at Lagrange: Global Warming and Robert Parker
What do Robert Parker and global warming have in common? They are the two major forces in Bordeaux over the last two decades, according to Marcel Ducasse, who has a unique perspective on the changes in Bordeaux during that time. Ducasse will be retiring next month after 23 years as the managing director of the now resurrected cru classé property, Chateau Lagrange in St.… Read more
There’s More Than One Way to Make Coq au Vin
Although I’m lucky to be able to interview individual winemakers or managers of wine estates, it’s unusual to sit around a table with a group of them to discuss their individual winemaking philosophies and techniques. You learn very quickly that, just as there are multiple ways to cook a chicken, there’s more than one way to make great wine.… Read more
Dynamic Duo Changing the Face of Kiwi Wine . . . Again
After helping Cloudy Bay bring New Zealand wines to the world’s attention with its racy Sauvignon Blanc — Cloudy Bay’s 1985 Sauvignon Blanc awakened Americans to New Zealand’s potential for making unique wine — Ivan Sutherland and James Healy are changing the New Zealand wine industry again.… Read more
THE ESSENTIALS: Spain’s Priorat region flexes its muscles
Editor’s note: Beginning today, the Wine section will profile noteworthy wine regions across the United States and around the world, with an eye toward helping you in your wine-buying decisions. Look for the Essentials every few weeks in Wine.
In just 20 years, wines from Priorat have gone from obscurity to being the most expensive in Spain.… Read more
An American in Beaune
It’s dinnertime in Beaune, the capital of the Burgundy wine trade, and Ma Cuisine, an unpretentious bistro, is packed and bustling as usual. When the door opens and an American with a charming boyish grin enters, the locals greet him with enthusiasm.… Read more
HdV Brings French Accent to Carneros
Here on the Eurocentric East Coast — remember we’re nearly as close to France as to California — I still am asked, albeit less frequently than two decades ago, whether America produces wines comparable to France. As my daughters would say, ‘Duh.’… Read more
Don’t Miss The 2004 White Burgundies
There is a good reason why fans of white Burgundy are smiling. Wines from the underrated 2004 vintage are now on retailers’ shelves, thankfully replacing the 2003 vintage.
Prices for the 2004 white Burgundies are steady or even lower than ’03, with no signs of upward movement. … Read more
Catalonia: Leading the Renaissance in Spain
Spain, a country with a long history of wine production, is seeing an unparalleled renaissance in its wines. In the past few years, Spain has leaped to primacy among wine producing countries in putting exciting new wines on the market.
In some respects, the current renaissance in Spain resembles the remarkable resurgence witnessed in Italy during the 1970s and 1980s.… Read more
Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne: An Age-Worthy White Burgundy
Maison Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne is the benchmark wine for that grand cru vineyard. Always tightly wound when young, its remarkable character opens and expands with years-even decades-of age.
The conventional wisdom holds that white wines don’t benefit from aging and often loses something, but this does not apply to most grand cru white Burgundies and certainly not to Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne.… Read more
Another French Paradox: Alsace Riesling
Everyone is familiar with the French Paradox: the French eat a diet rich in fat, but have a low rate of heart disease. Another French paradox is why Alsace Riesling is not more popular in the United States. By all rights, it should fly off the shelves.… Read more
For Seafood, Spanish Winemakers Finally Getting It White
Spain has the largest per capita consumption of seafood – after Japan – according to David Parker, Export Manager of Castillo Perelada, one of Spain’s leading wineries. But when I think of Spanish wines, it is the great reds from that country – Rioja, Priorat, Ribera del Duero – that leap to mind.… Read more
Australia’s western frontier: Maverick vintners make sophisticated, well-priced wines on the other side of the Outback
Everyone knows about Australia’s inexpensive, fruit-driven, mass-produced wines — think Yellow Tail, the largest-selling wine brand in U.S. food stores by dollar volume, according to ACNielsen.
But there is a wine-producing part of the country that shatters just about every aspect of that image.… Read more
Prosecco: Sparkling Summer Sipping
Prosecco, Italy’s unique and stellar contribution to the world of sparkling wine, must have been invented for summertime. Although the Italians drink it year round as an aperitif (consuming over two-thirds of the region’s 3 million case annual production), summer is the perfect discovery time for those unfamiliar with the joys of this light and “friendly” wine. … Read more
It Takes a Noble Grape to Make a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano exemplifies the confusion surrounding Italian wine labels. This wine’s meteoric increase in quality over the past decade has yet to be matched by its price, so it’s definitely worth unraveling the name.
