($36): It’s no secret that Spottswoode makes sensational Cabernet Sauvignon. This excellent and stylish Sauvignon Blanc shows they are not a one-horse show. The wine also reminds us to trust the producer rather than relying solely on the AVA (appellation). Since 85 percent of the grapes did not come from one area (Sonoma County 60 percent with the remainder from Napa County), they were obligated to use the broader — and less prestigious — appellation, California. Using estate (their own) and purchased fruit, they have fashioned a racy and full-bodied Bordeaux-like sophisticated white wine. Beautifully balanced, it has good density and a pleasing pungency. You could savor its complexity by drinking it as an aperitif, but frankly its stature shows best with chicken breasts in a light cream sauce. Don’t miss this sensational wine. It redefines California Sauvignon Blanc. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2018