($25): Beckman has a knack for making excellent wines, such as this one, from traditional Rhône grapes. Unlike many California rosés, this one is truly dry, actually with a touch of pleasant bitterness in the finish that complements and amplifies the spicy wild strawberry-like flavors. Good acidity keeps it bright and lively throughout a meal. This is a serious wine — not to be mistaken for your usual quaffable rosé — that would go well with a hearty salad, grilled salmon or even tuna because it has some “oomph” to it.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 16, 2015