The Italians name their wines by place name, such as Chianti, or grape name — think Pinot Grigio — or both, Dolcetto d’Alba. … Read more
Everybody Loves a Deal: Alter Ego
Everybody loves a deal, and some of the best deals in Bordeaux these days are the “second” wines of the top-rated Bordeaux properties. “Second wines” come from parcels of the vineyard or barrels in the cellar that, for whatever reason, just don’t measure up to the producer’s standard for that particular year.… Read more
Special Report: Bordeaux 2005 Tasting Notes
The following notes are based on barrel samples tasted (unblinded) at the chateaux, at an unblinded tasting organized by the Cercle Rive Droite de Grands Vins de Bordeaux, an association of Right Bank producers, an unblinded tasting organized by Bill Blatch, a respected négociant, or at blind tastings organized by the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux.… Read more
Special Report: Bordeaux 2005, A Vintage to Cellar
After a week in Bordeaux, where I tasted more than 400 wines from the 2005 vintage, there is no question that this is a great vintage for red, dry white and sweet white wines. Although nature was equally benevolent across the regions, winemaking techniques (how long to macerate, how much new wood) and decisions (when to pick) resulted in dramatically different styles of wine, especially in Saint-Emilion.… Read more
Western Australia: A Different Style of Shiraz
Shiraz (aka Syrah) is now firmly in place as Australia’s most popular grape–and wine. But it wasn’t always that way. From the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s, plantings of Shiraz went down by half (to about 12,500 acres) because the Australian government paid growers to pull out vines as consumption of red table wine fell from fashion.… Read more
Refined Reds from the Wild West
The labels say “product of Australia,” but red wines from Western Australia are about as un-Australian as you can get. Those expecting super ripe flavors and 15 percent alcohol so common in Australian wines are in for a major–and pleasant–surprise. These wines, whether made from Cabernet or Shiraz, have elegance, finesse and complexity.… Read more
Vintage New York
The current fashion in wine, certainly in New World wines, is for ripe, fruity flavors and the massive alcohol that invariably accompanies them. Consumers looking for alternatives need to look outside the mainstream. Wines from New York State, which certainly qualify as “outside the mainstream,” offer an extra touch of ripeness that is the New World’s signature, while retaining vibrancy that a cool climate imparts.… Read more
Selecting Wine in a Restaurant
It is the part of restaurant dining that most people dread. You are with a group of colleagues or friends, or perhaps on a special date. The conversation is flowing, everyone is relaxed and having a good time. Then, the waiter gives you the wine list.… Read more
Author’s Expertise Makes Book an Intoxicating Read
Paul Lukacs, author of “American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine” (Houghton Mifflin, 2000), has written another great book about American wines that every wine lover, especially Francophiles, should own. The beauty of his new book, “The Great Wines of America: The Top Forty Vintners, Vineyards, and Vintages” (W.W.… Read more
This poor man’s Barolo is surprisingly rich
Barolo is the king of Italian wines. Made from the nebbiolo grape grown in a small, sharply delimited area surrounding the village of Barolo, near Alba in Piedmont, it requires a king’s ransom to put some in your cellar. Even after paying $50 to $100 a bottle and often more, you need plenty of patience because it’s a wine that needs many years of bottle aging before its complex glories emerge.… Read more
Reserve Wines Score, But at What Price?
Bait and switch, an unsavory tactic in the used-car business, is finding its way into the wine industry. Think of the bait as a New World reserve wine that is produced simply to generate a 90-point-plus score from a top wine critic.… Read more
Enjoy a vintage Port without the waiting
Vintage Port, though one of the world’s great wines, is made the same way as all Port. The grapes are harvested, crushed, and fermented for only three days, instead of the usual 7-10 days for red table wine. At that point, the winemaker adds brandy, which raises the alcohol to 20 percent and kills the yeast, stopping fermentation before all the grape sugar has been converted to alcohol.… Read more
2001 Io has plumlike and peppery contrast
Back in the ’80s, when syrah, grenache, and mourvèdre were hardly known outside their traditional home in France’s Rhône Valley, a group of winemakers advocated growing them in California.
One of these Rhône Rangers was Byron ”Ken” Brown, who introduced Rhône varieties into the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County while working at Zaca Mesa Winery.… Read more
A French Connection Lifts Oregon Vineyard
Although the film “Sideways” highlighted Southern California as pinot noir country, Oregon is also a leading source of superb wine made from that grape. Many comparative tastings have shown that Oregon’s pinot noirs rank with the world’s best, and to many consumers it has become that state’s signature wine.… Read more
Who Says New World Wines Don’t Develop?
