($45, Fine Estates from Spain):  Remelluri, a star producer in the region, claims to be the oldest and first estate to bottle Rioja.  A typical Rioja blend of mostly (80%) Tempranillo, with small amounts of Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo, this wine comes entirely from the estate’s vineyards.  Despite considerable aging in new French oak barrels, which might suggest an “international” style, the wine classically proportioned and retains a clear Rioja identity.  It walks a fine line between traditional and “modern,” with an attractive hint of chocolate intertwined with red fruit flavors and earthy nuances.  Quite polished, it would make a fine choice for current drinking, but its beautiful structure and balance suggests even more complexity will emerge with another few years in the cellar. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 6, 2010