($48):  Under the masterful leadership of Véronique Drouhin, the wines from the Domaine Drouhin Oregon (a.k.a. DDO) has gotten better and better since their first vintage, 1988.  Part of the credit goes to time.  The vines are older and now over 90% of the grapes for the Pinot Noir come from their vineyards.   But a lot of the credit goes to Véronique who has learned how the vineyards perform year after year and who, importantly, never succumbed to the current trend of making “big” ripe Pinot Noir.  She has stood steadfast in her desire to capture the unique ability of Pinot Noir to deliver flavor without weight and not make a big bold “Pinot Syrah”-style of wine.  The DDO 2008 Pinot Noir has grace and delicacy along with an alluring combination of fresh red fruit and savory leafy nuances.  The panoply of flavors extends into an amazingly long finish.  Try it the next time you’re having grilled or broiled salmon. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2011