($42): Comparing Grgich Hills Estate’s 2012 Chardonnay with their 2013 Sauvignon Blanc puts the limitation of a numerical scoring system for rating wines into sharp relief.  Since I scored the Sauvignon Blanc slightly higher than their Chardonnay that must mean that I think it’s a better wine, right?  Well, not exactly.  In the category of Sauvignon Blanc, Grgich’s 2013 is exceptional and surprising because they are not known for Sauvignon Blanc and because a Sauvignon Blanc with that much character is rare.  Grgich’s 2012 Chardonnay, which is also exceptional, is less surprising because Grgich has been making stellar Chardonnay since the early 1970s and because there are many more exceptional Chardonnays on the market than there are Sauvignon Blanc.  The Grgich Hills Estate 2012 Chardonnay is stunning because, as always with their wines, it’s balanced — simultaneously rich, vibrant and long.  There’s a subtle hint of toasty oak, maybe a bit of smokiness, but nothing that rattles the palate.  Thankfully, it’s not an opulent blockbuster.  Rather this Chardonnay has the elegance and finesse that are the hallmarks of the wines from Grgich Hills Estate.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014