($90): This generous Cabernet Sauvignon is more evidence — not that it was needed — that Grgich Hills is a fabulously talented producer and that Napa Valley is a great place for Cabernet. The 2013 Grgich Hills’ Cabernet is muscular, but more impressively, it has finesse. Like a well-honed gymnast, it dazzles with power and grace. Fine, youthful tannins support dark fruit and tar-like minerality. Despite all of that, it’s the elegance and its length that you remember. Enjoyable now, especially with a hearty steak, it should develop beautifully with a decade of bottle age, judging from its balance and my experience with Grgich Hills’ previous vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2018