Many wine journalists and sommeliers look down their collective noses at Tuscan Vermentino. They believe that the only “real” Vermentino comes from just a few specific locations: Sardinia (Vermentino di Sardegna, or the even more exalted Vermentino di Gallura), Corsica, or Liguria (where the grape is known as Pigato, most notably in Coli di Luni DOC). Having tasted scores of Tuscan renditions of Vermentino over the last two years, I disagree. Indeed, Tuscan Vermentinos fit midway on the spectrum running from the firm and substantial ones from Sardinia or Corsica to the minerally and citrus-tinged ones from Liguria.
Tuscan Vermentino is typically a light- to medium-bodied, dry, white with a roundness that moderates its saline-tinged acidity, which amplifies the aromatic character of the grape. Francesco Mazzei, head of the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana (Consortium of Maremma Wines), explains that the prominent minerality of Vermentino from Sardinia results from granite soil, whereas Maremma’s sandy soil imparts a different profile. When young, Maremma Vermentino has an attractive white pepper accent that, to me, enhances their appeal.
Certain producers are expanding the Tuscan Vermentino envelope by making a richer, more upscale and ageable version, “Vermentino Superiore.” These range from the very fine cooperative Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano with their alluring 2023 “San Bruzio,” to the top-end estates, such as Mazzei with their Belguardo V. Regulations for Vermentino Superiore require the use of 95 percent of Vermentino in the wine (compared to 85 percent) and riper grapes, as reflected by a higher minimum alcohol, 12.5 percent versus 12.0 percent. Vermentino Superiore typically have more density and complexity without losing any energy.
Conventional wisdom maintains that Vermentino vines must see the sea—so Maremma, a costal part of Tuscany—would be a logical place to start with this variety. Maremma is a large rectangular region, one that borders and extends from Bolgheri in the north along the coast to Lazio in the south, then also inland to Siena in the east. It was granted DOC recognition in 2011 as an appellation that could utilize a whole host of grapes, both red and white.
Originally a swampy area, the Maremma was drained transiently by both the Etruscans and later, the Romans. Permanent success at converting the marshy area to fertile ground came two millennia later, first under the orders of Grand Duke Leopoldo II in the mid-19th century and finally, in the 1930s, under the fascist dictator Mussolini. Today, in addition to its focus on wine, it is the Butteri (Cowboy) area of Italy, both figuratively and literally, with cowboys herding long-horned bulls. As a point of reference, perhaps the best-known DOCG-level zone contained within the Maremma is the Sangiovese-based Morellino di Scansano.
For white wines, however, Vermentino is Maremma’s most widely planted white grape and certainly the region’s signature variety. Mazzei goes a step further, believing it is the Maremma DOC’s signature wine, period, whether red or white. Plantings of Vermentino support Mazzei’s contention and show producers’ love of the variety: Bottlings of it have increased 10-fold over the last decade, and it now accounts for over a third of the DOC’s entire production.
Since Maremma lacks the cachet of some other Tuscan DOCs, regulators have added Toscana to the name of the DOC, a clear marketing maneuver since famous DOCs or DOCGs, such as Brunello di Montalcino, aren’t labeled Brunello di Montalcino Toscana.
Mazzei explains that in addition to the DOC, producers have the option of bottling the wines under an IGT designation if the wines do not conform to the DOC’s more rigid requirements, which demand a lower yield, among other things. So, there is no terroir distinction between DOC and IGT Vermentino from Maremma—only production methods.
From the tastings I’ve done, those Vermentinos that come from close to the Maremma coast compared to those further inland do indeed show more of a lively, saline-tinged edginess. But consumers cannot differentiate between the two groups of wines merely from the labels, since all are entitled to carry the DOC or IGT designation. Once again, for the consumer, it comes down to paying attention to: producer, producer, producer.
Vermentino from Maremma, be it DOC or IGT, should be a hit with consumers looking for a crisp and refreshing, mostly unoaked, white wine for summertime sipping or pairing with simple seafood. They typically have modest alcohol levels, rarely exceeding a stated 13.5 percent. As the tasting notes indicate, many producers have embraced organic grapes from their Maremma Toscana wines. Vermentino Superiore wines, with their added depth and bracing acidity, hold up to more substantial fare, even meat-filled ravioli.
Mazzei believes that the market will embrace the more up-scale Vermentino Superiore category. After tasting a selection of them, I agree.
