($20, Wilson Daniels):  Kumeu River is one of the best, if not the best, Chardonnay producers in New Zealand.  They make a stunning array of Chardonnays that redefines what can be done with that varietal in the New World.  They have three levels of Chardonnay that they have modeled on the Burgundy hierarchy of village wine, premier cru and grand cru.  This one, their least expensive, comes from vineyards in the Auckland area.  Their Estate Chardonnay is a blend from their vineyards, and at the top of their pyramid sits a variety of single vineyard Chardonnays.  Similar to other great producers, Kumeu River takes care to be sure that this wine, their least prestigious one, still has grace and balance.  It has subtle oak influences–a hint of creaminess–that harmonize with the delicate apple and melon flavors.  Great acidity holds it all together and invigorates the palate.  It’s a great $20 Chardonnay. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 14, 2010