($26, Vineyard Brands): Joost de Willebois, a Dutch financier, knows a business opportunity when he sees it. In 2004, he found a small Loire winery owned by someone who had no successor and he bought it with the idea of transforming it into something larger. J. de Villebois now makes a bevy of wines from Sauvignon Blanc, including this Sancerre and a Pouilly-Fumé (also reviewed this week.) Lovely by itself, this Sancerre becomes more fascinating for those of us who really want to understand the difference Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, which is made from the same grape, just grown across the river. This clean and bright Sancerre has energy and an attractive mouth-cleansing bite. Not aggressive, it awakens the palate.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2020