($31):  It’s hard to understand how one producer can master so many different wines.  But Grgich Hills does.  Their Chardonnays are iconic, certainly among California’s best.  Their Cabernet Sauvignons are thrilling and develop wonderfully with bottle age.  Even their Zinfandel charms.  This Sauvignon Blanc, presumably labeled Fumé Blanc to evoke an image of Pouilly Fumé, the Loire Valley wine made from the same grape, is both snappy and seductive.  It simultaneously tingles and caresses the palate.  Long and lively, it’s a delight to drink — with most anything.  Anyone who doubts that Sauvignon Blanc can make great wine should try this one.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 19, 2018