($34, Martine’s Wines, Inc.):  Château Rayas is on everybody’s short list of the top producers in the southern Rhône.  They are best known for their exquisite Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but you can get a glimmer of their grandeur with this Côtes du Rhône.  Certainly one of the most expensive wines from that appellation, it is also one of the most expressive and substantial ones.  It’s a beautifully balanced flavor array of spice, herbs and red fruits.  Not an overdone fruit bomb, it has complexity and length, which explains why it’s a terrific wine.  Instead of thinking of it as an expensive Côtes du Rhône, think of it as a bargain Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010