The major criticisms of wines from the New World are that they have too much fruit and alcohol and too little subtlety and elegance. Critics go on to say that these wines are unbalanced and fail to develop complexity and layers of non-fruit flavors as they age.… Read more
A cabernet sauvignon for an occasion
Frank Altamura, the winemaker at his eponymous property in California, is a farmer at heart. ”The big fun is in the vineyards,” he says.
With no formal winemaking training, he learned by doing, first at Sterling Vineyards and then at other notable Napa Valley properties: Trefethen, Caymus, and Dunn.… Read more
A $10 Spanish Red That’s Easily Sipped
Although Spain has been producing wines since the Phoenicians settled there, they have become fashionable only recently. The modernization of Spain’s wine industry and leap in quality come from an influx of investment after it joined the European Community in 1988.… Read more
A vintage champagne that’s affordable
Like other fine wine, champagne can improve with age, as Duval-Leroy’s nearly 10-year-old vintage champagne demonstrates. Although 1996 produced excellent wines throughout France, no region did better than Champagne, where it will rank as one of the greatest vintages ever.
Most champagne is nonvintage; a blend of wine from several years’ harvests aimed at producing a consistent house style year after year.… Read more
Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough: A True New World Terroir
The French speak passionately about terroir, a concept maintaining that the character of a wine comes from the unique climate and soil where the grapes are grown. They claim grapes are mere vehicles for transmitting the flavor of the earth into the wine from which they are crafted.… Read more
Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is Fruity Yet Sophisticated
Chile, initially known for its well-made under-$10 wines, has entered the upscale market with bottlings in the $60-plus range, such as Almaviva, a joint effort of Bordeaux’s Mouton Rothschild and Chile’s Concha y Toro, Casa Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta, and Vinedo Chadwick.… Read more
Hungarian Tokaji a dry delight
With wine, as with most of life, it pays to listen to people with experience.
George Bardis, who runs the wine department at Martignetti’s Soldiers Field Road store and tastes thousands of wines each year, recently returned from Hungary where he sampled scores.… Read more
An elite chardonnay without the cost
It’s always a treat to run across a wine that delivers more than it is supposed to. And it’s a special treat when the wine is made from chardonnay, since wines made from that grape can be monotonous.
Although Californian and Australian chardonnay dominate the American market, the finest ones come from Burgundy.… Read more
A Conversation with Christian Moueix, Part II: Dominus Estate
Christian Moueix, perhaps the most influential wine figure in Pomerol and St. Émilion where he oversees his family’s ten properties, also owns Dominus Estate in the Napa Valley. During a recent trip to California to supervise activities at Dominus, he stopped in Boston and we met and tasted for three illuminating hours in my kitchen.… Read more
New Zealand Bubbly Deserves A Toast
Champagne, without doubt the world’s best bubbly, is a good but pricey way to alleviate end-of-summer blues. Often, we must make do with a less-expensive alternative, sparkling wine.
Notwithstanding the label of some California sparkling wines, true champagne comes only from a specified method using chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier grown in the Champagne region of France, about 100 miles east of Paris.… Read more
Torrontes offers sweet taste of summer
One sip of torrontes, made from Argentina’s most widely planted white grape of the same name, will keep you in the summer spirit; it is the perfect summertime wine.
It is likely the grape arrived in Argentina from Northern Spain, but its precise lineage and origin remain obscure, so don’t bother looking for a European counterpart.… Read more
La Posta’s 2003 bonarda is a lively dinner partner
By now, many wine drinkers are accustomed to ordering malbec, currently Argentina’s signature wine. But how many know or have even heard of bonarda, Argentina’s second most important red wine grape? As recently as 25 years ago, it was Argentina’s most popular red grape, as growers planted it after they ripped out malbec.… Read more
A Conversation with Christian Moueix
Perhaps people who spend their entire life with Merlot become like the wine: easy-going and charming, without hard edges. That describes Christian Moueix, a man who is remarkably straightforward, especially for someone so important and influential in the world of wine.… Read more
2001 Napanook a ‘second’ with first-class traits
Christian Moueix was born with merlot in his blood, which makes what he has done in Napa Valley all the more amazing. His family owns or controls the most prestigious properties in Pomerol, including Chateau Petrus, one of Bordeaux’s finest wines.… Read more
N.Y. Riesling lacks cloying sweetness
New York wines lack the cachet of those from California, which is too bad since some, like Riesling, are stellar and more exciting than their West Coast counterparts.
The Finger Lakes region, with almost 100 wineries, accounts for 90 percent of the state’s wine.… Read more