With the category of Vermentino from Maremma exploding, consumers have many options. Here are a few I recommend highly:
Tenuta Campo Maccione, an estate owned by the famous Chianti Classico producer Famiglia Zingarelli of Rocca delle Macie, fashioned a lovely, easy going 2024 Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC from organic grapes (89 points; $22 for the 2022).
The famed Montecucco producer Collemasari has produced a creamier, gentler 2024 bottling of Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC, “Melacce.” Made from organic grapes and weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated-alcohol, it still invigorates the palate with mouth-cleansing acidity (91 pts.; $19 for the 2023).
Unsurprisingly, Castello di Volpaia, a top Tuscan producer based in Radda, has fashioned a crowd-pleasing 2024 Vermentino, “Prelius,” made from organic grapes and combining a touch of creaminess with an attractive and subtle white pepper-like spiciness. This bright and refreshing Vermentino will be a hit as an aperitivo or to accompany steamed clams or other simple seafood (91 pts.; $23 for the 2023).
The 2024 Vermentino from Tenuta Sassoregale, an estate that’s part of the Santa Margherita group, blossoms in the glass delivering subtle and engaging citrus notes accented by a touch of saline-like acidity (90pts.; $18 for the 2023).
The Cecchi family, another of Tuscany’s top producers, has long made a Maremma Vermentino from their Val delle Rose estate in Castellina in Chianti. Their fresh and light-bodied 2023 “Litorale” bottling, made from organic grapes, displays a refined profile accented by a delicate pinch of white pepper-like spice. Long and uplifting, it’s a fine choice for current drinking this summer (92 pts.; $20).
Organic since 2021, Rocca di Montemassi produced a lively 2023 Maremma Vermentino under their “Calasole” label. They seamlessly combined a bit of creaminess, a hint of peppery spice, and brisk saline-infused acidity to create an easy to embrace Vermentino. And look at the price! (91 pts.; $14 for the 2022).
Camigliano, a top Brunello producer, opts to use the Toscana IGT designation for their Vermentino “Gamal” bottling. Made from organic grapes, this Vermentino gains substance from their judicious use of battonage (stirring the lees), which extracts body from the expired yeast cells. A touch of spice and enlivening acidity add balance and support. Camigliano’s Brunello is widely distributed in the U.S., so why their importer has opted not to bring in this vibrant Vermentino is beyond me (92 pts.).
To get an idea of the heights of the Maremma Toscana Vermentino Superiore DOC category, consumers should search for ones from Castello di Volpaia and the aforementioned “Belgaurdo V.” Volpaia’s dazzling 2023 “Castelprile,” made from organic grapes, combines a lush, creamy texture buttressed by a firm spine of racy acidity. Those who select wines by alcohol level should not be put off by the 14.5 percent stated on this bottle because it simply doesn’t show when the wine is tasted. (95 pts., $31).
Giovanni Mazzei, Francesco’s nephew, explains that their “Belguardo V” is a work in progress, an “ongoing project, not a final step.” The project was started in the early 2000s with a vision to make an upscale Vermentino from selected grapes. Over the decades, they’ve experimented with lees aging, a longer maceration of four to six months (common with “orange wines”), and aging in amphorae and acacia barrels. Tasted in February of 2024, the 2021 and 2022 Belguardo V were both suave and sophisticated, tightly-wound young wines. The 2021, with an extra year of bottle age, showed a touch more complexity but was still tight and youthful (95 pts.; $62). The 2022 was tightly coiled like a spring, ready to explode with time (94 pts.). Both had an alluring texture enhanced by a fresh, citrus zing and a spicey, white pepper-like bite. The most eye-opening wine was the aromatic and stunning 2013 “Codice V” (Belguardo’s previous name), displaying maturity, depth, and freshness. (96 pts.; n/a).
The takeaway message here is that Vermentino, at least when planted in Maremma and transformed to wine by talented and committed producers, can make exciting wines that evolve with age. Extended skin contact, done judiciously, can add a layer of complexity.
Vermentino Superiore renditions, in general, show another face of Vermentino, that of a wine that can develop like other great whites by contrast to Vermentino’s more common profile as a crisp, refreshing white suitable for summertime sipping.
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E-mail me your thoughts about Vermentino in general or Tuscan Vermentino in particular at [email protected] and follow me on Instagram @MichaelApstein
April 30, 2025