($35, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of Chianti’s traditional and best producers, hits the bullseye again with this Riserva. The grapes come from a single vineyard that they think produces superior fruit. After tasting it, I certainly agree there’s something special going on. A blend of Sangiovese (90%), and equal parts of Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo, delivers a glorious combination of fruit flavors without being fruity. Though still youthful and tight, it’s balanced and the not-just-fruit character is center stage. Not a bombastic wine, this Riserva should turn out beautifully in another five years. If you’re tempted by it now — and you will be — open it several hours in advance and decant it.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2020