($185): There’s no question that Grgich Hills’ Yountville Selection Cabernet ranks with California’s greatest red wines.  Once again, the winemaking team at Grgich Hills manages to convey great power without overdoing anything.  Indeed, the marvel of this wine is its elegance, which is in keeping with the Grgich Hills style.  Not as powerful or boisterous as some comparable Napa Valley wines, Grgich Hills seemingly has reduced the volume so that the notes are all the clearer and subtleties come through.  It grows in the glass, becoming explosive after an hour or so, while still remaining fresh and vibrant.  You do not tire of tasting — or drinking — this wine.  It’s one to savor, so serve it with something simple — such as grilled steak — to allow the wine to be the center of attention.
96 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2015