($130, Palm Bay International): Gran Selezione, a category that debuted only in 2014, is intended to be for Chianti Classico of exceptional character. For a wine to receive that designation it must come from estate grapes (no purchased fruit), be aged even longer than a Chianti Classico Riserva and pass a tasting panel. In practice, it should be the estate’s best wine from the Chianti Classico DOCG. Rocca delle Macìe bottled two Gran Selezione in 2010, this one from Sangiovese (90%) and Canaiolo grown in a single vineyard on their estate in Macìe and another one, Riserva di Fizzano, that contains a little Merlot in the blend. The Sergio Zingarelli Gran Selezione is stunning with an engaging amalgam of herbal and fruity notes that imparts a welcome savory streak. Aged briefly in small French oak barrels, it is exceptionally polished and well balanced without any overt oakiness that has the potential to detract from its inherent character. It is a study in power and elegance, striking a balance between the so-called “modern” and traditional Chianti Classico. Remarkably enjoyable now with a simply grilled steak to allow its complexity to show, its harmony suggests it will develop beautifully over this decade.
94 Michael Apstein May 12, 2015