($70, Palm Bay International):  Colombo is one of the best producers of Cornas, an appellation in the northern Rhône which lacks the popularity of Côte Rôtie or Hermitage, but which like those, uses the Syrah grape.  He makes a variety of Cornas from different vineyards that vary in exposure and vine age.  The thread that links them is an extraordinary, especially for Cornas, class and refinement.  Les Ruchets comes from 90-year old vines planted on a steep 38-degree granite slope.  It is a big wine, yet remarkably polished, and, dare I say, elegant (not a word often used to describe Cornas).  There’s a spicy–almost peppery–element to its minerality.  You can feel the granite.  Although his wines develop beautifully, this one is remarkably approachable now, especially with hearty fare. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011