($55): If your idea of California Chardonnay is heavy and buttery, this graceful one with surprise you. Restrained, weighing in at a modest, 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, it nonetheless makes a prominent presence. Despite its apparent lack of power, there’s plenty going on here. A touch of spicy oak acts as a condiment, not the main event. Its charms blossom as it sits on the palate. A citrus-tinged finish amplifies its considerable appeal.
92 Michael Apstein May 2, 2023